Custom Turbo Setup - Page 2

mrmopar02 · #21 (**permalink**) 03-07-2008, 11:33 AM

I'll definatly do a write-up when I get some free time. Balancing work and an expensive time consuming hobby is tough.

Bounty__Hunter · #22 (**permalink**) 03-07-2008, 05:13 PM

Those looked like closed roads

What's the distracting gauge on the dash?

mrmopar02 · #23 (**permalink**) 03-07-2008, 05:17 PM

It's a narrow band air fuel gauge. I took the videos before I got it running right. It only measures air/fuel at WOT. When the lights are green that means the engine is running rich and safe. In the video you can see it was red a little bit, that means its running lean.

Bounty__Hunter · #24 (**permalink**) 03-07-2008, 08:27 PM

I thought that was what it was, but it didn't look right jumping around. I've been eyeing the wideband gauges for my YJ to help dial in the mods.

mrmopar02 · #25 (**permalink**) 03-08-2008, 04:21 PM

yea, an air fuel gauge, narrow band or wide band is an absolute necessity when tuning your vehicle

TerryMason · #26 (**permalink**) 03-08-2008, 08:33 PM

I've got a wideband in my 914 - it's a great investment. Pretty expensive, but you are just guessing without one.

Hear's the kit I have:
Innovate Motor Sports On-Line Store

I'd go with a wideband over a narrow one.

mrmopar02 · #27 (**permalink**) 03-09-2008, 03:15 AM

i'm definatly getting a wideband when i get around to it. Ive got some other things I need to spend the money on first. I had the narrow band lying around from my SSEi. So I threw it in there.

IPSteeler · #28 (**permalink**) 04-06-2008, 05:56 PM

This look's like a mod i would like to do.
I dont have any experience with turbo's on gas engine's so i am not sure how you would be able to adjust the fuel. Did you ever figure that out?
When do you think you will be able to come up with a wright up on this?

mrmopar02 · #29 (**permalink**) 04-07-2008, 12:02 AM

Well, so far, I've tried several things. I've tried an inline booster fuel pump running off a hobbs switch (a switch that completes a circuit when it sees positive pressure in the intake manifold). That works here and there but sometimes it chokes the fuel to the rail and sometimes it pumps too much and sometimes it works perfectly. And let me tell ya, when it works right she really moves. I spent way too much money on a boost contolled fuel pump booster. That didnt work becuase no matter how much voltage I send to the pump it still sends the same amount of fuel to the injectors because of the in tank fuel pressure regulator. I tried a 2 bar map. On the newer jeeps the voltage going into the factory map sensor is variable. The factory sensor makes much less resistance than the 2 bar. So when the new sensor is hooked up it's about 2v-3v less than the factory which is telling the computer to go easy on the fuel. I have a few more things i'm going to try. The next thing i'm going to do is hook up the hobbs switch with a higher voltage and splice it into to the output of the map. So when the hobbs sees boost it's going to send a higher voltage to the computer's readings. If that doesnt work I'm going to plumb in a 7th injector or a fuel solenoid (from a nitrous setup) and run it off of the hobbs switch. In this case when the switch sees boost, it's going to complete the circuit to the solenoid or extra injector and inject extra fuel into the manifold. And if that doesnt work and I havnt hung myself yet from frustration, I'm going to get access to the fuel tank (either dropping the tank, which I really don't want to do or very very carefully cut an access hole over the tank) remove the factory fuel pump and fuel regulator, hook up a higher flow one, remove the factory fuel pressure regulator, and add an msd2222 (a very simple adjustable fuel pressure regulator with boost refrence).

I answer to your question about the write up. Right now I'm far too busy with work to do a write up. It's tough to balance what I do for a living and trying to solve this stupid returnless fuel line system. But, if you pm me with some sort of way to contact you I would be more than happy to help you out with a turbo setup of your own.

A little funny story about the jeep I thought I would share with all of you. I'm pretty much running an open exhaust at this point, which i'm going to worry about after I get the system running right. the exhaust comes out of the turbo about 2ft and then to a u bend and thats it. The exhuast is dumping out right under the passanger seat. The turbo whistle is extremely high pitched and deafening, especiallywhen you drive next to a jersey-barrier. Everybody looks around to see where the fighter jet is when I pass by them (thats a quote ofrom a friend of mine that I took for a ride the other day). So I'm driving home from work today. I got pulled over. Up here in mass sometimes the police don't take too kindly to loud cars. The cop get out and walks up to me and says "What the hell did you do to this poor car?". So I told him that I put a turbo in it (aparently the police officer is a car enthusiast). He made me get out and show him. He told me if this wasn't so "cool" he'd give me a ticket.

IPSteeler · #30 (**permalink**) 04-07-2008, 10:52 PM

WOW that seem's like a cool cop. He deserves a donut!
I can under stand what you are saying about everything in the install.
Doesnt sound to hard it just seems like you have to go on many part's search's!
The only thing i can think of right now for the fuel problem is running a separate electric throttle switch under the existing pedal kind of like a bigrig.
Run a 12V feed to the fly-by-wire and from there running it to the fuel pump.
You should be able to use resistor's to adjust the voltage and amperage to the fuel pump.
That way the more you hit the gas the more pressure there will be in the fuel system.
Other than that doesnt a XJ with the 4.0 use a return on the regulator. If so maybe, Just maybe it might work with the wrangler format. You will just have to run a return to the tank and put a steady flow fuel pump in the tank if you cant just run a 12V source to the existing pump to make it constant flow.

mrmopar02 · #31 (**permalink**) 04-07-2008, 11:00 PM

EUREKA! I did it. The 7th injector worked. I put a T into the fuel line, ran the line to an extra injector I installed just before the throttle body and wired it to a hobbs switch. It runs nice and comfortably rich through all the gears. Now I can actually get some sleep not worrying about what I have to do to get it running right.

mrmopar02 · #32 (**permalink**) 04-14-2008, 09:11 PM

Well, a little bit of advice to everyone. Keep an eye on your fuses and your electrical setup. I blew the fuse to the oil pump that removes oil from the turbo. You can hear the oil pump at idle but when your crusing down the road the turbo is far too oloud to hear the pump. So without proper oil scavenging I destroyed the bearing in the turbo which then seized the blades. So, It took me 3 months to get the system running right and it took me 2 hours to turn the rig back to stock. For about 30 seconds I contemplated a supercharger setup. I think I'm going in a different direction now.

jfrabat · #33 (**permalink**) 04-28-2008, 04:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrmopar02

Well, a little bit of advice to everyone. Keep an eye on your fuses and your electrical setup. I blew the fuse to the oil pump that removes oil from the turbo. You can hear the oil pump at idle but when your crusing down the road the turbo is far too oloud to hear the pump. So without proper oil scavenging I destroyed the bearing in the turbo which then seized the blades. So, It took me 3 months to get the system running right and it took me 2 hours to turn the rig back to stock. For about 30 seconds I contemplated a supercharger setup. I think I'm going in a different direction now.

That sucks! Keep us posted on the progress...