Alright, my wife's "D" stamped (2,72 open ) geared AMC 20 is leaking all over her garage, and it's coming out of the yoke, so how do I do this? Take the driveshaft out, take the nut off, put the seal in, put the nut back on.... can't be that easy. Any trick to getting the nut off? I don't have a torque wrench so how tight do I put it back on? What about the fluid? I don't know how much has leaked out and I don't know how much is in there so I don't think I wan't to guess 90W and top it off if that wouldn't mix well with what's in there now. Any tips on this job? Thanks!
rear pinion seal
- Thread starter wm69
- Start date
Do you really want to pay somebody to work on an open 2.73:1 geared differential? I wouldn't.
Don't jack the vehicle up, but make sure it can't roll after the nut is removed!!! Drop the shaft, remove the nut, replace the seal, say a little prayer, replace the nut, reinstall the shaft and forget about it.
Don't jack the vehicle up, but make sure it can't roll after the nut is removed!!! Drop the shaft, remove the nut, replace the seal, say a little prayer, replace the nut, reinstall the shaft and forget about it.
yeah, maybe I should run it dry and use that as an excuse to get a dana 44! Anyhow, looking at my chiltons manual (which says my 85 CJ7's have hydralic clutches; leads me to doubt anything I see there), I need a puller to get the yoke off, a tool # 280232 (something like that) to get the seal out, another # tool to get the new seal in, torque the nut to so many pounds yada yada yada. I'm basically doing preventative maint as the wife is trying to find a reason to make me sell one of the jeeps and if the rear goes the wife won't rest till the jeep goes. what about the fluid? Do I need to take the diff cover off and refill, or can I chance topping off with 90W?
It has a crush seal so if you over tighten it it will fry the bearing pretty quick (I have heard that anyway.) The books I have read say to use an inch lb torque rench check the amount it takes to turn then remove nut replace seal then when you are putting the nut on you tighten a little then check the amount it takes to rotate with the inch lbs wrench then tighten a little more until it takes a little more to turn I think like 5 inch lbs more. You can pick up an inch lbs torque wrench at autozone for about $10. II cant remember what the axle takes. on mine between the axles, t-case, and trans they start at 75w90, 80w90, and 85w90, I did not want to buy all of those so I split the differance and went with 80w90.
By the way those are some good looking jeeps!
By the way those are some good looking jeeps!
4.0L XJ Mileage ability
Thanks, I think I might invest in a torque wrench as it will be something I'll use more down the road. The scrambler is my dad's jeep. He bought it new in 84 and it now has a little under 3500 miles on it. STill looks and smells new on the inside, outside has a couple dings from rocks thrown up by the tires, but otherwise looks new too. T176, 258, heavy duty electrical and suspension, but he got a "DD" 2.72 trac lock rear (wish he'd gotten 3.54's). No stereo (factory delete plate) or other "nicetys". He ordered it to hunt in and just doesn't hunt much anymore. It sits in the garage and he drives it to the farm about once every 6 weeks to "exercise it" and keep the seals from drying out. The CJ I bought 10 years ago and have completely redone (it was nice when I got it but 10 years of wheelin took it's toll). I only use it for a trail rig now. I bought another jeep (not pictured) and that's the one I need a pinion seal for.... (now you see why the wife is hinting to get rid of a jeep) :lol:
Thanks, I think I might invest in a torque wrench as it will be something I'll use more down the road. The scrambler is my dad's jeep. He bought it new in 84 and it now has a little under 3500 miles on it. STill looks and smells new on the inside, outside has a couple dings from rocks thrown up by the tires, but otherwise looks new too. T176, 258, heavy duty electrical and suspension, but he got a "DD" 2.72 trac lock rear (wish he'd gotten 3.54's). No stereo (factory delete plate) or other "nicetys". He ordered it to hunt in and just doesn't hunt much anymore. It sits in the garage and he drives it to the farm about once every 6 weeks to "exercise it" and keep the seals from drying out. The CJ I bought 10 years ago and have completely redone (it was nice when I got it but 10 years of wheelin took it's toll). I only use it for a trail rig now. I bought another jeep (not pictured) and that's the one I need a pinion seal for.... (now you see why the wife is hinting to get rid of a jeep) :lol:
In my manual it said that the semi floating axle needed it. If it doesn't great, torque it down and go. I did mine with it off of the jeep before I installed my new axle. It was a pain because there was nothing to hold the axle from spinning. On the vehicle should be much eisier.
redrooster
New member
Use the Autozone Loan a tool program or get a Harbor Freight torque wrench.
Chock the Jeep, drop the shaft, loosen the nut (probably need impact or long cheater pipe), pull the yoke (may require a puller, BFH or even use the winch cable run under the Jeep), pull the seal. You may need a seal puller but usually a screwdriver will do it. But the new seal on tapping it in evenly all the way around. Lube the seal surface with oil and replace the yoke. Tighten the nut back to whatever ft-lbs the Chilton book says. Put the shaft back on.
If you have had it in deep water then you need to drop the cover and drain it. If not then just top it off and run it.
Chock the Jeep, drop the shaft, loosen the nut (probably need impact or long cheater pipe), pull the yoke (may require a puller, BFH or even use the winch cable run under the Jeep), pull the seal. You may need a seal puller but usually a screwdriver will do it. But the new seal on tapping it in evenly all the way around. Lube the seal surface with oil and replace the yoke. Tighten the nut back to whatever ft-lbs the Chilton book says. Put the shaft back on.
If you have had it in deep water then you need to drop the cover and drain it. If not then just top it off and run it.
OH BOY here we go! I got under the jeep today and after looking at it decided I would go ahead and take the diff cover off, flush it, reseal it, and then if it is still leaking enough (lube appears to be coming both from the pinion seal and the bottom of the pumpkin) I can just top it off until I get the nerve to try the pinion seal. So I get my 3/8" allen wrench that I bought to take the plug out on my other jeep a couple years back. I pushed on it a little and it didn't grab very well. I looked a little closer and this is a torx head fill plug and apparently someone else tried to get it out with an allen wrench too cause it's damn near stripped out. There is some grab left, and I'm hoping I can get the proper torx head and try again this weekend. Anything I can do to make this thing easier to get out (Torch, beat on it with BFH etc). Man, all my projects go like this......
Bounty__Hunter
Super Moderator
avyoung is right about the in/lb torque wrench, that's the correct method on axles with crush sleeves like the AMC20 and D35. And it IS the AMC20 and not a Dana20, the D20 is a transfer case. The AMC20 does not use c-clips.
LVRockCrawler
New member
jealous.... cj8 w/3500 miles!!! damn!!!!
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