
08-10-2005, 06:08 PM
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RE: still on the hunt for a 4.0 TB
Hi everyone,
I've been having a problem with my Cherokee where axle fluid is slowly leaking out of the passenger side of my rear axle and getting all over the drum brake components (effectively lubricating the drum brake and making it useless).
In the past, I did replace the inner axle seal (not a fun job). This slowed down the leaking but never stopped it completely. If I remember correctly, isn't there an outer axle seal pressed on with the wheel bearing? Could this be bad and the reason why axle fluid is continuing to leak into my passenger-side drum? Or am I missing something here?
BTW, the axle in question is a DANA 35c
Thanks for any help,
-Nick 
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1988 Jeep Cherokee w/ 410,000+ miles. Now a 100% Electric Vehicle!
NO Gas, NO Emissions, NO Problem! -- http://www.DriveEV.com/
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08-10-2005, 09:03 PM
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Real Name: Joe Irvine
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there is a seal that goes in after the wheel bearing. I dont think there's more than one on the rear axle though. keep in mind, if the seal leaked once and you didn't replace the worn wheel bearing (the reason it wore out in the first place), it will wear out very quickly again. If you go to the trouble to pull the seal, do the bearing too.
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When I Die, Bury me in my JEEP. 'Cause it's never been in a hole it couldn't get out of!
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08-10-2005, 10:34 PM
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The outer seal is very easy to replace
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93 YJ 4.0
Spring Over, 33x12.50 Mastercraft Courser M/T, High Flow Exhaust, Diamondplate Rear Bumper, Trimmed Flares, 6\" spotters
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08-11-2005, 12:04 AM
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Hi,
Quote:
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Originally Posted by graewulf
there is a seal that goes in after the wheel bearing. I dont think there's more than one on the rear axle though. keep in mind, if the seal leaked once and you didn't replace the worn wheel bearing (the reason it wore out in the first place), it will wear out very quickly again. If you go to the trouble to pull the seal, do the bearing too.
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I'm pretty sure I remember there being two seals. The seal that I replaced in the past was pressed deep into the axle tube, about half way between the drum backing plate and the differential. It took a puller and slide hammer to remove the old one, and was a pain in the a$$ to install the new one. I believe this is the "inner" seal? But I also recall seeing a seal next to the wheel bearing when I removed the axle shaft from the axle tube. I guess this is the seal you're thinking of, and it is the one that I guess I need to change to try and stop the continued fluid leakage?
Thanks,
-Nick 
__________________
1988 Jeep Cherokee w/ 410,000+ miles. Now a 100% Electric Vehicle!
NO Gas, NO Emissions, NO Problem! -- http://www.DriveEV.com/
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08-11-2005, 12:11 AM
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Re: RE: Axle fluid leaking into rear brakes
Hi,
Quote:
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Originally Posted by Snitty
The outer seal is very easy to replace
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But do I have to remove the bearing in order to change the outer seal? If so, I'd imagine getting the bearing on and off will be a bit of work...
At any rate, I guess I just need to take the axle apart again and take a look... as trying to stop this *heavy* Cherokee with almost no help from the rear brakes is interesting
Thanks,
-Nick 
__________________
1988 Jeep Cherokee w/ 410,000+ miles. Now a 100% Electric Vehicle!
NO Gas, NO Emissions, NO Problem! -- http://www.DriveEV.com/
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08-11-2005, 12:57 AM
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RE: Lady in need of help... rear window replacement know how
Your '88 axle should be non c-clip so I'm guessing the bearings are pressed on the axleshafts. You'll have to have the bearings removed with a puller as the seal is likely between the bearing and wheel flange. Never messed with the non c-clip axles much, I'll have to take a look at the one I just pulled out of the MJ.
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08-11-2005, 02:24 AM
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While you're at it.. convert to electric brakes haha
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93 YJ 4.0
Spring Over, 33x12.50 Mastercraft Courser M/T, High Flow Exhaust, Diamondplate Rear Bumper, Trimmed Flares, 6\" spotters
We, the Sovereign People of the Universe, wish to live in peace. We live among you, but we are not of you.
