No start

S

Saltydog13

New member
Disconnected battery last weekend to switch out heater blower motor and fan switch. Battery was disconnected for about 5 hours. Reconnected and nothing happened. At first no lights, clock, nothing. Now the lights come on and the clock works but nothing else. I checked all connections and fuses and all appears good. Tried charge and no change. Tried to jump start and no change. When I turn key all I get is a groaning sound. Any ideas?
 

If you put a voltmeter across the battery what voltage do you read? Have you trickle charged the battery? Where did you store the battery? Was the battery top wet? Enough to wet between the posts? Have you cleaned the battery terminals and connectors? Do the wires look corroded? Clean the opposite side of the grounds, where they contact the block and the body.
 
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Went ahead and got a new Optima Red. I have power now to the direct 15 amp line which controls fog lights, cigarette/power plug and new heater fan (woohoo) but nothing else. Nothing now when I turn ignition, no head lights/break lights/dash lights, no wipers, nothing. I know the battery is good and is 100% charged and new. Connections are correct. I installed new starter solenoid and not even a click.
I understand that the last battery was drained so that is why no juice and nothing worked but now with new battery I am stumped. All fuses are good. As this is my first CJ, could the computer (I guess that is what it is called, see photo) have gone bad? I had to move mounting location, could I have done something to screw it up? Never unplugged just removed from holder, moved then re-inserted in holder. It is so dusty it looks like original.

image-3351313936.jpg
 

The ignition control module (pictured) will not have any spark at the coil or plugs if it were bad, but the engine would crank. I think you have a connection issue some where or you starter is froze up, I mentioned starter because you say you get a GROAN when you try to start. If you have a volt meter, test the wires at your coil for power, then check wires at starter for power.
 
I had a bad connection so now that is taken care of so I have power. Now the engine turns over but doesn't start.
Checked the spark plugs and they all spark. Checked connections again and battery ground and all are good.
 
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JPNinPA said:
Are you getting fuel? You say you do have spark.
Click to expand...
Agree to check for fuel . Could it be the dura spark not charging the ignition coil in RUN position and only in START that spark is observed ? Possible ?
 
hmmmm voltage regulator is comeing to my mind as being the problem, they do strange things when they go bad.
 
Gennybro said:
hmmmm voltage regulator is comeing to my mind as being the problem, they do strange things when they go bad.
Click to expand...
I'll respect that since the wiring diagram does show ignition wiring to makes,connection with the alternator . Further checking will be necessary to find out if the current is shorted and if so , where.
 
Try this check : when cranking , hold a test light to the positive side of the ignition coil. Do the same for the negative side and check if still lit when cranking stops. You posted that you are getting spark at all cylinders while cranking but still a no start. Questioning the quality of the reading ; is the spark observed a bright flash or just a small spark ? You may have a weak ignition coil. If all cylinders read the same , the dura spark is most likely good. Do an ohms test to the ignition coil and verify readings with a shop or repair manual. If the ignition coil ohms readings are good then the ignition module ( dura spark) must be checked as per the manual.
 
Pull back on the throttle as you look down the carb, as you pull back you should see a spray of fuel shoot into the carb. If you do not see a squirt of fuel, I would disconnect the fuel line between the pump and carb and crank the engine to see if the pump pumps fuel out of the line. You only need fuel, air, and spark for a non computer engine to run and you have verified spark, air.
 

69JeepCJ, I have done what you suggested and did see the fuel stream. The confounding part is all I originally did was disconnect the battery, remove the original heater box (had previously removed it all and left the blower out since was replacing, and no issues) and installed new Heater Craft heater (2nd winter without heat, even in coastal NC it has been cold). Then reinstalled battery and tried to crank with only a groan. That is when I went and purchased new battery and got to where I am now. Prior to this when I would start from cold start I had to let it warm up as it would cutoff when I pressed the accelerator, especially when I put into gear the first time. I don't see how heater switch out could cause start issue (problem with being a greenhorn to CJ repair). I take it maybe the original problem just got worse, no clue. I will admit the coil looks like it could be the original one installed in '85 so planning on replacing it anyway.
Thanks to everyone who is offering suggestions/ideas, I really appreciate it.
 
Sounds like the cold start problem is a automatic choke issue, (not set correctly). I think you installing the heater switch did not cause your starting problem. The engine should AT LEAST try to start with fuel, air, spark, the fact that it is not leads me to believe you have a faulty part (coil?) or poor electrical contact somewhere. You can test the coil with a multi meter but I forget how. You can google "testing ignition coil on jeep cj"and should find it. I had to do the same a few years ago but forget how. My coil was putting out power but not enough.
 

It does seem that it might be a cold start problem like 69jepcj said. According to your posts you have both fuel and spark. It might have started the fuel run back syndrome that a lot of old CJs get and just isn't getting enough gas. Try dumping some gas down the throat of the carb and try starting. be care full it doesn't backfire in your face. If it tries to start then we know it's a fuel problem. Another thing to try is, Take the distributor cap and rotor off and see if there's any play in the shaft. Grab the shaft with fingers and wiggle it sideways. If there's any play at all then the distributor needs to be changed. And in play I don't mean fractions of an inch, I mean thousands of an inch. The cap on these old jeeps are so small that any play at all will throw them off. This is just a couple more things to try. It's really hard to guess what's wrong without being there and seeing and hearing what's going on. I don't believe your problem has any thing to do with changing the heater motor.
 
I usually don't get the high out put performance type coils for stock ignitions. I just get the standard replacement at any auto parts store, get one with a INTERNAL resistor, so you don't have to run a external ballist resistor.
 

Well, added a new ignition coil and nothing changed. Checked connections and even switched just to see and still just no change. Now I am really at a loss. Think I will change out spark plugs and wires this coming weekend as the plugs do show corrosion. If that doesn't resolve issue then off to a mechanic. It has been 3 weeks and this is my main vehicle.
 
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