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I don't even know how to respond to that one!!! :lol::lol::lol:

Sorry Yuri, gonna keep 'em for the "just in case factor." Still haven't gotten around to removing them yet anyway, my wife distracted me from working on my Jeep with this whole having a new baby thing!!! :lol: Now I have two boys to wash my Jeep after I go mudding!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :lol:

Yukon gear all the way. For the 20: AMC Model 20 Differential Rings & Pinions Auto Parts: YG M20-273, YG M20-308, YG M20-331, YG M20-354, YG M20-373, YG M20-411, YG M20-456, YG M20-488, ZG M20-411, ZG M20-456, ZG M20-488, For the 30: Dana Spicer D30 HD Differential Rings & Pinions Auto Parts...

Sounds good. So do I just grind the face off where it connects and knock it out with a puch to remove them? I would like to leave the option to put them back on if I ever, (ghasp), have to sell it.

Isn't one a two bolt main and the other four bolt as well? Wikipedia will know! It knows everything.

I wonder why they had so many options for gearing. I'll bet not one out of one hundred people who bought these things new at the dealer even thought about what gearing they were getting. Just one of those strange things I guess. Sort of like the 351 cleavland/windsor deal. Maybe it just had...

I would say most guys automatically think 4.56s because MOST of us have a 4.0L, or a 2.5L. You, however, (depending on what year 360, and what mods you're running), are going to have either more, of WAY more torque than the rest of us. That said, I wonder what gears you're running now. If you...

I have stock length shackles, so that shoulden't be a problem. With 4" of suspension lift, I should be able to torque out pretty good, (I have some TJ flares i just need to install them), so rubbing shouldn't be a problem. I do drive it on the highway quite a bit, but I'll just go slower...

So I tried to "use" the site, and didn't find a difinitive answer... How much extra articulation can I get without my swaybars, AND, do I really need them on the street on a leaf sprung vehicle? Thanks guys.

I've got a helper, so it's all good.

Seems like welding your diff would make it tough on the street. Doesn't it put alot of strain on your shafts when you go around turns? I'll keep my eye out for a different rear. How easy is "easy" when you're talking about swapping out the 35?

I left the cat for now. Just clamped on a 40 series Delta Flow Flow Master. Not sure how I feel about it... Sort of sounds like a ricer fart can on steroids. Still better than stock though.

Looks good man! Only, now you've opened a can of worms you'll never get shut! HA! :lol: Won't be long 'till you're trying to do an SOA, Gear it, lock it, wedge 40's under it, and a V8 in it!! 8) Have fun man!!!

I need a locker to go where I want, there's no question about that. But is it just a total waste to lock my Dana 35? I usually stay pretty mellow on the trail, but sometimes I'll go berzerk on the 'ol YJ. :twisted: I drive it to work about three days a week, and wheel it almost every weekend...

Nice. Red stag, huh? sort of looks like a cross between an Elk and a Mule deer. Are red stag mostly in Texas?

Another problem I've got is the 190,000 miles on the I6. If I DO rev it to redline, I'm afraid I might break a ring on the carbon buildup. The guy that had it before me just lugged it up and down the road for 15 years. Screw it, if I blow it up, that's just an excuse to drop in an a 350...

Right, but I still need to know how much is too much. I'm down in third coming up some of the hills on my way to and from work. The 33's just bog me down, (havn't regeared my axles yet), so bad I'm holding up old ladies and Ice cream trucks. I have to keep the rev's up, even if it sounds like...

Good question! I was just wondering that myself. My 4L sounds like it's about to come unwound at 3 grand, I shift at about 2,500. I was going to ask the same thing. Thought maybe something was wrong with my tach.

Hmm...Ghosts. It has to be ghosts. Or, like, some kind of demon.

Yup, shure was. Thanks.