TJ Trouble

paintmaine

New member
1072180

Ok, so im a little confused. I went out to take a little ride in my 97 TJ about a half hour ago. But when i turned the key.... just.. nothing. Like you could hear some electrical activity i guess, but no cranking of the engine. So, thinking maybe i just have a short in the starter, i tapped it with a stick and tried the ignition again. Well Now it will crank but it just wont fire. It will just keep cranking as long as i hold the key. Please help? I'm not a mechanic but any advice would be greatly appreciated
[addsig]
 

1072182

Welcome to the board hope we can get you some answers here. 1st do you have a 4 banger or In line 6? Tug[addsig]
 
1072184

Its a 4 banger right now, though I have plans for an chevy small block perhaps ;) I like to think big, but right now i'd just lvoe to get my little monster back on the road. So its a 4 cylinder 97 wrangler... that wont start... heh[addsig]
 

1072186

I love a four banger myself! check your codes! Do you know how that works? tug[addsig]
 
1072187

Try this!
Start with the ignition off. Within five seconds, switch the key on,
off, on, off, on. (On is not start!)

The "check engine" light will flash. Count the flashes
Each code is a two digit code, so a (for example) 23 would be
FLASH FLASH---FLASH FLASH FLASH

It will never flash more than 9 times, watch for pauses!

55 is end of codes, 33 is normal if you dont have air conditioning.

Please note that some codes are NOT included below, this
is not a complete listing, but it IS very close to complete.

88 Start of test (This only appears on DRBII, it's not blinked out)
11 No ignition reference signal detected during cranking (bad hall
effect)
OR timing belt skipped one or more teeth; or intermittent
loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor
12 Memory Standby power lost (battery cable disconnected)
13* No change in MAP from start to run
14* MAP sensor circuit open or shorted; voltage too low
15 No speed/distance sensor signal
16* Loss of battery voltage detected with engine running
17 Engine stays cold too long (bad thermostat)
21 Oxygen sensor signal out of range, possibly shorted
22* Coolant sensor signal out of range (or disconnected to set timing)
23 Intake air temperature signal out of range
24* Throttle position circuit out of range
25 Automatic Idle Speed (AIS) motor driver circuit shorted
or target idle not reached, vacuum leak found
26 Peak injector circuit voltage has not been reached
27 Logic module fuel circuit internal problem
OR
27 TBI injector does not respond properly to control signal
31 Evaporator Purge solenoid circuit open or shorted OR
Evaparator solenoid circuit
32 EGR system failure OR
Power loss lamp open or shorted
33 Air conditioning clutch relay circuit open or shorted
34 Speed control vacuum or vent solenoid circuits open or shorted
35 Cooling fan relay circuit open or shorted
36 Wastegate control circuit open or shorted
37 Shift indicator light failure, 5-speed (blown bulb) OR
Park/neutral switch failure
OR
37 Torque converter unlock circuit open or shorted, A-413 4-speed auto
41* Alternator field control circuit open or shorted
42 Automatic shutdown relay circuit open or shorted
42 Fuel pump relay control circuit
42 Fuel level unit - no change over miles
OR
42 Z1 voltage missing when autoshutdown circuit energized (whatever
that means)
43 Peak primary coil current not achieved with max dwell time
OR
43 Cylinder misfire
43 Problem in power module to logic module interface
44 No FJ2 voltage present at logic board
OR
44 Logic module self-diagnostics indicate problem
OR
44 Battery temperature out of range (see Note #1!)
45 Turbo boost limit exceeded (engine was shut down by logic module)
46* Battery voltage too high during charging or charging system
voltage too low
47 Battery voltage too low and alternator output too low
51 Oxygen sensor stuck at lean position
OR
51 Internal logic module fault ('84 turbo only)
52 Oxygen sensor stuck at rich position
OR
52 Internal logic module fault ('84 turbo only)
53 Logic module internal problem
54 No sync pickup signal during engine rotation (turbo only)
OR
54 Internal logic module fault ('84 turbo only)
55 End of codes
61 "baro" sensor open or shorted
62 EMR mileage cannot be stored in EEPROM
62 PCM failure SRI mile not stored
63 Controller cannot write to EEPROM
64 Catalytic converter efficiency failure
65 Power steering switch failure
[addsig]
 
