
01-28-2005, 01:21 PM
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Senior Member
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Real Name: Harry
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 8,925
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RE: some pics of the stuff on
I installed a RE 1600 adjustable trackbar a while back. What a mistake
Good results but now the heim joint at the frame end is already shot. It's making a popping noise when I turn.
Dilemma:
I can replace the joint easily enough, and they don't break the bank, BUT..
I don't want to keep replacing them. The factory mount has been drilled out to 5/8" to accept the larger RE unit so going back to stock or getting an adjustable with a stock type bushing is a no-go.
If I want to get regular bushings in ther, I'll have to spend another $200+ and get Rusty's with the heavy dut mount. This will no question be the last heim joint I put on a daily driver. It didn't last but maybe a hair over 10K miles.
I'm pretty ****ed off I didn't use a little foresight and get something other than a heim joint type trackbar.
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01-28-2005, 02:12 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Olean, NY
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could you weld plates back over the 5/8 holes and drill stock size holes in?
__________________
93 YJ 4.0
Spring Over, 33x12.50 Mastercraft Courser M/T, High Flow Exhaust, Diamondplate Rear Bumper, Trimmed Flares, 6\" spotters
We, the Sovereign People of the Universe, wish to live in peace. We live among you, but we are not of you.
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01-28-2005, 02:39 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Southern Illinois
Posts: 8,676
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The upper track bar mount bolts to the unibody, it could be replaced if you wanted to go back to stock.
At your lift height, I would have just redrilled the lower hole for the front track bar and been done. It gets redrilled .5" to .75" toward the driver's side for 3" to 5" or so of lift. PLenty of metal there to do it safe.
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01-28-2005, 05:05 PM
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Senior Member
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Real Name: Harry
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 8,925
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Well Bounty I have nearly 4.5" of lift. I tried it, drilled a hole as close to the end as I could and it was too far off. Hence the adjustable trackbar. I could get a new stock mount and get rustys "regular" adjustable. I guess I'll have to look for one on Naxja or price one from the stealership.
Snitty - that would work if I knew how to weld
Maybe someday I'll somehow find the time to learn... I sure would love fabbing my own stuff.
I guess for the short term (and cheap route) I'll get another end/joint for the RE bar. I just spent $$ on LCA's, a carb for the YJ, and an alignment. No fun money for a while now.
Thanks for the ideas.. eventually I'll get rid of that heim joint. I understand they offer great articulation but damn 10K miles???
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01-28-2005, 11:47 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Oakdale Ca.
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Re: RE: 2.5L question
I dont know what type of heim joint the lift already uses but there are permanate lubed heim joints that are not suppossed to get loose. I cant remember for sure but I beleive the were teflon coated and were ordered thru this company. www.mscdirect.com. I use them in the sway bar discos I fabbed and I have not had a problem.
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94ZJ 4.0 NP231, 4\" front to rear coil swap, discos, roof rack, rockers, fipk
97ZJ 4.0 NP242,\"wifes\" all still tweetyfied but with 2\"BB, 31\'s, rockers
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01-29-2005, 06:26 AM
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Senior Member
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Real Name: Harry
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 8,925
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RE: might be getting a different Dana 44 now
Quote:
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Originally Posted by ROGLSTUBB
I dont know what type of heim joint the lift already uses but there are permanate lubed heim joints that are not suppossed to get loose. I cant remember for sure but I beleive the were teflon coated and were ordered thru this company. www.mscdirect.com. I use them in the sway bar discos I fabbed and I have not had a problem.
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I will definately check those out, thanks!
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