Alignment issues

[mmello13]

Ok so I know I've posted a million times on here for different problems. I have a a 2013 jku rubi with a 4 in lift rough country, teraflex adjustable track bars and teraflex alpine control arms a superlift steering stabilizer and Adams 1350 driveshaft front and rear. Every time I get an alignment it seems my toe is off. I still have an extreme shake in my steering wheel and I don't know what else to do. Anybody have any ideas what could be wrong? I just went yesterday to get everything aligned and they said they got my toe and caster almost perfect and camber is off a little but the only thing to fix that is the adjustable ball joints. This is a picture of yesterday's alignment.

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[k-2]

I do not see this so i gotta ask have we looked at -
wheel balance,
wheel bearing hub assy.
ball joints/studs.....

 

[mmello13]

Just replaced my driver wheel bearing bc it was bad ball joints are good and in place of weights I had them used those sand bag things. Never tried before but worked well for a while.

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[k-2]

isn't it a camber issue on R/S and you did hub on driver L/S?

Why not try the conventional wheel balance weights -

 

[mmello13]

I tried but off roading always shifts them

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[k-2]

But looks like the ball joints* are in your future - just hoping to check everything before that route

*adjustable = MOOG is my brand of choice

 

[mmello13]

I would think that offroading would shift those adjustable ball joints though no?

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[JPNinPA]

You obviously backed into that spot so things look off. Could you stop your vehicle after pulling forward at least 20 ft and snap a pic of the full axel ant tires. In this pic with all the shadows the axel looks bent inwards at the tires.
Also get a pic of the front and rear drive shaft to rear pinion.

How much backspacing on the wheels and are you using spacers?



Regards,
JPNinPA

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[mmello13]

Ok I'll take pics soon. I have 4.5 back spacing i think it was. It's the max for the high steer kit. No spacers anymore.

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[mmello13]

Didn't realize reversing into a spot would throw the toe off. The first 2 drive shaft pics are front. Others are back. Let me know of you need anything else or different angles.

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[JPNinPA]

Here is an easy alignment check. Larger tires will run different than stock values.

http://www.stu-offroad.com/steering/align/align-1.htm

The front end image I was hoping to see if anything could be loosening after the alignment. Like an adjustment sleeve.
Also to see if there is a bend in the front tube.

Lastly the front pinion angle should point to the transfer case connection. Your front may be off.

Regards,
JPNinPA

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[mmello13]

I have jam nuts on my tie rod and adjustment sleeves on my track bars and drag link. My control arms you have to disconnect to adjust them.

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[JPNinPA]

In your first post above you state every time you get it aligned the toe is off. Are you doing any heavy wheeling or off roading to cause this?

Is everything tight? Did you do a dry steer test? Were you able to road or high speed balance the tires? No bent rims?

the TREs set the toe.
Camber really shouldn't change.the lift and adjustable control arms will effect it but it looks like the front pinion angle is not aligned with the drive shaft so it shouldn't have made much of a difference. The lower caster will put you up on the tire more so there is less resistance to oscellation. This should be set to 4.5 to regain some control.


Regards,
JPNinPA

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[mmello13]

I don't know anything you said on the last paragraph. Haha. I don't do heavy wheeling. I did go to the go topless this year but that was like a grand total of 20 minutes of wheeling. Lol

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[mmello13]

In your first post above you state every time you get it aligned the toe is off. Are you doing any heavy wheeling or off roading to cause this?

Is everything tight? Did you do a dry steer test? Were you able to road or high speed valance the tires? No bent rims?

the TREs set the toe.
Camber really shouldn't change.the lift and adjustable control arms will effect it but it looks like the front pinion angle is not aligned with the drive shaft so it shouldn't have made much of a difference. The lower caster will put you up on the tire more so there is less resistance to oscellation. This should be set to 4.5 to regain some control.


Regards,
JPNinPA

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Sorry didn't finish in last post. No bent rim that I noticed. Everything is tight although when o got the jeep back it was missing a bolt on 1 control arm a nut on another and another nut and bolt on a different control arm was loose. I replaced the 2 that were missing and tightened the other on down.

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[JPNinPA]

I don't know anything you said on the last paragraph. Haha. I don't do heavy wheeling. I did go to the go topless this year but that was like a grand total of 20 minutes of wheeling. Lol

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So you don't understand?? Sometimes I don't either. Ha Ha now that right there is funny. Sometimes true too. Ha

So you don't do any heavy wheeling but your toe is off every time you get it aligned???
Something must be or has loosened.
If all is tight and the TREs, wheel bearings and ball joints are good with zero play the toe should not change.
I'd start with a dry steer test. Make sure nothing is loose or has too much play including the control arms. Do a ball joint and wheel bearing test.


JPNinPA
Using Jeepz.com app

 

[JPNinPA]

If all of that passes then check that your control arms are adjusted so the drive shaft lines up with the pinion shaft. Hen they don't line up you could get vibes from binding.


JPNinPA
Using Jeepz.com app

 

[mmello13]

If all of that passes then check that your control arms are adjusted so the drive shaft lines up with the pinion shaft. Hen they don't line up you could get vibes from binding.


JPNinPA
Using Jeepz.com app

Ok I'll look into that. What are the key items to go make sure they are tight? Obviously pitman arm, TRE's, control arms, drag link and everything on the brake and wheel bearing. Anything else?

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[JPNinPA]

The dry steer test is someone moving the steering back and forth from stop to stop while you look at all the below components for movement.
You could check Terry's write up on DW.

Start at the pitman arm. As the pitman arm moves so should the drag link. No play or slop.
Then the drag link to the tierod or the knuckle it's hard to see in your pic if you have a high steer or stock. And how the components line up.
Again zero slop or movement.
Next each side of the tie rod. No slop in the ends.
From there look at both ends of the track bar. Often the axel side is worn or the bolt diameter is too small for the holes in the frame or in the collet in the bushing. In worn bushings the bashing squishes allowing movement. There should be almost none.
Then inspect the control arms at both ends. There is not a lot of force at these points so little to no movement is expected. I've seen some either take a pry ar between the bracket and eye end to try to force some movement. Or use a Jack to apply pressure. Again there should be zero movement.


Regards,
JPNinPA

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[JPNinPA]

To check ball joints Jack and support the axel. Take a pry bar under the tire and lift while someone looks at the ball joints. There should be no movement in the ball joint.

To check the wheel bearing grab the tire at 3&9 ans rock from 3to9 you should feel no play or clicking.


Regards,
JPNinPA

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