Air conditioning woes

graewulf

New member
New Wrangler

OK, here's my dilemma... the air is not working like it should - probably leaked out over the winter. Now I know it can be recharged but it is the older R-12 which means it needs to be retrofitted for R-134a. I can buy the kit for like $40 to do it myself. Has anyone done this? any advice that you can offer? Or should I just pay a shop to do it.
 

if you have had a leak and the system is empty you first need to find out where the leak is or you will be wasting time and money.

Look for oily spots like the front clutch area of the compressor and all fittings. Once you find the leak and fix it, then you will need a deep vane vacuum pump and a set of manifold guages to do the work(whether you convert or not).
Autozone in my town has both for use under the tool loan program. You just leave a deposit and get you money back when you return the tools.

here is the order in which you need to fix your A/C


1. Find the leak and fix it

2. install the retrofit kit, first try to drain as much of the old mineral oil out as you can, usually if you can get the lower connection off of the condenser enough will drain out. the kit is just basically a few ozs of compatible oil and new fittings that are quick connects and a label letting others know it has been converted. If you break any connection, go back with a new o-ring!!

3. Hook up the vacuum pump with the guages and pull a deep vauum on the system. This removes moisture and test your repair and overall system for leaks. You should be able to get nearly 30 inches of vacuum within the first few minutes of the pull, if you don't , there is a leak. After you get a good reading, let the pump work for about 30-45 min. Then shut it off, and watch the guages for any vacuum drops, this also indicates air leaking into the system.

4. With a good 5 minutes of no guage drop, you can recharge the system. Remember the R-134a uses less in your system than the R-12 did. There are conversion charts all over the web. But a good rule of thumb is start out at 80% of what the system held of R12

I was doing auto a/c in the late 80's and in the early 90's when they first started training on the retrofits and all I have to say is that alot of customers got ripped off. They, (companies like Dayco and Gates) were sending field trainers out tell techs that all of the hoses and o-rings had to be replaced or the R-134a would leak out. Well some of us started doing the retros on our own cars and found out that they were just trying to sell products. A basic retro fit now only should cost the price of the kit and the R-134a, and of course the leak repair if needed.


I still think that the Montreal Protocol was a joke. Yes, CFC'a are bad for ozone, however, R-12 is heavier than air and will not rise naturally. Besides the biggest user of them was Uncle Sam. Dupont had the patent on R-12 and it was about to expire, I think that had alot to do with banning it. Alot has been learned about the ozone layer since then. How it gets thinner and thicker on its own. Sunlight creates ozone, that is why the north and south pole has thinner areas because the sun strikes at an non-direct angle. Americans have always been ask to clean up the world when 3rd world countries like Brazil contribute so much of the CFC's to start with. My anti-enviro rant....

90

I wished I could drive up and help you with it. :lol:
 
RE: Great article by Ben Stein

Looks like a good kit at a really fair price too.



A vacuum pump is a special tool that along with a good set of guages allows you to evacuate the system of air and check for leaks after a repair. If you don't investigate the leak first and just rely on the leak stop, you may get away with it, but I would recommend find the leak if possible and fixing it.


ac6908-4.jpg
 

OK... looks lkike I was wrong. it is R-134a... how touigh would ti be to just top it off? I'm looking at like $200 to have a shop fix it, provided there are no major leaks (I dont think there are any big leaks). I know if it leaked once it will again. I'm bringing it in on thurdsay for a diagnostic test unless i can do it myself with no knowledge of air conditioning systems. Once they do the diag I might as well let them fix it since i'll have to pay for the diag.
 
graewulf,

IF the system is all the way down, you still must evac and recharge after you fix the leak.

If it has some pressure in it, you could just recharge it using the leak stop product. It usually fixes pin holes pretty good.

90
 
I end up having to re-charge mine at the beginning of each summer. It took two cans this year. Simple job. How far are ya from Cherry Hill?
 

Re: Trip to Pecos-- Muddin'

Jules... Manahawkin - maybe 45 min to hour ride (depending on traffic). The system has some charge left, the one cooling line gets cool but not the canister and the air is slightly cool. I'm gonna pick up 2 cans today and try it tomorrow maybe. If you are willing to lend a hand I would certainly appreciate it. An experienced person never hurts.
 
Is the clutch on the compressor engaging when you turn on the Air?
Yeah, traffic toward the shore could get pretty bad at times. When tomorrow are you gonna try it?
 
The clutch is cycling on & off on the air, so there is still eough charge for it to run.. If you're volunteering to help, I'll wait until you are available. Just let me know when... I'll PM you my cell # - I can be free anytime after noon.
 

RE: Oil Pressure Gauge/Sender?

I don't get out of work til 5:30 and have a couple of things today and tomorrow with the kids.

If it's cycling, that's a good thing because it might just need a boost. If you have the kit, add a can and see if the compressor stays on.

Make sure to add it to the low side. That's the port on the passenger side in the engine compartment. The high side is on the compressor and your fill hose shouldn't fit it anyway. It's larger than the low side port. I don't know if your kit has guages. My kit has a single guage that would fit the high and low ports. It included a chart that would give operating pressures for the low and high sides at various ambient temperatures. I don't have it in front of me but if I recall at 80 degrees outside, the low should be 40-50psi, the high should be 175-200psi. Today at 90 degrees, I would guess the low should be 50-55psi, and the high should be 225-250psi. Just a guess. See if you can read the pressure before you add a can. Note the pressure only when the compressor clutch is engaged.

You're supposed to hold the can upright to discharge R134a vapor. I'm a bit of an impatient bastard and have held it upside down for liquid. R134a is a refridgerant stored in cans as a liquid. As the liquid changes state to vapor, it gets cold. At times, when the flow is too fast, it will freeze the can. Mine has never done this to me.

That is basically how an A/C system works. Refridgerant is constantly changing states from liquid to vapor and back again. The compressor compresses the vapor into the condensor which changes it to liquid (getting hot in the process). The evaparator (in your dash) helps change state for liquid to vapor. Going from liquid to vapor chills the evaporator as air is blown thru it (via your blower). There's alot more to it but that's a basic closed system.

go ahead and add a can and tell us what the compressor does.

jules
 
RE: YJ home-made steering linkage questions

I'l stop tonight on the way home & grab a can or 2 and see what happens. I don't have the kit yet.
 
Its nice to be cool again.. thanks for th advice, I refilled it this morning and it is much better now!
 

RE: A Gadget Moment

Excellent!! Nothing quite like A/C on a Humid day! Glad you were able to figure it out.

Jules
 
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