2.5 to 4.0 Tb swap help

I did the throttle body swap a month ago. Every time I start the Jeep up the RPMs stay at 2500 RPMs for a few minutes. then falls back to idle around 500.RPMs if I hit the throttle again the motor dose not fall back to idle like it should. It slowly goes back to idle. Acts like a sticking throttle body. I cleaned the heck out of it before I installed the 4.0 tb I used both sensors from my 2.5 tb. And installed new gasket. Is one of the sensors bad? The tb moves freely when engine is off. any ideas guys ??
 
i had the same problem what ya gotta do is regrease the springs ans the pivot points fot the butterfly in the tb. when you clean it, it goes to a metal on metal contact the grease helped with it and doesnt stick anymore. Mine needed some lube and it perked right up to normal operation. hope this helps. Happy Wheeling
 
What sensors did you use or swap on the TB?
Nevermind I looked back on your earlier thread. Look at cleaning or replacing the TPS. If the PCM doesn't get a signal or is confused it will act like a high idle.
 
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Skulljeep683 said:
i had the same problem what ya gotta do is regrease the springs ans the pivot points fot the butterfly in the tb. when you clean it, it goes to a metal on metal contact the grease helped with it and doesnt stick anymore. Mine needed some lube and it perked right up to normal operation. hope this helps. Happy Wheeling

What type if grease did you use?
 
I don't believe so. I just removed the two sensors that where held into the tb by two torx bolts each. I took the two torxs bolts off the IAC ( One on each side that hold the sensor to the Tb) then pulled it out and installed it on the 4.0 tb
 

In your other thread you stated you used the IAC and TPS from your 2.5 on the new to you 4.0 TB. This is the correct way to avoid issues. It is possible your TPS is dirty, going bad or the connection isn't great.
 
I don't believe so. I just removed the two sensors that where held into the tb by two torx bolts each. I took the two torxs bolts off the IAC ( One on each side that hold the sensor to the Tb) then pulled it out and installed it on the 4.0 tb
You need to use the 2.5L IAC housing as well. The 2.5L IAC housing has a smaller hole than the 4.0L housing, so you've got the small 2.5L IAC plunger in the larger 4.0L housing hole. This is allowing more air into the engine and preventing your engine from returning to normal idle properly.
 

Thanks bounty!!! She purrs like a kitten now. Don't know how I over looked that. I guess that's what happens when IM a 12 pack down and in a rush while working on my Jeep. Any Ideas on how to get my door open? I started a thread on it. The jaws holding the door closed won't release. The door latch mechanisms is working fine buy the door won't open. Is there something holding the jaws closed and not releasing them. And yes the door is unlocked. Thanks again bounty
 
Can you pop off the other side door panel, see how it operates and use it as a working example to figure it out? I say this as I haven't had to go inside my doors yet, so no help there.
 
any grease works just fine, i prefer industrial red grease from lucas, 500* drop point so it sticks. i use it on EVERYTHING, its also fortified with anti-sieze so its good stuff. ^_^
 

Thanks bounty!!! She purrs like a kitten now. Don't know how I over looked that. I guess that's what happens when IM a 12 pack down and in a rush while working on my Jeep. Any Ideas on how to get my door open? I started a thread on it. The jaws holding the door closed won't release. The door latch mechanisms is working fine buy the door won't open. Is there something holding the jaws closed and not releasing them. And yes the door is unlocked. Thanks again bounty

gotta remove the interior panel after getting the door open and then reconnect the metal tab back onto the rod. you'll see it.
 
I ended up cutting the door strike pin off with a grinder. I wish it was just the rod. The jaws never released I believe there was some sort of failure in the actual latch
 
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