1072189

Check my codes? I dont think I quite udnerstand. And lol, no im not exactly sure how anything works mechanicly, though i have a general idea i think. I havent had a chance to really get greasy and familiarize myself with my little monster with a good ole' college try, but if someone would kindy tell me where to start as far as this ignition problem i'd be happy to! Could the starter be bad? I mean it is cranking its just not catching, maybe something electrical i could check? maybe a spark plus or somehing just went? A fuse somwhere? ok now my head is just spinning so I have to stop. I could always get a mechanic to look at it, but i'd love the self satisified feeling i would get should i fix it myself. thanks for your help guys.[addsig]
 

1072191

alright, i got a 12 and then a 55... i think unless i somehow screwed that up. As far as i can tell however my bettery cables are connected and it is cranking which wouldnt happen if the cables wernt connected right? Maybe clean the connections with a wire brush?[addsig]
 
1072270

ok well heres an update, and mow im even more confsued. This morning i went outside to start it... and it ran. It soudned like it was ideling a bit low. So i turned it off and tired it again and again it caught and fired, but just barly. Then the third time i tried the ignition it just cranked and didnt catch. Is this indicitive of a specific malfunction?[addsig]
 
1072279

You say it did not catch? I do not get your meaning. Did the starter turn the engin over and it just not fire? If the starter does not turn over the engin it sounds like you may have a starter or silinode bad there. Now that it has ran again do the code thing again to see what comes up. Tug[addsig]
 

1072282

no the engine is turning over, its just not firing. I did the check again and ocne again im getting a 12 and then a 55. (beleive it or not not only do the flashed tell you but the odometer flashes the number as well) Would a spark plug be the culprit? it seems like the starter is working but the fuel just isnt ignight in the cylinders. thanks for your help[addsig]
 
1072288

Check the Crank Position Sensor (CPS) and Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) to make sure they are on tight. The CPS almost fell off a buddy's TJ after one bolt backed itself all the way out and the second part-way.

The CPS is on the bellhousing, between the firewall and the engine, reaching from the driver's side.

The back of the throttle body (firewall side).

Sounds like a bad or dirty sensor. Consider removing and cleaning the throttle body and it's TPS and IAC sensor, IAC is on the passenger side of the throttle body.[addsig]
 
1072293

When it did run, did it run rough? You could have fouled out Plugs or the Plug cables could be bad or your Rotor. All of these are easily replaced. Replace all of these and when you pull the Plugs look closely at them. Is there any Oil?

Now the ting about tapping your Starter and getting the 12 code. If you only checked your battery connection you are only 1/3 of the way there. Check where the Cable connects to the Starter and the Altenator. If the wires from the battery to these is loose seems you would still get that code. I am thinking Starter (due to the tapping you explained). Also, there is a device that will allow you to start an engin with a screwdriver. I believe this is the Ignition silinoid. Check the Wires there also.[addsig]
 

1072322

alright, after pulling off the air workings and getting down to the trotle body ive checked that all sensors were tight etc. As far as cleaning them? what should i clean and what should i pull apart? I crawled under the jeep to make sure the cps was tight. So maybe a problem with the engine getting gas? or spark? ive gotten it to turn over once more today, so what part could account for a problem that occursd a majority of the time but not all of it? once again, thanks for all your help guys[addsig]
 
1072335

new update, well if you give it gas at just the right time while turning the key it will fire. But you have to keep your foot on the accelerator, because it will die if just left to idle. Any ideas from any1? Maybe fuel related issue?
[addsig]
 
1072337

I ran into the same problem 3 days ago on my '98 4 cylinder. After is finally started I kept it at about 3K RPM for about 3 minutes. I stopped on my way home and filled up with some 93 octane and put in some fuel injector cleaner. I haven't had a problem since. It did rain a for a few days leading up to my problem though. I just bought some Bosch-2 plugs last night. Only problem is that I can't get the plug wires off! Anyone else have a problem with the wires? [addsig]
 

1072342

well i'll be damned, i reved up the engine and got it started, took a ride, put in some 93 octane and it seems to be working fine for now. What i noticed however was when i went to let it idle it would drop real low... like 400 rpms then it would seem to catch itself and push itself back up to just under 1000. It only did this a few times and now it just seems to go right to 1000 instead of dropping. Maybe a new throtel body at somepoint? Anyway, now that its running im back to dreaming... you know 3 inch suspension lift, dana 44's (any1 know where to find those?) and maybe an engine swapout? Any idea anybody? I'd like to thank tug and every1 els for all their help.[addsig]
 
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