Alternator/battery problem

[cali_92]

i know that but why is it only putting out 11 or so and not 12-14?
prob a draw/ bad connection somewhere. just dont know where

 

[JPNinPA]

i know that but why is it only putting out 11 or so and not 12-14?
prob a draw/ bad connection somewhere. just dont know where

Your flip flopping here. Is the 11 amps or volts?? You mention about 12A and now refer to this number as volts. Big difference in what we're discussing. Not trying to come down on you, but these details make troubleshooting much easier.
I want to help.
What exactly was checked? How? And what were the findings.

 

[superj]

Yup.

Amps kill, volts don't

 

[cali_92]

yea i dont even kno anymore. im giving up, just gonna take it to a shop.
i got the multimeter but it broke so that was the last staw.
Merry Christmas to all who helped.
thank you.
i'll post what the problem was when its fixed

 

[cali_92]

i was thinking while i was getting the electrical fixed. why not get a whole new wiring kit? anyone know of where the best place to get the whole kit? comments suggestions.
thanks

 

[JPNinPA]

Sorry to hear this. Keep us posted when or if you get it fixed. Happy Holidays

 

[cali_92]

pretty embarrassed, a relay here, a fuse there, a couple connection and a wire. $60 later problem fixed on to other things. thanks for all your help. happy holidays

 

[superj]

at least it was easy cheap fixes.

 

[JPNinPA]

Do you have and did you check the alternator output fuse ( F10) in the power distribution block. I was looking at this for your headlight issue. (F6 possibly??)

 

[Utah_jeepster]

First off never pull a lead off the battery while the vehicle is running, on OBD 1 and OBD II type of vehicles, that old trick worked well with non-computerized vehicles. With OBD controled vehicles loss of power to the ECM can cause fatal errors in the ECM while power flows in some circuits and none to the main power feed. I have had to tell many of people that there ECM was fried because they have done this little trick, and still it wasnt the main problem that led them to try that old trick.
P.S. Your OBD 1 starts at 177$ without the core charge.

Now first off you need to take your ride down to a local AutoZone, Pep-Boys, or Napa. They have a free service that tests the Battery, Starter, and the Alternator in the parking lot, still inside your ride.
Even a new Alternator, battery and or starter can be bad, trust nothing here.
If the Alternator isn't putting out 13.9 amps min, you will never properly "re-charge" your battery. If the field tester says your alt isn't putting out enough , strip it off the vehicle and take it in to be bench tested. Another free service...

Now if the bench test shows bad, replace it....if it is good then you have a short somewhere.
Most places like Big O , Goodyear, and Firestone will have a competent mechanic on duty that can trace down this problem for 25$-35$.

 

[JPNinPA]

pretty embarrassed, a relay here, a fuse there, a couple connection and a wire. $60 later problem fixed on to other things. thanks for all your help. happy holidays

Glad to hear you got this fixed.

On another note I don't know why your post here wasn't viewable when I sent the above post with diagram. Well anyway.... Talk to you next year.

 

[spymonkey360]

I have a 94 wrangler with a 4.0 having the same issue after swaping engines ....good altinator and battery and no radio can't figure it out it ran good for the first four days.

 

[superj]

whats your volts at the battery?