Buying a used jeep...
- Thread starter Guest
- Start date
878000
The biggest thing to worry about on CJs is rust.
Terry
The biggest thing to worry about on CJs is rust.
Terry
O IIIIII O
New member
879000
Check the frame out. Everything else is gonna get swapped anyways. You may want to pay attention to the tub as well. But you can swap that as well.
Check the frame out. Everything else is gonna get swapped anyways. You may want to pay attention to the tub as well. But you can swap that as well.
David
New member
881000
Check for cracks near the spring perches. I don't know your level of four-wheeling knowlege, but there are many jeeps built for four wheel driving. You might, for instance, look for a (correctly installed) suspension lift. In no particular order, here are some suggestions.
Look for a Dana 44 (irregularly shaped) rear as opposed to an AMC 20 (looks like a basketball--perfectly round). The D-44's are stronger. Power steering is nice to have. I'd get it. Depending upon where you live, bigger engines are nice. I'd get a 304 (stock) or a swapped-in 360 (or 401, if you find one). The Chevy 350 is a common V-8 swap, as is the Ford 5.0. However, when you start mixing and matching parts, things can get complicated. If you're looking at a jeep with a swap, I'd have a mechanic check it out to be sure it was done right. There's nothing wrong with the 258 (4.2L) inline-six, but (a) its carb can be a nuisance, and (b) as they say, there's no replacement for displacement.
An eighties jeep should have the Dana 300 transfer case. Stick with that. I'm not a fan of the quadaratrack, which I believe was offered on auto-transmission jeeps of that vintage.
I'm also not a fan of many transmissions from that era. Stay away, especially, from the T-5 and the SR-5 (I might have that designation a little wrong). I'd look for a jeep that had a swapped-in T-18, T-19, or (if you're really lucky) NV-4500. Some of this will depend upon how you're planning to use the jeep. If you're planning to spin big tires with lots of horsepower, you'll need a heavy-duty transmission. If you're talking about street driving with stock tires, then the T-5, etc. are fine.
Oh, check the top out. When buying in the summer, it's easy to overlook the top that's folded up on the back or taken off entirely. But in winter, you'll wish you had paid attention. If it's a hard top, does it fit? If it's a soft top, also check for tears. All the mounting hardware should be there. Have the seller demonstrate putting the top or tops on and taking it (them) off.
I could go on and on, but these are some of the major issues that come to mind.
Basically: (1) be prepared to get dirty. Go to look at the jeep with a flashlight and a rag. You'll need to crawl under it.
(2) take someone you trust who knows jeeps with you. Better yet, take the jeep to a local 4wd shop (and not the one owned by the seller's brother in law) for a once-over. You may have to pay some $$$ for that, but an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. You might even get the seller to knock the price of the exam off the final sales price, if you are at a point where you agree to buy the jeep if it gets an acceptable bill of health.
[This message has been edited by David (edited June 19, 2001).]
Check for cracks near the spring perches. I don't know your level of four-wheeling knowlege, but there are many jeeps built for four wheel driving. You might, for instance, look for a (correctly installed) suspension lift. In no particular order, here are some suggestions.
Look for a Dana 44 (irregularly shaped) rear as opposed to an AMC 20 (looks like a basketball--perfectly round). The D-44's are stronger. Power steering is nice to have. I'd get it. Depending upon where you live, bigger engines are nice. I'd get a 304 (stock) or a swapped-in 360 (or 401, if you find one). The Chevy 350 is a common V-8 swap, as is the Ford 5.0. However, when you start mixing and matching parts, things can get complicated. If you're looking at a jeep with a swap, I'd have a mechanic check it out to be sure it was done right. There's nothing wrong with the 258 (4.2L) inline-six, but (a) its carb can be a nuisance, and (b) as they say, there's no replacement for displacement.
An eighties jeep should have the Dana 300 transfer case. Stick with that. I'm not a fan of the quadaratrack, which I believe was offered on auto-transmission jeeps of that vintage.
I'm also not a fan of many transmissions from that era. Stay away, especially, from the T-5 and the SR-5 (I might have that designation a little wrong). I'd look for a jeep that had a swapped-in T-18, T-19, or (if you're really lucky) NV-4500. Some of this will depend upon how you're planning to use the jeep. If you're planning to spin big tires with lots of horsepower, you'll need a heavy-duty transmission. If you're talking about street driving with stock tires, then the T-5, etc. are fine.
Oh, check the top out. When buying in the summer, it's easy to overlook the top that's folded up on the back or taken off entirely. But in winter, you'll wish you had paid attention. If it's a hard top, does it fit? If it's a soft top, also check for tears. All the mounting hardware should be there. Have the seller demonstrate putting the top or tops on and taking it (them) off.
I could go on and on, but these are some of the major issues that come to mind.
Basically: (1) be prepared to get dirty. Go to look at the jeep with a flashlight and a rag. You'll need to crawl under it.
(2) take someone you trust who knows jeeps with you. Better yet, take the jeep to a local 4wd shop (and not the one owned by the seller's brother in law) for a once-over. You may have to pay some $$$ for that, but an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. You might even get the seller to knock the price of the exam off the final sales price, if you are at a point where you agree to buy the jeep if it gets an acceptable bill of health.
[This message has been edited by David (edited June 19, 2001).]
1040018
Look closley at the mounting plates for the steering box! I've not seen ONE that isn't cracked!! You'll need to look closley at the mounting bolts, clean the area good.
I was lucky with mine. I had made a trail repair (weld) on one bolt hole that was easy to see. I thought that was it. Fortunatly, the four other crack's I didn't see didn't do their deed and let the mount fall off. I only found them when I deciede it was time to replace both upper and lower mounts. I was glad I replaced them when I did, the old ones wouldn't have made it another season! I'd been hosed if my steering box fell off.
Good luck.....
[addsig]
Look closley at the mounting plates for the steering box! I've not seen ONE that isn't cracked!! You'll need to look closley at the mounting bolts, clean the area good.
I was lucky with mine. I had made a trail repair (weld) on one bolt hole that was easy to see. I thought that was it. Fortunatly, the four other crack's I didn't see didn't do their deed and let the mount fall off. I only found them when I deciede it was time to replace both upper and lower mounts. I was glad I replaced them when I did, the old ones wouldn't have made it another season! I'd been hosed if my steering box fell off.
Good luck.....
[addsig]
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