
12-06-2003, 11:04 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Maryland
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no defroster
so ya today it snowed about a good foot and i go out 2 shut my door and wham no shut...try again...no hsut so me and my dad went frankenstein on it and torched the lock to "warm" it up.This worked for a while so we lubricated the lock mechanism and all so i went home and wham no shut again!  da**it how do i fix it? i already pulled the panel off and greased everything so is the lock just freezing ro what someone help!
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12-06-2003, 11:19 PM
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Location: Leonia, NJ
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happened to my friends Volkswagen..we took apart the whole door and latching box thing and cleaned all the parts..put it back together nice and tight then baptized it in WD40 and grease. worked great after that.
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2000 XJ 5.5 RE lift. 33X12.5 swampers and other goodies
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12-07-2003, 12:35 AM
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Location: East Tennessee
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Be a real Jeeper and take them doors off, and enjoy the experince! hehehehe Tug
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12-07-2003, 01:29 AM
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Real Name: Harry
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 8,913
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Do yourself a favor and go down to your local walmart or auto parts place and try a can of lock de-icer.
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12-07-2003, 01:44 AM
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The frozen door latch syndrome is common here.
(See thermometer thingy below for "why.")
I would try drowning the door latching mechanism with WD-40. You have to get the water out of there, else the latch will just re-freeze on you.
Gadget
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12-07-2003, 09:09 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Wasaga Beach, Ontario,Canada
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First things first NEVER USE WD40 on locks it works great for a short time but it attracts dirt and gums it up worse. Pull the door off and bring it inside to warm up then after it nice and warm clean the lockand latch mechanism and make sure it is dry ,then use graphite lubricant (it is made for locks) and then put the door back on. this should solve your problem
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12-07-2003, 12:00 PM
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Perhaps I am misunderstanding phatyaspen's post?
I interpret his post as the latch is freezing up...nothing was mentioned about the key lock. I would agree that WD-40 should not be used in the key-lock, but I've never had a problems as a result of using WD-40 in a vehicle door latching mechanism.
As regards the key-lock, I agree -- use graphite.
Who knows? Experiences and opinions differ.
Gadget
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12-07-2003, 12:11 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Leonia, NJ
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problem is with graphite drys out the lock so ya need somthing to lube it after the graphite does its job.
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2000 XJ 5.5 RE lift. 33X12.5 swampers and other goodies
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12-07-2003, 03:38 PM
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Real Name: Harry
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Location: Pennsylvania
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Graphite is a dry lubricant. Anybody who has ever made a pinewood derby car for cub/boy scouts knows it does not need further lubrication.
Behold the dry graphite lubricated champion, "The Goose":

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12-07-2003, 04:05 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Boston, Ma
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that thing needs a lift and bigger tires.
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12-07-2003, 04:51 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 836
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Hey Twisted!!!
Very cool derby car!!! The Pinewood Derby was my favorite event during my Cubmaster days (late 70s - early 80s).
It was my habit during the race day weigh-in to ask each Cub what was used as a wheel-axle lubricant on his derby car. I got all sorts of answers: 3-IN-1 oil; graphite, both liquid and powder, kerosene, Wesson Oil, Lockease, everything under the sun. One Cubber told me he used Crisco!
The best answer, however, was from a Cub who told me in the presence of his Mother that he used a lot of her Oil of Olay. I thought his Mom was going to kill him right on the spot!
Gadget
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12-07-2003, 06:17 PM
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Real Name: Harry
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Location: Pennsylvania
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Thanks, Gadget. They only allow dry graphite now (at least at our pack). Well polished axles and perfectly round wheels are more crutial.
BostonJeep - Maybe we could do a offroad downhill event next year! Well, it might be a bit much to ask 7 year olds to build suspensions.
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