Bang Bang for My Buck.

[KletusJeeps]

Well my 95 TJ (yes I said that correctly my 95 yj has a tj powerplant and is about 2 days away from running now) needs a lil lift. I have a 2" body lift now, discos, and removed that ol rear trak bar, but I want to boost her up a lil more I was wondering what everyone thought of the following ways to pump her up a couple extra inches. What do you think the pros and cons of each are and how satisfied you have been if you have done them.
Let me know and let me know if I forget one

[jps4jeep]

the SOA lift is very inexpensive when done on a budget. when done properly, and in your driveway, it can get expensive. Another option you did not mention and I would consider is either 1/4 or 3/4 eliptic springs. these will give you only a few inches of lift but the articulation is amazing. plus is very inexpensive. With your body lift should accually make it a bit easier to install. I will look for a good link!

[jps4jeep]

http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/susp/3_4ellip/

[redrooster]

I think that depends on how proficient you are at setting up suspensions and how you plan on using the Jeep. If you don't know how to fabricate and weld then you may want to stay away from the SOA. I would only consider the SOA or Spring lift because I personally don't like add a leafs, shackles or body lifts.
A good spring lift with u bolt skids will work well and I love the ride of Skyjacker and Rancho.
The spring over does provide a good ride but you have to bear in mind that some geometry is going to change in the steering design and the caster. You also have to add a traction bar to the rear in most cases or the rear end will "roll up" under torque and break the yoke or driveshaft. You will also need new driveshafts, shocks, perches, etc...
If money is no object, then I would see if anyone has a coil kit available for them still. I have seen several YJ's with he coil kit that were very impressive.
If you decide on the SOA then keep us posted. I will be glad to give some advice onthe subject.

	Caster Caster angle is the angular displacement from the vertical axis of the suspension of a steered wheel, measured in the longitudinal direction. It is the angle between the pivot line (in a car - an imaginary line that runs through the center of the upper ball joint to the center of the lower ball joint) and vertical.

[Joopin]

SOA all the way! I love the results I got, it would have been cheaper but the longer I waited to do it, the more money I had to spend and the more upgrades I did at the same time.

[hi_c]

Ah, the age-old question. Well, if you want to do it right the first time, do the SOA. But before you start tearing apart your jeep, think it through. Are these the axles you plan to have for a while? Is it worth cutting and re-welding spring perches on an axle that you'll eventually swap/break? Also, save up and get the SYE/CV shaft conversion. Do those things, and you'll be happier in the end.

C

(yes, i have a 4" spring under, but I don't have time for SOA. My lift took 4 hours. Time is important on a daily driver, and when you need it everyday. obviously, a suspension lift would be my second choice in the poll, as it probably would be everybody else's.)

[Bounty__Hunter]

Remember that a SOA adds about 5.5" of lift, do you need that much? I recommend staying as low as your tire size will allow, keeping the center of gravity lower. If you want 4" total lift, get 4" springs and remove the body lift. If you want 5.5" of lift, do the SOA and remove the body lift.

Remember that a 2.5" and 4" spring lift cost about the same, so get the 4" to get the most for your money, then you can always add body lift later when you get inchitis.

What size tire do you ultimately want to run?

[KletusJeeps]

Well I would like to see 33's or 35's under her replacing my 31's but that is about it...after that I think it gets to be a bit big for my taste and driving style. I am curious about this 3/4 elliptical spring but it seems to leave the front out of the entire thing.

[redrooster]

You don't want a 3/4 elliptic on the front (some people call them buggy leaves).
They are good on the rear and many people run them around here. The only problem is that when the axle pulls down the buggy leaf drops down before the spring pack starts to flex. This is because it is much easier for a single leaf to bend than your multi-leaf pack. where you will notice this is on higher speed drops (potholes, ditches, whatever). You need to put a little bumpstop between the frame and the buggy leaf too, or you will hear it slapping the frame non-stop.
If you put one on the front, then you will be terrified as you try to stop pointing up hill. It will pull down and make you feel like you are going over backwards. Not to mention that torque on the axle will make the pinion roll down toward the ground and make your driveshaft angle very bad.
I have that setup on the rear, it's great and easy to do. I made some weld on brackets instead of using the u-bolts. It's easy flex and easy to get used to.

[TwistedCopper]

For the tire size you want, if you plan on keeping the 2" body lift I would say a suspension kit with 3 1/2" lift springs. You can do this without modifying the slip yoke or driveshaft and it can be done in one day for anywhere from $389 on up shocks included (mine was around $600 shipped).

A SOA would be alot more time and work (welding, SYE, driveshaft) but it really is the best way to go for ground clearance and ride quality. The SOA kits are cheaper but after doing the other mods it will probably cost close to a complete lift spring kit, maybe more if you have to have the welding done for you. As Bounty said, I would lose the body lift with the SOA, but that's just preference.

[Snitty]

for 33's... i'd surely go with keeping the body lift... and bringing the suspension up 3.5 to 4 inches