Front Axel Vacuum Motor

[jmartin]

First of all, the vacuum 'motor' is nothing more than a double acting diaphram - simple stuff. I got into this due to the plastic vacuum lines getting melted by the exhaust pipe & by just falling apart from age. I was able to salvage the setup by inserting the old vacuum lines inside small plastic tubes used in a drip irrigation system. A little silicone sealed the whole thing up. It goes without saying that the lines are routed away from the ezhaust pipe - doesn't it?
If I had to replace the vacuum arrangement (I was told this is a $200.00 item - yeah right!). I'd remove the 'motor', cut the can off, hook up a Telex cable (top quality push/pull) to the 'motor' rod, add a pivot point, hook up the other end of the cable under the dash & never again worry about the vacuum crap.

[Bounty__Hunter]

Sounds like you know your way around the vacuum disconnect very well. I kept my vacuum, not too hard to troubleshoot, but installed a manual vacuum switch in the dash. I can now engage and disengage the pass. side axle shaft at will. I've got the front diff welded (Lincoln Locker) and this makes turning in 3wd much easier. A poor-mans selectable locker of sorts.

I was wheelin Saturday and noticed the axle not engaging. Quick check of the two ports at the front axle proved I had no vacuum. Corroded lines near the battery. 5min fix with rubber hose and electrical tape and I again had true 4wd.

I may install a cable someday, but not the posilok for $200. I'm in no hurry as this quadratrac switch works great.

	Locking Differential Provides even more traction than a limited-slip differential by “locking” the axle shafts together when the driver wants to do it. Locking differentials do not allow for wheel-speed differences and must not be used on dry, paved roads.

[Tug-n-pull]

Go here for a great hoe made fix for this problem. Works great! tug

http://home.earthlink.net/~stevenschreiber/cabledis.htm