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Old 05-09-2005, 10:14 AM
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North and South

Hey there everybody, I'm having a problem. The lock cylinder in my steering column is screwed up pretty bad. I can't even get the key to turn over. This is such a dumb problem to keep me from driving my Jeep! Anyway, I got the wheel off with a homemade puller , Then was able to get the lockplate off with another homemade device. I got the turn signal switch out and was feeling great about myself until I got up to this point. I can't get the lock cylinder out! My book says to stick a screwdriver through the hole next to the turn signal mounting boss to release the retaining pin. . . Should the cylinder pull out of the column? I've stuck the screwdriver in every hole and wiggled the cylinder every which way and I just can't get the thing out. Please help me. Anything would be appreciated, thanks.
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1980 CJ-7 Renegade

Motorcraft 2150 Carb / GM HEI Ignition / 4.0 HO Head / Clifford Cam+Valve Train / Painless Wiring Harness / Bedlined Interior / 31" TRXUS M/T's / 1.25" Spidertrax Spacers/ and some indeterminate amount of suspension lift

I'm an auto mechanic who works on a doesn't need to know basis.
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Old 05-09-2005, 11:52 AM
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CJ5 Lift

with manual trans keep key in the on postion
with auto keep it in off/lock

yes it should pull straight out
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Old 05-09-2005, 02:09 PM
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RE: This is just annoying to me...

Are you putting a new lock cylinder in? I just did one on my fiances 93 5 speed and couldnt get it out for the life of me. Ended up have to destroy the lock cylinder.
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Old 05-10-2005, 10:31 AM
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RE: Humor and other things

Quote:
Are you putting a new lock cylinder in?
Ya, most likely, unless it's salvagable. How did you get it out?

Quote:
with manual trans keep key in the on postion
with auto keep it in off/lock
Ya, I had it in the on position. I still couldn't pull it out.
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1980 CJ-7 Renegade

Motorcraft 2150 Carb / GM HEI Ignition / 4.0 HO Head / Clifford Cam+Valve Train / Painless Wiring Harness / Bedlined Interior / 31" TRXUS M/T's / 1.25" Spidertrax Spacers/ and some indeterminate amount of suspension lift

I'm an auto mechanic who works on a doesn't need to know basis.
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Old 05-10-2005, 12:18 PM
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I just replaced the lock cylinder on my 78 CJ a few weeks ago.
I pulled the whole column out and put it in a vise where I could see and work on it. It really doesn't take that long to get it out, but try it in the vehicle first if you want.
I would suggest getting a new lock cylinder whether you think it is bad or not. I got mine at GhettoZone for $12. Look at the new cylinder and see where the spring loaded tab is on the side. This will tell you where you need to stick the screwdriver. It is not the square hole that you would think it would be. It's the one next to it.
Lastly, there is a metal rod that the lock cylinder pushes toward the firewall. This rod is what engages the electrical switch at the base of the column. Mine was rusted and bent from years of work. It will bind with the outer sleeve on the column if it is in the same shape as mine. You may have to get the column out to remove the rod. It needs to be straightened, cleaned and hosed down with WD40.
Good Luck.
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Old 05-10-2005, 09:28 PM
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I second redrooster's suggestion.

Been a few years, but I remember a spring loaded tab on one of the Jeep ignition switches that I have disassembled.

Regards,

Gadget
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Old 05-11-2005, 02:33 AM
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I threw mine in a vise, and wedged a screwdriver into the walls of the cylinder and just pried. I couldnt find the mystery retaining screw.
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Old 05-11-2005, 06:10 PM
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I hear you. If you can't finesse it, force it.
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Old 05-13-2005, 09:57 AM
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Quote:
I threw mine in a vise, and wedged a screwdriver into the walls of the cylinder and just pried. I couldnt find the mystery retaining screw.
Probably what I'm gonna end up doing. I took the column out and tore it into as many pices as I possibly could to clean it. It was pretty nasty. I think I'm gonna move the whole switch to the dash to avoid this problem in the future every time I get it a little muddy.
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1980 CJ-7 Renegade

Motorcraft 2150 Carb / GM HEI Ignition / 4.0 HO Head / Clifford Cam+Valve Train / Painless Wiring Harness / Bedlined Interior / 31" TRXUS M/T's / 1.25" Spidertrax Spacers/ and some indeterminate amount of suspension lift

I'm an auto mechanic who works on a doesn't need to know basis.
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Old 05-13-2005, 02:28 PM
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If you are going to move the switch to the dash then don't bother getting the old one out. Just let the key dangle so you confuse would be thieves. You still need to get the steering wheel lock mechanism out if you remove that switch and then rewire your ignition hot and accessory wires to the new switch. I think it will be much easier to get teh old lock cylinder out.
Did you do like I suggested and buy a new one to llok at? It will make it easier for you to visualize how to get the old one out.
Bring it over. I'll have it out in 5 minutes.
Nice Jeep by the way. If it were a few shades darker it would look like mine originally did.
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1622 Miles from Moab.
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Old 05-14-2005, 01:29 PM
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Another HUMMER OOPS

Bring it over. I'll have it out in 5 minutes.

???

I got the old one out already. I kinda had to force it out but I didn't do any damage. Thanks for all y'all's help.
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1980 CJ-7 Renegade

Motorcraft 2150 Carb / GM HEI Ignition / 4.0 HO Head / Clifford Cam+Valve Train / Painless Wiring Harness / Bedlined Interior / 31" TRXUS M/T's / 1.25" Spidertrax Spacers/ and some indeterminate amount of suspension lift

I'm an auto mechanic who works on a doesn't need to know basis.
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