Problems with 96 grand cherokee Laredo. Engine issue

Bonzi

New member
Hi we have a 96 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 2wd 4.0L. We have been chasing problems on this thing non stop. It had a problem with dying randomly we have changed the fuel pump, fuel filter, crankshaft position sensor, distributor, and it seems to have fixed that problem after all that just the other day we lost an idler bearing and the belt broke. We got that fixed. But now the belt screeches pretty bad when first starting, but goes away after a short while, and will sometimes screech when turning the car with the new belt but the biggest problem is out of nowhere it will really screech bad randomly and drags the altenator down to the point of check gauges starts flashing and when you turn it off it will not restart. It will crank but no fire. We are tearing our hair out with this thing and can't figure it out. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.
 

I would say to check how tight the belt is.

the zj grand chrokee have a well known issue with the ecu. its right in front of the passenger, but in the engine bay. the connections become not good and causes the jeep to randomly die and then have a hard time starting and not starting, period. next time it happens, have someone push on the plug, at the ecu, while hthe other person turns the key. sometimes this will cause the connection to work and start the jeep. if so, start looking on ebay for a replacement ecu, or from a remanufacture shop.
 
Agree with all the above .
hoping that one of the items replaced was the cause and you don't see any more symptoms .
also , the PCM used on 1996 and later Cherokee , grand Cherokee and Wrangler with the three angle plug harness design is prone to problems and noted for it . The internal connectors loosen where they are soldered to the printed curcuit boards . Whether that be due vibration or excessive pressure upon disconnecting and reconnecting , that has always been a question .
as far as the serpentine belt , yes , take a good look at the tension it currently has on it .
granted , you've got a new belt and tensioner installed . Replacement parts quality always seems to be questionable at time . But the tensioner may not be the cause . First take look at how the belt is routed on all pulleys in the event that removal has been decided . Many have been through this . The sticker under the hood is missing and no one has a proper diagram for that engine and more in particular , that model year . Make your own diagram . Save your own sanity .
i suggest the belt be removed and inspect the belt carefully . I realize it's new but there is a problem . if the belt shows any signs of damage , inspection of all the pullys and accessories the belt drives will be necessary . Been through this on my dads 99' GC 4.7 liter . In his case , it was an alternator pully with some rough splines damaging the belt .
Not only will you need to examine the spline surfaces AND the smooth surfaces where the back of the belt rides ( I.E. , water pumps ) bit you want to be sure the accessory itself isn't causing drag . Most of the time this occurs in my experience , it's either a tensioner , a pully or an accessory.
by accessories , I mean alternators , powers steering pumps , a/c compressors , water pumps or on earlier vehicles , emissions pumps . Any belt drive item that has drag or the potential to momentarily lock up can and will cause this " squealing " to happen . Loose belts can cause this too so we must be sure as SuperJ posted to check our belt tension .
So , first check belt tension as it is in its current assembly . Run it if you'd like .
check the belt surfaces next . It's best to remove the belt since it's difficult to see the entire belt while on the engine . It's a new belt so any damage will be seen immediately .
next , roll all accessory pullys and note their movement . Do they drag , wobble , visible damage , etc. . Just because a belt and tensioner was replaced , dosen't mean there wasn't more to fix.
 
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