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It's a Mopar part. You can get them from the Jeep dealer, QTec, or TheJeep.com. I think they're a little steep- $20 or so. You might do better to have somebody make you one (see above).

Hrm... I actually do have the vacuum from the carb. That's how the old Prestolite was set up. Do I have a manifold vacuum port somewhere? If so, where is it? My exhaust manifold and intake manifold have both been hacked on a bit. I timed the engine to 9 BTDC at 1600 RPM with the vacuum...

I just replaced my old Prestolite with a new (!) HEI. In-cap coil, 15 degree (?) advance can, basically right off a 1980 Jimmy. The problem- the engine times out great, the centrifugal advance follows the curve beautifully, and without vacuum advance hooked up it runs like a charm. The...

Well, so far I've been the exception to the 'Carter carbs/prestolites run like ****' rule. After 5000 miles (since rebuild), though, the 30 yr old Prestolite might be starting to fail. The Jeep starts and idles beautifully, but after you rev it up, it won't idle back down- it tries, but it...

Just to add a useless comment... I was going to help you out and go look at my '77. Then... I realized I wouldn't be able to get to work in the morning without coolant or oil :). Sorry- hope you find the info you need!

Sparky- How well does your dog enjoy 4-wheeling? I'm just about to finish the frame-off on my 1981, and happened to encounter a stray hound puppy in the course of the summer. So far, he seems to enjoy my Dad's CJ-5, but I haven't tried him out on extended trail rides (just cruising around...

Just so you know, it's not actually that bad to pull the dash and start over... With CJs, I usually just strip back to the main harness (fuse box and under-dash), repair as needed, and start from there. Electrical gremlins are a pain. Good luck!

Whoa, man... Hate that it's been so long and you haven't gotten a reply. I haven't ever had any problems with stuck shift rods- usually, you just rotate them 90 degrees and they slide out (detent balls and interlock pins require rotation). I always just stick a small screwdriver in the hole...

Shoot, good call, sorry. Somehow I missed that one. Hrm... The manual said 80W/90 for my T150. Wonder if I ought to drain it and put in some synthetic?

The trans takes standard 90 weight gear oil. Don't use anything else- you have rather delicate brass synchros. The rear end will either take 90 weight or limited slip 90 weight (depending on whether or not you have a factory Trac-Loc carrier). Everything should be available at your local...

It's essentially the same as a golf-cart signal unit. If you can find one for a 12 volt cart, you can probably fix something up. It sounds crazy, but I'm pretty sure that's where the signal unit on my 1975 was cobbled from.

The stock shackles barely allow the spring eyes to clear the pivots. I'm not at home, so I can't give you an exact measurement, but they're pretty damned short- maybe 4" total length, 2.5" or 3" eye to eye? Also, the stock shackles have a slight outward-facing flange running down them and no...

My 76 CJ7 rebuild is finally nearing completion. Started with a new 258 and blown... err... everything else... So after new front and rear ends, T-150 rebuild, Dana 20 rebuild, new bushings and shocks, new wiring... The old girl is finally getting ready to go. 2 final questions, though...

On mine, the extra coil of wires from the fuse box actually ended up being the old brain box wiring for the ignition. If electronic ignition has been installed, the extra stuff just hangs there (it can be removed). As to the extra wire- tach... more brain box hookups... who knows. Good luck...