76 CJ5 project.....could use some advice.
- Thread starter Joseph.smith54
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69jeepcj
New member
I think it looks like you have a blown head gasket. looks like your antifreeze has mixed with your oil. I would drain the oil and see what it looks like. It could be just condensation build up, if your oil shows no signs of coolant in it, I would think that is more likely and would change the filter and put fresh oil in it and just keep an eye on it to see if it continues. My jeep had the same looking stuff in the oil fill tube for a while this spring and I freaked out, started asking around, and looking on hot rod forums about it, and it turns out that it can be normal if it sits for awhile, condensations builds up. Your pcv valve is supposed to prevent that I believe. Hope that helps and others may have much better advise as I have only been learning the inner workings of a engine over the last year or so.
Joseph.smith54
New member
The guy I bought it from told me it run when it was parked. I know it sat for a long time so I'm hoping it's just some condensation. I have to drop the oil pan anyways because when changing the fuel pump, I dropped a piece of the old gasket in there do it'll be pulled anyways. I'll post updates as I go along.
Joseph.smith54
New member
Drained the oil today. Seemed clean but I'm still going to pull the oil pan. Looks like all I have to remove is my starter to get all the bolts and it should come on out. Is that the case or is there more to it?
Seems like I had to remove a cross bar under the pan from side to side on the frame but it was no biggie. I'd do the same and remove the pan also if it were mine. I dropped my pan and found alot of silicone stuck to the pump screen plus sludge and other stuff...that an oil change wouldn't remove. If there's nothing in there, you've gained peace of mind. So you haven't wasted anything.
Joseph.smith54
New member
It's a 258 and I'll have to lift the motor. If I don't like what I see or if by the time I'm all done and it's not right, I have a 304 out if my 74 parts jeep I'll put in there. I know it runs.
Joseph.smith54
New member
An update on my 76. It's been too long since I've been on here and too long since I've had time off of work to mess with it. I got the fenders and hood pulled off. Still in the process of trying to remove the oil pan to take a look inside. Going to pick up a cherry picker tomorrow. I have about determined that I'm going to pull the body off and repaint the entire tub. Having some issues getting my grill off. The bottom bolt turns easy enough but whatever is in the grill that it fits to is spinning with it. Here's a few pictures in poor lighting.
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69jeepcj
New member
If you look at the bottom of the grill above the bolt, you will see a flat piece of metal sticking out that covers the bolt nut, the nut is supposed to stay in place and not spin but, does often. If you take a screwdriver, you can pry that piece up enough to get a wrench in there to hold the bolt still then push the piece back down when you are done. I have had trouble getting that piece to sit perfectly flat again after bending it up, but it usually bends back down with no problem.
69jeepcj
New member
I cant remember exactly how I jacked the motor up. Seems like I unbolted the motor mount and put short piece of 2x4 on one side of the pan and jacked it up enough to put something between the motor mount and mount horn so the motor can sit on that, let the jack back down and take the pan off.
Joseph.smith54
New member
I tried jacking it up on by the oil pan to get the bolt off. The bolt did come off but when I let the jack down the oil pan lip still wouldn't clear the motor mount. I got a 2 ton engine lift 20% off at advance because it had already been opened as a demo piece. I lifted the passenger side and got it off. Not sure whether to be terrified or be happy. Tell me what you think. The last picture and the picture of the oil pan are the ones that concern me.
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69jeepcj
New member
Man I don't know. definitely looks like water mixed with oil, weather it is just condensation or a coolant leak somewhere is the question and others may be able to answer better than me. I don't see any actual green coolant, does the oil that came out of the pan have any green swirls in it (coolant). If you don't see any signs of green coolant, I would change the oil, fill the radiator, run it and keep a good eye on the oil. I think if coolant Is in the oil, white smoke will blow out the exhaust but again, others may be able to give a better answer. I wouldn't panic yet over it, ive seen some nasty oil pans.
greg92jeepxj
Official Supporter
For sure , it looks like it may have been sitting for some time. The water infiltration or heavy condensation that is caked up on the valve train has been there for a while . Why , is the question . One would suspect a blown cylinder head gasket but like 69jeepcj said , let's not panic , I'd agree . Might as well clean it up best you can in preparation for trying to start it and diagnose it like a compression test . Got nothing to lose . After all , you'll be that far ahead if you are in fact going to tear it down for a rebuild , you'll know why it needs it. But yeah , there's evidence of water mixed with oil in the crankcase , but no coolant . I could surmise someone had run the engine with only water in it but let's not start thing the worst yet. Diagnostics first. Jeep looks good from these pictures !