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08-11-2005, 08:59 AM
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Real Name: Joe Irvine
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by XJNick
Hi,
Quote:
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Originally Posted by Snitty
The outer seal is very easy to replace
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But do I have to remove the bearing in order to change the outer seal? If so, I'd imagine getting the bearing on and off will be a bit of work...
At any rate, I guess I just need to take the axle apart again and take a look... as trying to stop this *heavy* Cherokee with almost no help from the rear brakes is interesting
Thanks,
-Nick 
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Doesn't matter if the bearing has to be removed to change the seal or not. you want to change the bearing at the same time or you will be doing another seal before very long.
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When I Die, Bury me in my JEEP. 'Cause it's never been in a hole it couldn't get out of!
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08-11-2005, 02:08 PM
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Real Name: Matt Pyle
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Location: Lacey, Washington
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Snitty
While you're at it.. convert to electric brakes haha
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Now that would be really cool  .
Actually, it'd be cool until your battery died while driving down the road and then you'd have no brakes 
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08-13-2005, 09:05 PM
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Hi,
Quote:
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Originally Posted by Bounty__Hunter
Your '88 axle should be non c-clip so I'm guessing the bearings are pressed on the axleshafts. You'll have to have the bearings removed with a puller as the seal is likely between the bearing and wheel flange.
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Okay, that's what I thought I remember it being like. If I get some time tomorrow, I'll take it apart and see what gives
Quote:
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Originally Posted by Snitty
While you're at it.. convert to electric brakes haha
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As far as I know you cannot legally use electric brakes as the main system for braking on a vehicle. The only recent vehicle I've heard of the used electric brakes was GM's EV1 (their attempt at an electric vehicle -- they are now all crushed in the Arizona desert  ). Even so, GM had to get special permission to be able to use electric brakes on the EV1.
Quote:
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Originally Posted by 88Wrangles
Actually, it'd be cool until your battery died while driving down the road and then you'd have no brakes :shocked:
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Yes, but this is an absurd scenario. Batteries which are operating normally *don't* just die without warning... their voltage gradually runs down proportional to their State of charge (SOC). As they run down you'll have plenty of warning before they have reached the point where they cannot provide enough power to "get the job done". The only possible way a battery can suddenly fail to produce any power would be due to physical abuse, like if you broke off a terminal or severly punctured it, perhaps.
Now, I realize that electric brakes could complately fail due to _other_ causes... and this is perhaps why they are usually used with another type of braking system for redundency. For example, although GM's EV1 had electric brakes, they were only for the rear brakes. The front still had a form of hydraulic brakes, for added redundency and thus safety :wink:
Thanks,
-Nick 
__________________
1988 Jeep Cherokee w/ 410,000+ miles. Now a 100% Electric Vehicle!
NO Gas, NO Emissions, NO Problem! -- http://www.DriveEV.com/
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08-14-2005, 09:22 AM
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one pieceaxle help
Just as a guess but did you happen to look at the axle shaft when you replaced the seal. If the old seal wore a groove in the shaft it won't seal right. This could cause a slight leak even with a brand new seal.
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08-15-2005, 01:06 AM
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College and a pseudo-farewell?
Hi,
Quote:
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Originally Posted by derff96963
Just as a guess but did you happen to look at the axle shaft when you replaced the seal. If the old seal wore a groove in the shaft it won't seal right. This could cause a slight leak even with a brand new seal.
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That is something I had though of in the past, but am trying hard to ignore because it seems to me that it'd be a real pain to fix... :?
Thanks,
-Nick 
__________________
1988 Jeep Cherokee w/ 410,000+ miles. Now a 100% Electric Vehicle!
NO Gas, NO Emissions, NO Problem! -- http://www.DriveEV.com/
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08-15-2005, 03:19 AM
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Re: RE: Re: RE: Stalls ,no spark
Nah, used axles are plentiful and cheap. I've got a non c-clip D35 sitting in the garage, I'd be willing to part it out and ship you one or both axleshafts should you need/want them.
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