So im trying to figure out whether some modifications were made to the power steering on my new old TJ, i had the same year model a while back and it didnt behave this way, but I know the previous owner had heavy tires on there and did a lot of offroading. The steering wheel turns with the slightest touch and its bothering me how responsive the jeep will be at high speeds. Again i never had this issue with previous one. Where should i start looking, doesnt seem like any linkages have been removed for offroading, is it possible the PS pump or steering box were replaced with aftermarket parts that caused this? i heard its not a good idea to go messing with the steering box adjustment.
Steering too easy on TJ
- Thread starter PIR8
- Start date
dwillys
New member
Tire wear and especially tire pressure may be playing a roll. How much pressure is in the tires ? Certainly is you had like 50 + lbs. of pressure in your tires it would cause this. I have gotten my Jeep back from being serviced before with them putting air in my tires, at the max pressure. What load range are the tires ? Here is another angle, maybe he has hydro steering and has no idea ? it will certainly makes it feel very light, as if there is almost nothing to steer. Another thing is the steering gear may have been changed. Sometimes people change out the box to a quick steering gear box such as on maybe a Camaro rather then a Jeep. Jeeps may be 4 to 1 lock to lock where the Camaro may be 3 to 1 ratio. You should see how many turns it is from lock to lock on the steering wheel.On top of that certainly check all the steering linkages and their joints for play and make sure everything is tight. Also tilting the front axle up will give it a light steering effect along with no return to center, and a twitchy feeling on road.
Last edited:
69jeepcj
New member
I am with dwillys in that it sounds like someone changed to a tighter steering box, especially if the PO was a off roader. There are different ratios in steering boxes and one of the most sought after boxes is the mid 70,s GM box (the 76 box) found in many trucks and comaros. You can look on the bottom or side of your box and see if it has a big 76 stamped into it, if so someone has put that box in there. If all your steering linkage is ok, you will get used to it and probably like it better than the factory box. They are nice off road, not having to turn the wheel as much to make tight turns. ,A bit touchy on road but you should get used to it.
Thanks guys i will check all that out, the wheels and tires are actually new with new alignment i took off the larger BFG MTs now it has just 31" kumho ATs since its mostly on road for now. These tires I think have 50 psi on the chart but i assume you should go by whats on door. Anyway it felt the same way with the MTs at lower pressure so i dont think thats that. I will recheck the linkages but the mech didnt see anything i just changed the stabilizer as it was leaking and have front bilsteins coming. The mech's initial comment was "this thing is all over the road" but hes not a jeep guy i dont think he even looked at type of pump or steering box. The pump looks stock although im not 100% sure ill look at pics of that and box and compare to mine. I read somewhere about PS fluid type/consistency but since no one mentioned that here ill assume its not a factor.
dwillys
New member
50lbs. is way to much and lowering your tire pressure is the easiest thing to try, and it's free. You won't die lowering the pressure to say 25lbs. and taking it around a couple of blocks. You don't have the original tires on any more so the door tire pressure chart is irrelevant. You haven't told us the load range of the tire and I don't think you know what that is. The load range will be a letter like a C, or D, or E. The load range is what tells you how much weight the tire can support and also plays a part on how much air and how flexible the tire is. You can look up the chalk to find out how much pressure to put in the tires. BTW, the only vehicles that uses 50 + lbs. in their tires is big trucks, not vehicles our size, ever !
JPNinPA
Active member
Post a pic of the steering box.
The best method for tire pressure is a chalk test. Scrub chalk across the tire. Make sure it is heavy so it will rub onto the ground when you roll forward. Measure the thread across the tire. Roll forward measure the mark on the ground and compare. They should be within an inch.
Don't be surprised if the pressure required is 25 psi.
Third if the alignment guy isn't a 4wd guy it is likely the alignment may not be done properly. I've taken my jeep to some well known box store places for alignments and took the jeep back. They didn't check for warn parts.. I had two bad TREs and more. If you do get it aligned again get a copy of the numbers. Those numbers are your alignment that you pay for. Just ask for them up front so they save them and print them out.
As for fluid. It is not the issue. Fluid is how easy you turn the wheel not how responsive the turn is.
The best method for tire pressure is a chalk test. Scrub chalk across the tire. Make sure it is heavy so it will rub onto the ground when you roll forward. Measure the thread across the tire. Roll forward measure the mark on the ground and compare. They should be within an inch.
Don't be surprised if the pressure required is 25 psi.
Third if the alignment guy isn't a 4wd guy it is likely the alignment may not be done properly. I've taken my jeep to some well known box store places for alignments and took the jeep back. They didn't check for warn parts.. I had two bad TREs and more. If you do get it aligned again get a copy of the numbers. Those numbers are your alignment that you pay for. Just ask for them up front so they save them and print them out.
