A Magical Cure???

Hardtop Paint

A magical cure???

My CJ had the characteristic valve cover oil leak and a slight oil drip at the crank rear seal. Neither leak was serious, so I have just ignored both leaks.

A few weeks ago, I replaced a defective PCV valve and all associated hosing on the Bubbacon's I-6. Having wwwaaayyy too much free time on my hands, I also degreased and cleaned the motor.

Lo and behold, both oil leaks have since stopped.

My theory is that the defective PCV valve put the engine under excessive internal pressure. That excessive pressure vented off through the valve cover gasket and crank rear seal, forcing some oil by the valve cover gasket and rear seal in the process.

That is my theory, but I would like to hear your theories for this seemingly magical cure of the Bubbacon's oil leaks.

I have done nothing else to the engine related to oil leaks: no oil changes, no mechanic-in-a-can sealing oil additives -- nada.

Any theories?

Gadget
 

that would be my guess as well... when we just supercharged BBJ's camaro... we forgot to unhook the pcv system from the intake... oops... here comes a load of pressure in the crank case... BOOM, there goes the oil pan gasket
 
jhiggins,

Oh, I am happy about the unintended, but good, consequences of the PCV valve change.

But, on those rare occasions when I do something right, I want to know how I did it.

Trust me! -- I am not always sure.

Regards, :mrgreen:

I-Gadget
 

LMAO ....I got ya ...Well I am glad all is well and keep amazing yourself on fixes and you will hane a new jeep soon....:)
 
Ever left someone stranded???

Kind of related to this but the inline 6 has a pittyfull oil cap. Mine leaks so bad I hate it bought a new one at autozone still a loose fit, tryed my luck at NAPA and got the same crumby cap in a different box. I applyed two large o rings to the oil cap under the two teeth that hold it down but not sure this is going to stop the blow by at the cap. Any ideas! tug
 

Tug,

Long-distance trouble shooting is always a risky proposition, but I cannot help but wonder if the blowby around the Tugly oil filler cap is actually a symptom of a different problem.

When pics of Tugly were posted, I looked at the engine pic to ID the carb. I was unsuccessful at that, but I did notice that at least one rubber hose appeared to be disconnected and plugged -- see pic, the left yellow circle. Also, the hose leading away from the PCV is going off to parts unknown and might also be disconnected and plugged -- see pic, the right yellow circle.

I cranked up the brightness of this pic, but I cannot be sure of the end destination of the PCV hose because of the loss of resolution when the pic is magnified.

image-missing.png


This is all, to be sure, a shot in the dark, but it might be worth the investment of time to run down all pollution control hoses, gadgets and gizmos to be sure of proper routing and function.

If the hoses and what-not were properly connected, perhaps there would be enough vacuum applied to the PCV to draw the crankcase vapors into the carb for subsequent reburning rather than venting via the oil filler cap.

Since the carb was apparently recently replaced, there is at least the probability that the pollution control hoses were mis-routed and/or left unconnected.

As I said -- a shot in the dark.

Regards,

I-Gadget

PS: If the carb nipples to which those hoses should connect were left unplugged, Tugly will not live long with multiple open sucking chest wounds.
 
I have a '79 258 as well and recently replaced the valve cover because mine was warped and leaky. I had a cap the same style as yours on my old one. When I replaced it, I got a new cap at the local parts store. It was plastic with a big rubber O ring instead of the metal version. It seems to fit nice and tight. No complaints. For 3 bucks, maybe try a different cap. Good luck.
 
Back
Top