Strange no start this morning

Well I think I found the 'smoking gun' on this issue. Bearing in mind that prior to this issue all spark plugs were light brown to tan in color having about 50 hours on them, and since the issue they were fuel fouled black.

Which one of these is different from the other? :lol:

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The center float is fuel logged ( or in this photo , water logged ? ) which most certainly will cause a rich condition . I've never tried to reflow solder on a float for fear of combustion so I'd say it's best to order new floats . Good job. Sorry I didn't post that , I've always included new floats on carb rebuilds. I'll be in detention.
 

From JpN's earlier post;
When you did all the wiring clean up, did you replace the battery power and grounds?

Your engine is grounded as well?

I replaced/upgraded the battery wiring a couple of years ago when I added a second battery for the winch.
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Got a hydralic crimper
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and made my own battery terminal ends. I also used the 3M thick wall heat shrink tubing with the adhesive inside and it really made for a professional result.

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To divide charging power to the two batteries I got a Stinger high amp switch.
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For the rest of the undehood electrical I ran a primary line to this Ford PDB and the to headlights, for and driving lights, the Mystique fan with room left over for other projects.
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With regard to the grounds I used 6 gauge welding wire from the battery post to the chassis, body and motor slathering each connection with dielectric grease.
Note: If you buy dielectric grease from NAPA the large tube is disproportionately a great value when compared to the smaller tubes when it come to cost.
 
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Happy that BB is well again. The "heavy float " was a contributor to the rich condition but the missing main jets were a complete surprise ! That could have only been found on a tear down . Once again , good job !
 

I reckon I spoke too soon, it was running, until I changed out the fuel fouled Autolite plugs with Bosch (7922) ones. Going to try and clean up those Autolites this weekend.
 
I'm getting right discouraged about this. What with little time to work on it, and little funds to take her to a shop.
 
I don't think you'll have to take BB to a shop since I know your capable all on your own . Can't hurt to double check spark but I doubt that is the problem. Do you think that the carburetor may need more adjusting and a rich condition is to blame ? Or even a lean condition now ?
 

Well, after changing out the spark plugs (3rd time) and the motor still running wayy too rich even with the air screws screwed all the way in (gently) and after a short time of rough running still the plugs loaded up. I was at a loss of where to go next on this carb. I removed it and dumped the fuel out and returned it to my bench to let 'er air out overnight.
Last night with that fitful sleep that the CKRAP machine affords me I had a remembering dream of my bike, that runs a Bendix 1 barrel carb. Years ago I had a similar issue and the fuel inlet needle was stuck in the seat, so other than another perforated float (these are new floats) I don't know where to go next.
 
No pressure regulator on this one stock fuel pump, with plenty of fuel when removed from the carb. I've removed the carb once again and I've adjusting the floats downward to 15/32" to adjust the amount of fuel in the bowls. I sure hope this does the trick.
 
Edit: That being said my best friend went through this and after he added a pressure regulator his truck ran fine. However he couldn't remember if he had replaced the fuel pump before or after the regulator.
 

Well I decided to return the carb back to it's original state, removed the two secondary jets and set the floats back to 9/32. Going to try again today and if it still floods out I got a Mr. Gasket fuel pressure regulator at the reccomendation of my best friend, however I remain dubious that this would have any affect.:scratch:
 
Well mr. Turbogus , I understand your approach to this problem. Your taking the experimental approach to test cause and effect. Can't say I blame you at all . You did the right thing and the problem still occurred ? Might as well try something different to see if change takes effect. Still wondering if jet size change is the answer like those tuner kits have but I'm figuring your after that answer right now. Admittedly , this is working out quite perplexing as it is patience testing but admire your will to get BB back to fighting strength again. Funny thing is , this model carb was designed to overcome some of the problems the original AFB had and now is suffering the. Same ! It's becoming a tuning type session like one would do at a drag strip but this carb is capable of this . Was just hoping a stock setting would have worked as you would want too . Hang on to that fuel pressure regulator , you just never know.
 
Some thoughts:
You were running fine with missing jets and maybe a heavy float. For this to run you need lots of air to get to a combustible air/fuel mixture. When you first fixed the carb without the jets you may have fixed a intake leak. With the leak fixed you ran rich until everything fouled and quit.

Currently you still can't start. I have to wonder, Is it an air fuel issue or spark? If air fuel is it too much air or too much fuel?
 

Before any of my combustion troubles began I would occasionally check plug color as a part of preventative maintenance (a lift of the lynch lid to Connie Rod) and it ran from tan to light brown. Then I figure the no start was that sunken float closing off the fuel supply for combustion. Ran a full and complete spark check using the steps in the TSM and even repaced the coil that was approaching marginal condition but was not yet out of spec. and still produces strong bright spark at the plug~despite the fouling.
Yesterday, I attempted a startup with the carb returned to pre trouble state. I noticed fuel slosh from the Air Horn that I cannot account for, I was not blipping the throttle so the fuel was not being sprayed by the Acellerator Pump Discharge Needles. I think the next step is to install that fuel regulator after all and see what affect it has~although this still seems to me to be fixing the symptom rather than curing the real cause.
 
Agreeing with you to find the cause and a solution and not just a fix. Of course it seems counter-productive to remove parts that the carburetor was manufactured with and intended to run with . It seems right now that this problem is in an experimental stage to find the real cause and on to the fix which obviously is why your resorting to removing the metering rods and jets returning it to previous repair state. I'm guessing you'll try the pressure regulator with and without the metering rods and jets to see the difference and hope one of these actions will fix ? Very disheartening that this carb isn't working right but is certainly unexpected. Vic Edelbrock jr. will not be pleased either !
 
Well, installed that FPR and it had no effect on any setting 1 - 6. Right discouraging that. Back to square one it seems and with summer running out it's going to be a long winter for this project.

I found this post interesting from another forum;
FYI, a OEM-style bypass fuel filter, with a return line to the tank, will regulate the fuel pressure just a like a FPR will.
 
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