95 Wrangler Check Engine Light On-Won't Start

[curiouskitty]

A simple question with, I assume, many possible answers from a perpetual Jeep novice...Simply put, my 1995 Jeep Wrangler YJ 2.5/4 cylinder/automatic won't start. The check engine light comes on instead. A few days ago, it was running great--no odd sounds or activity. The battery is fine, distributor cap and rotors replaced. Ideas, suggestions? Thanks in advance for your anticipated responses.

 

[jps4jeep]

need more info. Does it crank? Does nothing? Cranks slow?is there Fuel pressure at the rail? as much info as possible

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

Check all the fuses in the PDC (under the hood) very closely for a blown fuse.

 

[curiouskitty]

Please forgive my limited knowledge of cars...here's as much info as possible: Gas tank is 3/4 full-gauge is fine; is there Fuel pressure at the rail?--I don't understand this. Battery seems to be working fine but I did the window wiper test--on the fastest level, it moves rather slowly. As for the dashboard lights/headlights test, hard for me to discern previous/current light intensity. When I turn the ignition key, the only sound I get is a soft purring sound that comes form the ignition area/base of the steering wheel. No cranking sounds, actually no sounds other than the purring mentioned. Check engine light comes on when I turn the key. In essence, it does nothing at the turn of the key. Before this discovery, I had washed the car a few days beforehand and had the Jeep running at the same time--which I have done many times in the past. So of course, this came as a total surprise. Hope this info helps. Thanks!

 

[glenn beck]

for a novice start simple: take battery off and get a store like autoparts to load test it. the noise is proberly a rattling solinoid on the starter caused by lack of voltage/amps from the battery.

 

[jfrabat]

OK, for fuel pressure, there is a rail (a pipe, if you will) on the driver side of the engine (this is where the injectors are; my injectors are the little yellow thingies to the right of the valve cover, the bright black thing in the center).

On the rail there should be a schreider (sp?) valve; think of it as a bigger version of the valve you use to fill the tires. Take the plastic cover off, and press the center of the valve. Just like the air would flow out of the tires, if you have fuel pressur (make sure you turned on the ignition with the key to prime it), fuel should flow out (use a rag to avoid spilling gas all over the place!).

But I doubt this is your issue; I think you have a dead battery, by the sound description you make.

 

[88Wrangles]

Does the check engine light actually stay on with the key left in the "on" position? Or does it come on, then go off after like 3-5 seconds?

 

[mud4feet]

If all was fine before, it sounds to me like a battery problem. Either connections or a bad battery. First off, I'd clean off the battery cables thoroughly (wire brush or equivelant). If that didn't help, I'd take the battery to a local parts place to be tested (as previously mentioned). You stated that the battery is fine, but you really never know how good it is if is not tested "under load". If it tested bad, I'd buy a new battery and go from there. Good luck and keep us posted.

 

[curiouskitty]

Thank you everyone for your responses--you are all so helpful! In response to the question, Does the check engine light actually stay on with the key left in the "on" position? Or does it come on, then go off after like 3-5 seconds?, the answer is that is that it comes on and then goes off after 3-5 seconds.

 

[88Wrangles]

...the answer is that is that it comes on and then goes off after 3-5 seconds.

That's normal. It's just showing you that the light does work. I'd check the battery and positive and negative connections

 

[jfrabat]

It's normal, but not all codes will light up the CEL; some codes are stored (off hand, I know 11 and 54, which were the last 2 I got) but will not light up the CEL.