Joseph.smith54
New member
Yet again, thanks for the advice. I think that is what I will do. Clean what I can, bolt everything back up. Fresh oil chance and attempt to run it. There is still a lot that I have to do before that point but i will Atleast give this 258 a chance before I decide to completely overhaul it. And the trick of prying the metal lip on the grill worked out great. It was way easier than some of the other ideas that I had found on other websites. Progress will be a lot slower over the next few weeks but hopefully I will get another weekend off so I can keep it going.
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greg92jeepxj
Official Supporter
I agree , give it a chance . I see new fel-pro gaskets , the valve cover and oil pan . Can't help but think there was work done to this engine in the past . Looks like maybe some machine shop work . Really got me wondering where that condensation came from ! No signs of coolant , guess you won't know until you fill the cooling system and try to start it for the first time . Keeping my fingers crossed for ya ! Best of luck , Will be following up close too . Greg
Joseph.smith54
New member
I took off the valve cover again and noticed that a couple of my push rods were really loose. To the point that they would slide out with ease. Also noticed that a few of my valves were stuck open. So I've now pretty much decided to rebuild this engine. I've never rebuilt an engine so I'm looking for some help through friends and you guys.
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greg92jeepxj
Official Supporter
I see why you've decided to rebuild . With the cylinder head off , there is unite a bit of corrosion in the lifter passages which tells me that water infiltration has caused this . The question is from where . Was this jeep sitting out and rained on uncovered or did a head gasket fail and leak internally and externally and cause this . Not knowing only means finding out the hard way.
Looks like the engine block will need to be hot tanked and magnafluxed to check for any cracks.
Please be advised that machine shop fees add up quick and I'm now wondering is it best to look for a 4.0 liter to replace this engine . It will,take you back to the drawing board in terms of planning , but I think you will have to first inquire the cost before proceeding to find out if repair or replace is the best option. Let's see what shape the block and head is in after clean up .
You can try to wire brush best you can the corrosion and see for yourself the condition before taking the block and head to a shop but only a hot tanking and magnafluxing will reveal any defects . Can the previous owner shed some light on any failures this engine may have had ?
I think you mentioned the guy you bought it from was honest with you so I hope past history was not too bad for this engine . We have got to know the condition of the block and head before moving on .
Looks like the engine block will need to be hot tanked and magnafluxed to check for any cracks.
Please be advised that machine shop fees add up quick and I'm now wondering is it best to look for a 4.0 liter to replace this engine . It will,take you back to the drawing board in terms of planning , but I think you will have to first inquire the cost before proceeding to find out if repair or replace is the best option. Let's see what shape the block and head is in after clean up .
You can try to wire brush best you can the corrosion and see for yourself the condition before taking the block and head to a shop but only a hot tanking and magnafluxing will reveal any defects . Can the previous owner shed some light on any failures this engine may have had ?
I think you mentioned the guy you bought it from was honest with you so I hope past history was not too bad for this engine . We have got to know the condition of the block and head before moving on .
greg92jeepxj
Official Supporter
Everywhere I look , where I see corrosion , it is where oil would be in contact with the internal parts . A cylinder has corrosion on the wall , crankshaft was sitting in water infiltrated oil , lifter passages caked with corroded oil deposits , no doubt , inspection is needed , and not just visual ,
hot tank and magnaflux . Pistons are clean on top , for example . That is usually done following cylinder head service . This raises a lot of questions . But I agree with you , I would feel better if a rebuild were done . If cost exceeds replacement , would you be willing to put an injected 4.0 liter in or is an original carburetored engine what you'd like ?
hot tank and magnaflux . Pistons are clean on top , for example . That is usually done following cylinder head service . This raises a lot of questions . But I agree with you , I would feel better if a rebuild were done . If cost exceeds replacement , would you be willing to put an injected 4.0 liter in or is an original carburetored engine what you'd like ?
I agree with Greg, have the block checked first. That will dictate your next move. If the block has a crack and it were me, I'd just look for anthor engine. I do like the fact that you would jump in with both feet and rebuild it yourself, nobody does that anymore. I hope the block is good and you get to experiance hearing an engine you have built with your own hands come to life. Good luck, keep us posted!
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