As for fluid. It is not the issue. Fluid is how easy you turn the wheel not how responsive the turn is.
Last edited:
xtremeadventurer
New member
The same thing happened to my ride and it turned out that all I need was a tire alignment.
Dwillys are you saying the only test for a changed steerimg box is a different number of turnsof wheel from stock? I have 3.5 currently counting same hand position on wheel. I dont know if that has necessarily changed it seems like quite a few turns (ill google stock) but these turns whether standing or moving you can fully do with just your pinky, so when youre moving the slightest accidental touch and wheel is spinning. I sure dont remember that on previous 97. The jeep also has a combination of 2" body lift and not sure how much spring lift so i assume with susp lift some components may have been replaced. It had 2 alignments now since i got it so im thinking thats less likely and the MTs were deflated initially to around 25 psi.
JPNinPA
Active member
The stock TJ steering box is 3 3/8 from stop to stop. Tighter ones are 2 15/16 stop to stop provided no one changed the stop location to prevent rubbing. The image you gave is a Saginaw box. There are different configuration for the Saginaw box. You stated stop to stop is 3.5 so you are close to stock. The other item would have been the pitman arm length. It's not in a pic but if it were longer it would reduce the stop to stop rotations.
There is a lash adjustment on that box to tighten the response. However too tight kills the gears.
The other image shows mostly stock components. The drag link, tre, control arms.. The track bar is not relocated but can't tell if it is stock. The sway bar connectors are JKS quick disconnects and not a bad thing. I cannot speak to the health of the components from a still picture but could say the grease boots are not damaged.
You mention several alignments. Please post the values they provided after it was aligned.
Please complete a dry steering test and post results or video of the components during the test. Terry posted one on his track bar that was good... Just to give you an idea. Stu's off road has a good do it yourself alignment check.
Again describe the issue.
1.) While driving down the highway your vehicle wanders and your correction seems to be delayed and overcompensating?
2.) While driving down the highway your vehicle pulls to a side and your adjustment is overcompensating?
3.) While driving down the highway your vehicle stays centered but any slight turn it is overcompensating or veering?
4.) other ...
There is a lash adjustment on that box to tighten the response. However too tight kills the gears.
The other image shows mostly stock components. The drag link, tre, control arms.. The track bar is not relocated but can't tell if it is stock. The sway bar connectors are JKS quick disconnects and not a bad thing. I cannot speak to the health of the components from a still picture but could say the grease boots are not damaged.
You mention several alignments. Please post the values they provided after it was aligned.
Please complete a dry steering test and post results or video of the components during the test. Terry posted one on his track bar that was good... Just to give you an idea. Stu's off road has a good do it yourself alignment check.
Again describe the issue.
1.) While driving down the highway your vehicle wanders and your correction seems to be delayed and overcompensating?
2.) While driving down the highway your vehicle pulls to a side and your adjustment is overcompensating?
3.) While driving down the highway your vehicle stays centered but any slight turn it is overcompensating or veering?
4.) other ...
Last edited:
JPNinPA
Active member
Thanks guys, it would be closest to #3 as in slightest touch of the steering wheel and youre changing lanes. Its consistent throughout the 3.5 turns no dead spots or pulling to one side. I end up turning too fast even when parking and have to correct. Im a big guy and i love the feel of my Ram where it actually takes a little effort to change lanes and you dont have to keep making corrections all the time. Basically if i there was a way to add friction to the steering wheel thats what id be looking for, or decrease the output of the PS. I'll do the tests when things dry up, im at 29 psi right now.
JPNinPA
Active member
Stock caster angle should be closer to 7 deg. The closer to zero the easier it becomes to turn. With 33+ tires you would want to be around 5. I'd like a picture like I posted showing all the components. Specifically the control arms, pitman arm and how the drag link and track bar lignite up.
They have caster as in spec but they can change specs by overwriting them on the screen. Cast is mainly controlled by the control arm lengths. However with modified vehicles owners may be welding parts closer to where they need them without changing control arm lengths much.
They have caster as in spec but they can change specs by overwriting them on the screen. Cast is mainly controlled by the control arm lengths. However with modified vehicles owners may be welding parts closer to where they need them without changing control arm lengths much.
I'll check for a shop, btw the way heres jeep dealer response about steering box which had a small number on cap of 5689010.
"The part number you provided is a General Motors part number. From this information it appears that somebody retrofitted GM parts onto your Jeep Vehicle. Because of this, the gear is most likely not of the same ratio/operation as the original Jeep part that was designed for your vehicle. "
Am i onto something here or unlikely?
"The part number you provided is a General Motors part number. From this information it appears that somebody retrofitted GM parts onto your Jeep Vehicle. Because of this, the gear is most likely not of the same ratio/operation as the original Jeep part that was designed for your vehicle. "
Am i onto something here or unlikely?
Similar threads
