how do you water proof a jeep?

YuriSouder

New member
I am going to get a safari snorkel and i was wondering what all the other stuff that i need to do in order to be able to sink the hood. I want to be able to drive this thing through streams as suck without having to worry.
 

Don't forget to extend the axel , transmission, t.case vent tubes where the water can't reach it. try to install Dielectric grease on your electrical connectors to the sensors. it helps against water intrusions and corrosion in the long run. i'm sure i left a lot more info out from "waterproofing" your Rig but that's all that i can think of for now. oh and make sure you don't have a Vacuum leak or your for sure to find it.
 
Yikes! I had a friend whose really nice S10 4x4 got pulled back into a lake after trying to launch a boat which was too big (actually, it was one of your ten thousand!). It was submerged clear up the windows. After it dried out, the thing never ever ran right again. It was one electrical problem after another. Are you sure you don't just want to put the money in a GPS so you can find a bridge?

Better get some good spark plug boots so your plugs don't ground out. If you kill the engine will water back up through the exhaust and into the engine?
 
One think you'll notice is that your axles / transmission / and transfer case will draw in water, as SteelHeadz mentioned. They have lines coming out of them to vent, and as you are running along, they will heat up and the air inside will expand. When you hit cold water, the air will constrict, as if your axle is breathing in. If your vent line is under water, instead of drawing in air, your axle will inhale water.
 

Do you have a distributor? If so, you'll need to seal that up pretty well... And, make sure you have NEW tight fitting spark plug wires. If these things leak you'll stall. The military M series vehicles (which were made to ford water) had highly specialized waterproof ignition systems. On these trucks you can not even see the distributor cap (it's inside a sealed "ignitor" unit). They had enclosed spark plugs and rubber packing glands at each end of the plug wires. You should change all fluids after swimming. Also, this is a manual transmission, right? Best of luck -John
 
HOLY SH%$!!!!! thats allot more then i thought. Looks like i have some research to do. Keep me posted if you think of anymore helpful hints.
 
Just kind of tagging along on this, how come you asked if it was manual? i have an automatic, what does that mean? thanks
 

Just as an FYI, not sure if it's totally necessary here but Molex makes a great waterproof power connector. I don't honestly remember the name of it but if you happen to find it on their website (or call their tech support) you can then get FREE SAMPLES. This is true for any of their connectors and their system won't stop you from getting free samples until you place a number of orders inside of a month. I used to work there a few years ago so. You might have to sign up in their system which means you might get random emails every once in a blue moon but I think you can also order a free catalog if you're that interested...lol...just don't be surprised if a sales guy drops buy your garage or gives you a call sometime.
 
Just kind of tagging along on this, how come you asked if it was manual? i have an automatic, what does that mean? thanks
Either way it's going to have a vent tube. A manual transmission just have an extra vulnerable area for water intrusion, the shift boot on top of the trans .
 
I perfer to stay out of water and out of mud. it will get into components that it shouldn't, create electrical gremlins, destroy parts, and personally, not much of a challange when it comes to driving.

You can move vent tubes, add snorkles, seal this and that... water will probably get in.
 

I can tell you from experience, stay outta the water its one headache after another
 
Dan 9 i dont now why crazyfordiesels was asking if it was a auto transmission. But auto transmissions have alot of more precision built parts that have to stay within certain tolerances. Like valve bodies they are in the lower unit of the transmission and the least little moisture or grit can cause them to stick witch in return will make your transmission not shift and act really funny. Not to mention the torque converter has fins in it that help aid in cooling and movement of the fluid, water and grit really takes a toll on them. I wouldnt recomend running in water that deep and if i did it surely wouldnt be with an automatic. Just my opinion
 

I went a bit too deep with my 98 with auto last year. I apparently sucked a bit of water into the transmission, it wouldn't shift out of 2nd. I ended up flushing the transmission out a couple times and fixed'er right up! I'm not recommending you become a U-boat commander, but sometimes it's just too tempting! Do all you can to waterproof it and have fun. That's why we drive Jeeps for anyway, right?

(BTW, I extended all my vent tubes and use dielectric grease on every electrical connection I can get to and besides the aformentioned problem, nothing major wrong YET!)
 
You could saran-wrap your whole Jeep except for the wheels because that would be stupid. You can't really saran-wrap wheels and still drive... you know...:crazy:
 
Just kind of tagging along on this, how come you asked if it was manual? i have an automatic, what does that mean? thanks

Hey Dan9, Sorry I haven't got back to you on this... Manual vs Auto because most manuals have a vent that can easily be extended. Some water will probably still get in but, as long as you change the oil when you're done, you probably won't hurt it too much. I don't know about the "new" automatics out there ("new" as in after 1980) but the ones I've worked on had the vent right at the top of the oil pump inside the bell housing. There is no easy way to extend it. Water in an automatic will be very hard to get out (it will get into all the hyrdaulics) and will probably cause damage. Best of luck - John
 

i think i am just going to get a ****ty samurai to drowned rather then my baby
 
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