!998 Cherokee

Jeep Wrench

New member
Hi gang,

I'm new to this site and hope I can rely on your knowledge for these items:

I just bought a 1998 Cherokee that had a few issues. I've fixed the major problems but want to correct these as well.

1. The overhead console lights do not operate. Do these bulbs all run off a single fuse or is there a relay involved? Also, the only courtesy light illuminating is the one beneath the dash when the door is open. I'm assuming the rear courtesy lamp or console light(s) should light as well.

2. The driver's side door was pryed open in an attempt to steal the vehicle which damaged the opening mechanism from the outside (the inside opener operates fine) To open the driver's door requires a trick of depressing the button, pushing the door inward and then pulling. It appears the outter linkage needs more throw to completely unlatch the door. Has anyone dealt with this issue? If so, how is it adjusted? I've tried moving the latch in a different directions but it didn't work.


Thanks in advance for any useful information. I've purchased this as a fixer-upper so don't care to buy a manual as I plan on selling it soon.


Bruce
 

Hello and welcome to Jeepz.com ! As far as the overhead console , I don't think there would be any relays since relays are generally used for heavy amp accessories such as fans and compressors for example. Between the PDC and the cabin fuse panel , that should be where the fuses are. Not having the proper wiring diagram for a '98 , I can only check my '92 FSM if it is the same . But between these two locations , there must be fuses for these lights. You would have to start from there , especially if you must start a trace. To fix the drivers door , you will have to remove the interior door panel to see if any linkage rods are bent or disconnected. I know the are two separate linkages to open the door. One goes directly from the outside handle and down to the door latch and is spring loaded. It sounds like the link rod from the interior handle has either disconnected or was bent in the intrusion and is not pushing the lever enough as you say. Both handles and linkages trip ultimately trip the same lever to unlatch the door. Once the panel is of , you will be able to clearly see the operation of each mechanism. This will have to be your first plan of attack. Looking forward to your progress if you can post back and if further assistance is needed , I will refer to my manual if I can associate it with your year and application. It may be similar. I don't have an overhead console as you do so I will have to rely on the manual.
Hope this helps and let us know how it's going when you can . Thank you for your membership here at Jeepz.com. Greg
 
Thanks for your reply Greg.

Concerning the door; I've removed the panel which is how I discovered the outter door handle's linkage does not have enough throw to operate correctly. Is there any way to adjust it?

As for the console lights, I've reffered to online fuse locations and the one inside the fuse cover panel but can't determine which fuse it is.

Bruce
 
Thanks for your reply Greg.

Concerning the door; I've removed the panel which is how I discovered the outter door handle's linkage does not have enough throw to operate correctly. Is there any way to adjust it?

As for the console lights, I've reffered to online fuse locations and the one inside the fuse cover panel but can't determine which fuse it is.

Bruce
the linkage rods don't have an actual adjustment other than bending the rod itself , like a choke rod on a carburetor. I suspect that when the break in was attempted , a " slim Jim " as known in the trade was used to unlock the door . That is generally how doors are opened but nowadays to thwart off theft the linkage is designed to move left and right and pulling on rods will only bend them and not succeed in opening the door. I suspect that was the first attempt and when unsuccessful , it was forced by applying pressure to the jamb while attempting to pull on the lock rod. Whether you've got power locks or manual , it will still have the rod coming from the toggle which is what must be disengaged before the handle push button can trip the lock to open. Even if you can try to push where the button rod connects to the door lock , a lever from the toggle switch on the inside handle won't allow it to operate. It's a little like a sear on the firing mechanism on a pistol or rifle , it has a disconnecter so it won't operate until the trigger is pulled with safety released . For our purpose , consider the toggle lock the disconnecter and the internal handle the trigger. To further this analogy , the sear is the lever to push the door lock open and release from the jamb. Since the rod is most likely bent , your not getting the full throw it should to release. I would have to ask you if it looks like the rod has an extreme bend and can be bent to give more throw. Do be careful as these rods may be connected to plastic levers on the handle inside the door. Please handle with care. Since the rod is probably not contacting the glass or regulator , it means it most likely was forced down I. An effort to open the door while forcing the door jamb lock to spring.
The overhead console will have to be searched on a wiring diagram to find its power source , will have to dig out my FSM . It's temporarily stored in a box while I'm relocating my library for painting but will try to get it if need be . Let me know. Hope this helps and sorry for the LOOOOONNNNNGGGGGG and detailed explanation ( referring to door locks as a trigger mechanism ). Hope this helps . Greg
 

You hit the nail on the head. I had to drill a hole in the door just inside where the door panel ends, I used a tool similar to a slotted screwdriver with the middle ground out to secure the linkage as I hammered the other end. This did straighten it out and the door works fine now.

Thanks again Greg. Let me know if you find the schematics to the consol lights.

Bruce
 
You hit the nail on the head. I had to drill a hole in the door just inside where the door panel ends, I used a tool similar to a slotted screwdriver with the middle ground out to secure the linkage as I hammered the other end. This did straighten it out and the door works fine now. Thanks again Greg. Let me know if you find the schematics to the consol lights. Bruce
image-640421062.jpg Sorry I have not had much time to reply . I have enclosed a snapshot from my FSM which will give a good start as where to begin to look for power to your overhead console . There are more pages but you know a wiring diagram will have you turning pages back and forth like a road map . At least this sheet will give reference to where the console draws power to illuminate its lights. The other features will draw power from other source . If it's only the lights as you posted , the power should be drawn from the same source as the dash illumination as you may have reasoned. Hope this helps and let me know if your diagnostics point you to another source and hope I can provide the sheet as a reference. Please keep in mind this is a '92 FSM but I suspect your '98 may be similar. Greg
 
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