Whats a good electric cooling fan and controller?

Dittrich31

New member
I have a 95 rio grande 2.5l and have decided to do a 62mm throttle body and spacer and remove the air flow restrictor and electric cooling fan, that is where my problem comes from. I have heard that a ford taurus cooling fan works but will my factory shroud work, do I need one? And what about a fan controller, what is a good controller and where do I find one? Ive looked but am worried about buying products online because Im not sure what is correct or not. So please be as specific as you can that would be great. Thanks.
 

I use an electronic module from Carquest to control my electric fan. It has a probe that goes on the fins of the Radiator to take the temp. readings and automatically turns the fan on when the Temp. setting on the module is reached.
 
Taurus fan is awesome, I run one on my jeep (simply wired into the ignition with two switches, one for hi and one for low) and I also have one in my hot rod, the one in the hot rod has a control unit, I forget the name of the brand, I will look it up, but it was ony like $60 and it controls hi and low, plus when the AC is on as well as a bunch of other things. I will search for it.
 
Fan Control

found it, price went up a bit though. Also, you remove the original shroud all together.


Edit, regardless on how you wire it, fan or switches, you will need to use a relay for each speed, the Hi is a 80 amp I think and low is a 65.. Been a while since I wired one up, I advise searching the net for actual specs and part numbers.
 
That's the correct 2speed fan. The fan mounts easily to the YJ radiator, redrill a hole or two on one side, and use two small L brackets on the other side to attach to the holes for the OEM shroud.

If you get the controller from DC Control (linked above), you need no relays and no additional wiring but for a switch to turn it off for water crossings, if that's your thing. The nice thing about the variable controller from DC Control is it turns the fan on gradually, no high amp draw at startup like every other controller. It also only spins as fast as needed to keep the engine cooler, so running amps are lower. You can set the temp where it kicks on.

They have a cheaper controller out now from DC Control, it's simply a 2spd controller and either on or off, no variable control.
 

I second the FoMoCo/DCC combo; I've run it for almost 3 years without issues. In my case, I do have it connected to a switch so I can turn it off for river crossings...
 
thanks alot guys, I called the junk yard near me and am going this weekend to go diggin one out. Ill let you know how this goes. New question. I have read about how to remove air flow restrictors from the air box, would you recommend that? I feel like it was put in there for a purpose.
 
I took mine out (both of them). Keep in mind, they were designed for the engine with the stock TB, stock ignition, and stock injectors. In my case, I have a larger bore TB (62mm with 62mm with spacer), improved ignition (PD FirePower with plugs gapped at .060" instead of the stock .035"), and 19# mustang injectors, so I need the increased flow of air... I also have a snorkel (with ram) that acts as CAI, high flow air filter, high flow cat and cat back system. The point is you have to make things work together, not individually...

In the case of the fan, what you are doing is freeing up some ponies when driving at highway speeds.

Felipe
 
Is that new? granted I did the swap ~8 years ago, mine did require extra relay for hi.

I installed mine 3 years ago and no relay was necessary... I di have a relay on the low speed, but that's just because I wanted a plan B at that time (I did not know how good the DCC was, and I did not want to risk it) and it is a completely separate circuit that I have (honestly speaking) only used to test it...
 
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