Is All Wheel drive better?

I'm a Jeep guy have been since I was a 18. I'm not the best mechanic but I use the net and other people to fix stuff and get as much info as I can. I have a pretty simple (dumb) question that I would like to ask here because I know that you guys are alot smarter then me when it comes to cars. I'm thinking of getting a newer Cherokee or Grand Cherokee. The question I have is....Does an All wheel drive transmission/transfer case last longer because it isn't disengaged/reengaged constantly switching between 4x2 and 4x4?:???:

I want to Thank you guys in advance for the advice have a good day 8)
 

IMHO a 2 speed selectable transfer case is the way to go for a couple of reasons, one (and most important) being better fuel economy due to less energy being lost due to rotational friction. Second reliability under stress/strength.

most of the full time boxes use a viscus coupler that when force is applied (different wheel speeds would be the inputting force) the coupler locks together, the t-case for all intent and purpose is always in 4wd, the front and rear outputs of the t case are both spinning at the same or close to speeds, when there is an implied force, the coupler will lock, so the speed differential is neglagible between compontents. It does not engage as if you are in 2wd then shifting into 4wd via shift fork and the front assembally is stationary.

as for reliability, this is implied strickly to offroad, most of the cases (xj zj etc...) will have a lowrange capability that does not use a viscus coupler, instead it is lock same as a 2 speed selectable case, but some of the newer WJ, KJ etc... do not have this function, so when wheeling, under stressfull situation, the coupler will not always maintain the locking function.

IMHO, jeep should have made a drivers side D300, improve the case strength and improved the low gearing and done.
 
AWD = More moving parts = Costly repairs IMO
in other words more wear and tear on the drive train
 
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IMHO a 2 speed selectable transfer case is the way to go for a couple of reasons, one (and most important) being better fuel economy due to less energy being lost due to rotational friction. Second reliability under stress/strength.

most of the full time boxes use a viscus coupler that when force is applied (different wheel speeds would be the inputting force) the coupler locks together, the t-case for all intent and purpose is always in 4wd, the front and rear outputs of the t case are both spinning at the same or close to speeds, when there is an implied force, the coupler will lock, so the speed differential is neglagible between compontents. It does not engage as if you are in 2wd then shifting into 4wd via shift fork and the front assembally is stationary.

as for reliability, this is implied strickly to offroad, most of the cases (xj zj etc...) will have a lowrange capability that does not use a viscus coupler, instead it is lock same as a 2 speed selectable case, but some of the newer WJ, KJ etc... do not have this function, so when wheeling, under stressfull situation, the coupler will not always maintain the locking function.

IMHO, jeep should have made a drivers side D300, improve the case strength and improved the low gearing and done.


Thanks for the information its very helpful. I'm thinking of going with a 2000 or 2001 XJ.
 
The XJ was not available with a fulltime transfer case, only the np231 and the np242. The np242 has a full-time 4wd option but it also has 2wd, separating it from the full-time jeeps.

I'd avoid the full-time transfer case in the Grand Cherokee's, they're problematic. The np247 is very finicky as to what fluid is used, and the viscous coupling in the NP249 doesn't seem to last very long.
 

Look for one with a High pinion front Dana 30. Chrysler snuck some low pinion front dana 30s in XJs 99-01. Otherwise Nice rig. Hope you find the Jeep you want.

Thanks very much I had read some stuff about that online but I wasn't sure. What lift kit would you recommend to put on it for a daily driver? I like going off-roading but I still like a smooth ride on the high way. Thanks again
 
If you are staying on stock gears I'd rec a 2-3.5" lift. 31" mud tires. If you cut the fenders or put on bushwackers, you should be able to fit 33"s with that size tire, but on stock gears with 33" MPG will go down a bit and may struggle a bit when crawling. Stock gears with 31" will get decent MPG on freeway and may loose a couple MPG in town. A rear locker or LSD is a good idea either way.
 
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