Got the lift on

[hoobness]

I just finished the lift install in my rusty 87 YJ. Well, almost Still need to figure out a solution to a few things... Like the stuck rear steel line > flex brake hose. Brake line nut is rounded, probably going to have to repace the whole steel brake line. And the crossmember that suddenly shifted half an inch, when I undid it??? Oh yea one of those bolts that hold on the C.member is shot(spinning) gonna have to cut that one... and run with 5 supports instead of 6. Cant forget I need to drill out the new track bar bracket hole up front to a half an inch. That has proven to be a challenge -went and bought a new drill for this one. And lastly the drop pitman arm. However I cant find a socket big enough to fit - without moving up to a 3/4" drive - but then Ill have a huge socket and 3/4' drive breaker bar that i might use one more time if Im lucky... What a pain in th *$$.

BUT, after getting the rear wheels on and seeing it "just about complete" Man, it looks sweet.

About the lift kit I purchased... YJ 4" Rubicon Express lift.

The front went smoothly, only setbacks were from the jeep (cant get stuff off...etc)

The rear however, took me 20 hours. Yes alot of the time spent was from having to disassemble a jeep driven in New England for 18 years. Even my impact wrench had a hard time. But, just when I was relieved I had started on the reassembly, I found that I had to do some fabricating of the new pieces that were supposed to fit. The centerpins were too fat, had to get out the dremel an take a mm off all the way around each of them, one of the springs seemed to have a slight twist in it, took forever to find that, after fighting it for a while. I ended up figuring a way to force it in to the frame mount Im assuming it will bend its way back eventually after supporting 1/4 of the jeep. And one of the spring eye metal sleeves that the bolt slides through was too long by a visible 1/8". Had to cut the end off.

Anyway, i know Im not paying for a smooth install, Im paying for the quality of the kit off the road.

Ill post pics when its drivable.

	Track bar A track bar is a component of a car suspension system that provides lateral location of the axle. While the purpose of the rear suspension of an automobile is to allow the wheels to move vertically with respect to the body, it is undesirable to allow them to move forward and backwards, or from side to side. It is this latter movement that the track bar is designed to prevent. It is a simple device, consisting of a rigid bar running sideways in the same plane as the rear axle, connecting one end of the axle to the car body or chassis on the opposite side of the vehicle. The bar is attached on either end with pivots that permit it to swivel upwards and downwards only, so that the axle is, in turn, allowed to move in the vertical plane only.

[DerekC]

wow 20 hours! I thought my 4 hour CJ lift was slow to go on1
-D-

[west747]

it took me three days to put on my first lift kit...mostly cause every bolt was rusted and had to be cut off..lol

[TwistedCopper]

Yeah don't feel bad, my first one took forever too! No air tools or impact guns, just regular hand tools and my driveway. It was a workout with those rusty old '92 YJ bolts but I got it done and so will you. Best of luck

One work of advice: After you get done everything, loosen the two nuts under the transfer case skid plate then drive around the block easily. This will allow your transfer case/driveline to adjust to the transfer case drop and lift. After a short drive tighten up and carry on! It will help avoid driveline vibes.

And also don't forget a front end alignment

	Transfer Case Mounted behind and driven by the vehicle transmission, the transfer case transmits power to the front and rear driveshafts in 4WD Jeep vehicles and offers high and low range.

[Junkpile]

Oh man, the first IFS lift I did took WELL over 20 hours. The bad part is that there were two other guys working on it, and we were doing it in the shop.....

Rusty 86 Toyotas apparently don't like 4" Trailmaster lifts.

The same Yota took two of us like 10 hours to put on the body lift.

[hoobness]

just about done, had to reroute the rear brake line after it kept snapping pver and over. Finally I bought a foot more of steel line and mounted it jut below the old mount. Now Im fitghting the exhaust, got a pacesetter header, new cat, and cat-back, its a fighter alright. Every step of the way,

I still cant get the track bar fully attached. I called RE, they said it was a tight fit to the new bracket. Told me to have one guy with the bolt down there trying to slide it through, while the other guy pushes the car( and trackbar) over. That didnt work. I loosened up the braket to axle nut enough to get the trackbar bolt through, but the trackbar still wont go on all the way. The bracket is on solid now and the trackbar is also semi-attached, yet it still has to be tightened another 1/4" or so. Heres how tight this fit is: I had a 3 ft pole attached to a breaker bar and the bolt barely turns - the socket slides off, kinda rounding the top of the bolt abit - so I quit. I dont know what to do?? Its only supposed to be toqued at 75'/lbs. With a 3 ft pole its probably at around 300+!!

Any advice?

	Track bar A track bar is a component of a car suspension system that provides lateral location of the axle. While the purpose of the rear suspension of an automobile is to allow the wheels to move vertically with respect to the body, it is undesirable to allow them to move forward and backwards, or from side to side. It is this latter movement that the track bar is designed to prevent. It is a simple device, consisting of a rigid bar running sideways in the same plane as the rear axle, connecting one end of the axle to the car body or chassis on the opposite side of the vehicle. The bar is attached on either end with pivots that permit it to swivel upwards and downwards only, so that the axle is, in turn, allowed to move in the vertical plane only.