Opinions please

Quik8slvr · #1 (**permalink**) 07-20-2003, 08:00 PM

Im thinking about swapping axels since my tiny dana 35 and 30 probably wont hold up to long under my heavy foot and all the power from this 350, i found a set of Dana 44's off of an older Grand Wagoneer with 3.07 gears (which will be nice on the gas mileage too) my question is how hard would it be to swap in these axels? would i need another new driveshaft? spring mounts? different backspacing on my rims? aside from paying for the axels are there any other hidden costs? Thanks for all the help

Quik[addsig]

Bounty__Hunter · #2 (**permalink**) 07-20-2003, 08:00 PM

Some SJ's came with pass. side drop on the front axle, make sure your's is driver's side diff. Many SJ's came with an AMC HD20 rear axle, so look close. Only a few years came with the D44 rear that wasn't offset diff like Quadratrac 4wd. The AMC HD20 is a good axle, stock 1-piece axles. Not as strong as a D44.

You'll need new perches, and the front pumpkin may require a little grinding for the driver's side spring perch. Brake lines will depend on what you have now. You shouldn't need to extend them much, if any.

I'd look at going SOA since you have to weld perches anyway. Maybe swap the super-stiff PC springs for a 2.5" set of another brand, then you can lose the long shackles, have about 7" or 8" lift, and much better articulation. Consider stock springs with an AAL (full-length) in each pack for about 6" of lift.

I'd get a anti-wrap bar for the rear axle if you don't have one already. Skyjacker just came out with a nice one for YJ's, buy it or copy it [img]modules/phpBB_14/images/smiles/icon_eek.gif[/img] [addsig]

Quik8slvr · #3 (**permalink**) 07-20-2003, 08:00 PM

The guy i talked to said they were 44's, and said the perches were in the right places already, my real concern is that he wasnt using the NP231 t-case, and since the 231 runs off of vaccum lines and the 44 doesnt, how much modification would be needed to adapt that axel to my NP231 tcase? swapping Tcases isnt an option as i've just put about $1,000 into this one between an SYE, and transmission adapters.[addsig]

Bounty__Hunter · #4 (**permalink**) 07-20-2003, 08:00 PM

I doubt the perches will be in the right place unless the axles have been under a YJ before. The angle of the rear perches will need to change to get the correct pinion angle, unless you use the correct shims.

As for the vacuum lines, remove all 4 vacuum lines from the transfer case and cap the vacuum ports. You can then remove the entire 4wd vacuum harness if you wanted to, it'd be useless.

Some SJ's came with front D44's with vacuum disconnect, which you would need to reconnect the harness at the front axle, no modification needs.

Go SOA [img]modules/phpBB_14/images/smiles/icon_rolleyes.gif[/img] [addsig]

jeepmaster · #5 (**permalink**) 07-20-2003, 08:00 PM

im going SOA!!!!!!!!!!!!!![addsig]

Quik8slvr · #6 (**permalink**) 07-20-2003, 08:00 PM

excuse my ignorance as i do not really understand how the transfercase works, but if i were to remove the vaccum lines how would i be able to engage the front axel in 4wd? isnt that what the vaccum lines are there for? also as far as the SOA i dont know if i'm really comfortable having quite that much lift, since 2 of my stock springs were shot, i got rid of them and a SOA with 4" springs would be a little to much lift for my taste[addsig]

Bounty__Hunter · #7 (**permalink**) 07-20-2003, 08:00 PM

I wouldn't suggest SOA with 4" springs, either stock or 2.5" at the most. Stck springs are plentiful.

Engaging the front axle depends on what the donor axle has. If it has manual hubs, you can lose the vacuum setup. If it has a vacuum actuator on the pass. side axle tube, you will need to reconnnect the vacuum.[addsig]

AFholmz · #8 (**permalink**) 07-20-2003, 08:00 PM

hey, im the one with the axels. The diff on the front axel is on

the drivers side. It does not use vacuum lines to engage.

Bounty Hunter is right about the rear spring perches you

will need to move them for pinion angle. Also the axels

are 6 lug, i forgot to mention that in the e-mails.[addsig]

AFholmz · #9 (**permalink**) 07-20-2003, 08:00 PM

If your front driveshaft is stock, it will need shorten an inch to

get full driverside compression. The rear cv driveshaft you

already have will work.[addsig]