drive shaft angles? what should they be? help!!

AKASHAJEEP

New member
RE: homeschooling

I just went out today and took some measurements, and am ready to buy some shims and a extension of the yoke to get rid of MY vibes. found out they are being cause by the stock yoke being too short and the driveshaft about to fall off the splines!! (yes she is down for the moment) :(

I took some measurements while under there though to decide on what degree shims to get.
the top of the drive shaft is at 17* while the bottom of the shaft is at 13*. do I just simply subtract the two and get the 4* shims? or is there something else involved? also the top of the rear housing is at 10*
what do you suggest for the degree of shims to be used?
I also have 5.5" of lift in front and 6" in the rear. THX guyz!!
 

All I do (and have always done it this way) is put it to where none of the joints are binding. Just unhook one end of the driveline (Diff. end would work the best) and hold it up a little, turn it, and repeat until there is no binding. Then figure out how much the rear end needs to be adjusted.

It's not all technical or anything, but it works.

Also, on the end with the CV joint, you can grind the stops off. This allows for for a greater driveline angle at the t-case end.

And remeber if you buy a yoke that sticks out longer, your driveline angle will be greater (just a little)
 
RE: homeschooling

What method have you used to lift the rear?

I have an AAL and 1.5" lift shackles in the back and a Skyjacker transfer case drop (no shims). No vibes at 4.5" lift.
 
i started with an rough country 4.5" lift full leaf packs and front coils, with some drop brackets and things. and recently added 1.5" shackels in the rear to even out the lift as I had 5.5' in front and 4.5" in the rear. no wit is at 5.5 in front and 5.5-6 in the rear. i didnt have any problems with teh 4.5 in the rear but with the shackels well, it has gone to hell in a hurry!! LOL I think though withthe yj yoke it will give me more than enough length to get back on the spline and cure my vibes.
I jsut need to figure out what degree shims i need to get things pointed correctly.
 

RE: Re: RE: 2006 FJ - It

btw I dont have any problems with binding. not even all that close. maybe if it drooped quite a bit or something it would bind but wher eit is right now the drive shaft would fall off before that would happen!! LOL
 
the drive shaft is BARLEY hanging on the end of the spline from the transfer case and it has enough up and down play to create vibrations in the drive shaft. when i acclerate and let off the pedal it has a disengaging type sound to it, and sometimes when moving with no power torque it vibrates a little.
 

Your shackles should have rotated the rear pinion upward - probably more than shims would. I think that the vibes you have probably won't be alleviated from shimming the axle, but you're welcome to try.

How much drop do you have on the transfer case? The skyjacker kit I used drops the TC 1.5", which is .5" more than most.
1994-2001 XJ: http://www.quadratec.com/cgi-bin/sg...2&UREQC=3&UREQD=4&FNM=13&UID=2005021019412666
1984-1993 XJ: http://www.quadratec.com/cgi-bin/sg...2&UREQC=3&UREQD=4&FNM=13&UID=2005021019412666
 
I put in a 1" transfer case drop that came with the kit. and thx guyz!! i appreciate the help here!! I need to get this problem fixed right away as she is my daily driver!! I know stupid to lift a daily! !LOL
 
If a 1.5" TC drop doesn't work I see no alternative but a SYE/cv driveshaft. A longer slip yoke may help it from being pulled out, but it won't help the angle any.
 

Sounds like your splines are probably worn out from being like that. I'd say it's new driveline time!! You could just get a longer one while your at it and leave the yoke alone
 
cool, can't wait

88Wrangles said:
Sounds like your splines are probably worn out from being like that. I'd say it's new driveline time!! You could just get a longer one while your at it and leave the yoke alone
it has only been doing this for maybe a week. I have checked the splines and they are no worse than any others with higher milage on them. decent engouh shpae to be used again i assure you.
 
shipping a jeep, couldn't find old posts about this.

I'm just saying, you should probably take it off and put one end in a vise, and try to wiggle it from the other end. If there's ANY movement in the spline area...it is time for a new one. If you leave it, well that, my friend, would cause some vibration...and the repeated buying of new u-joints...and the saying good bye to that spendy CV(if you have one) !!!

It might seem fine now, but once they get worn at all, they like to break/wear faster from off-road use!
 

RE: shipping a jeep, couldn

AKASHAJEEP said:
II know stupid to lift a daily!

Mine's a DD too. It is very hard to drive a stock Jeep everyday. Nothing wrong with giving in to natural temptation when it comes to modding your Jeep!
 
RE: Finally a part of Jersey...

I took the drive line off and checked the teeth on the output shaft on the Tc and it didnt have any major knicks, scoring, or signs or abnormal wearing. the origional U-joints!! (LOL) are stillin great condition considering, and yes they will be replaced.
and no I dont have a sye on it, I prolly sould bout now but, I think that the stock peices will suffice for a while till I can get the money for one. fixed yoke.
 
RE: Re: RE: drive shaft angles? what should they be? help!!

TwistedCopper said:
AKASHAJEEP said:
II know stupid to lift a daily!

Mine's a DD too. It is very hard to drive a stock Jeep everyday. Nothing wrong with giving in to natural temptation when it comes to modding your Jeep!
to think it all started with the rear leafs saggin. :? :twisted:
 

Mine started as a 2" budget boost, then a 3" lift, then I figured what the heck - I'll put both of them on there for 4.5". It truly is a sickness.
 
AKASHAJEEP said:
I took the drive line off and checked the teeth on the output shaft on the Tc and it didnt have any major knicks, scoring, or signs or abnormal wearing.


Check it for play though. I guarantee if I checked that driveline for play, I would find it had quite a bit. And quite a bit really might not seem like that much though.

I'm just trying to help you out, but if you don't want help...should't have posted this :wink:
 
88Wrangles said:
AKASHAJEEP said:
I took the drive line off and checked the teeth on the output shaft on the Tc and it didnt have any major knicks, scoring, or signs or abnormal wearing.


Check it for play though. I guarantee if I checked that driveline for play, I would find it had quite a bit. And quite a bit really might not seem like that much though.

I'm just trying to help you out, but if you don't want help...should't have posted this :wink:
I do appreciate the help you guyz are giving. its jsut that I dont have the money to get a sye kit right now, and need a kind of fix to hold things over for a while till that really is a possiblity.

as for play are you talking about an up and down play or in a twisting motion? left - right?
I do have the up and down play (meaning that the shaft is ready to bounce and break the output shaft off the TC) but as for left and right (twisting play) it isnt that bad realy. never has been. the ujoints that tare in there are still ok as with the output shaft, but the yoke on the driveshaft itself isnt on that output shaft that much and I know it WILL do a lot of damage if I continue to drive her like this. I think that with the addition of a longer slip yoke on the driveshaft it will take a lot of weight and stress off the end of the tc's output shaft.
and to be honest I dont think the shims are an absoutle necissity, jsut something that would help eliveate that stress and make things run a little more friction free!! if there is such a thing? LOL
again I do appreciate your help and suggestion. :)
 

RE: XJ steering problem...

I've had a slipyoke get blown out at the tailshaft housing, not fun. At least you caught it right away. I'd bet it hasn't harmed your output shaft, or the bearings on the mainshaft. You'll want to check the bushing and seal in the tailshaft housing as any lateral play as you described will wear these parts quickly.

The rear output of the transfer case and the pinion of the rear axle should be parallel, period. It's different with a doublecardan driveshaft but don't concern yourself with that. Shim where you need to get those angles parallel, then use a YJ slipyoke or add tube to the driveshaft to get the proper spline engagement at the tailshaft.

Let me know how it turns out.
 
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