All my newb questions

ScubaDude

New member
Kay so while owning my jeep I have learned a lot about cars and mechanics and how easy it is to stay broke... But I have racked up some questions that are pretty stupid. I just want Some clear cut answers.

Does a snorkel completely remove the dangers associated with water fording in short, clear water? I mean can there still be flooding? And what does flood anyway? People say that they drove through water, something got some water in it and totaled their rides...

Do you need to disconnect the sway bar links to get full flex? And is that the roll played by disconnects? Or is the name fooling me? Is it wise to disconnect when just offroading?

Lockers... Do those keep your wheels from spinning when offroad? Like climbing a small hill? And can they be disengaged?

Is it ever wise to turn off airbags? Many people (or so it seems) do but I can't think of any situation on or offroad I would want them off...

Thanks for any and all answers, and yes, I'm prepared for the grief for not knowing some of this stuff...
 

1.No snorkel will only help keep water out of your carburetor.There is many other things that are not water proof like the fuse box,rotor and cap,transmission,axles.there is no way to really make it 100% waterproof but there are things you can do to help it.

2.Yes to get full flex you have to disconnect the sway bar.If you have leaf springs I dont know if it really makes much of difference.Coil springs I DO NOT recommended disconnecting If going much over 25 mph.

3.All a locker does is make both tires spin compared to an open diff that only makes 1 tire spin.Usually you have an auto locker for the rear.It will engage both tires when under power but disengage when not under power.You can do the same for the front or they do make a selectable locker where you can control when both or 1 tire spins.The point of it is to get maximum traction to help prevent spinning.Reason behind the selectable on the front is for steering purposes.

4.I did know you could turn the air bag off and do not under stand why you would want to.
 
I think the option to turn off airbags is if you have a rear facing car seat in the front passenger seat. I have never seen the option to turn off the driver's side.
 

The subject of vehicle recovery popped up today. My friends Cherokee's brakes stopped working and the emergency is shot so he went through a fence and stopped right before a 4 foot drop off into small river. I don't carry recovery equipment... Or own any. I've never been put in this situation before. Luckily we got his engine running and I backed it up and out. He is still set on using this jeep daily. Any way my question is should I keep 20 or so feet of chain in my jeep for a repeat occuranc? I'm not looking to put money forth for a whinch. Also where should I hook up a chain to the rear if a cherokee. I didn't see a tow hook. The trailer hitch hook up had small loops that were rusty and I didn't want to touch those. The hutch itself turned me off just since I wasn't in the mood to trust the pin. Also if any one wants to help solve the mystery about how his Cherokee's brakes went out I posted it up in the technical/Cherokee area. Thanks!
 
I wouldn't carry a chain...tow straps...yes. much lighter. Not sure where to hook up...you could always weld on some tow hooks...mabey...just an idea...good luck
 
X2 on the chains when a chain breaks during a recovery maneuver the pulling vehicle gets it very hard as the chain recoils. A strap is safer with a floor mat,jacket or anything else thrown over it. If the square receiver is there you can always use a bolt or a pin and loop one end of the strap inside of it. I carry a receiver D ring in mine since I don't have tow hooks on the rear. A cheap investment. Never wrap a strap on a axle or suspension part.

Sent from my PG86100 using Jeepz
 

Im still unsure as to how sway bar links are to be used... Should you leave them connected at all times? Disconnect them for heavy offroading? If i want the jeep to have lots of flex should i disconnect?
 
Disconnect only while offroading. Like XT said, if you're riding on the road over 25 it can be dangerous. I have quick disconnects on my JK and just tie the arms up and out of the way when off road. Before getting back on the road, I just throw the pins back in the arms and I'm road-worthy again. If you don't, you'll have the front rolling in the turns.
 

I have a four inch ProComp lift and I like it very much as far as a good lift on a budget goes, I was just curious if I ever wanted a smoother ride would all I need to replace be the shocks and springs or should I get a whole new lift kit with all the extensions also.
 
Lifts are a funny subject. Because your changing the arms geometry with a short arm lift. Once you pass that 20 degree mark more road energy passes through the upper and lower control arms into joints connecting them to the frame. Long arm lifts take care of this by moving the pivot point further back. But they change the pivot point and add different problems trying to get upper and lower arms to match length and pivot points.
With short arm lifts your controlling the axle movement more inline with factory spring rates and shock recommendations as per how much valving is required to suppress the spring /axle weight. With a long arm kit more of the axles weight and spring compression is added into the decision. Now the best springs out there for both cases are progressive types, that have a dual rate, these will generally have a small section of where the coil is spaced further apart then a tighter wound section. These springs will respond faster to road variances. Now to keep if bouncing after the spring has done its job, the shocks reduce and dampen the springy-ness after the spring has done its job. From mono tube to comp race shocks its all about the media inside the shock and valving. Here is where the old saying is you get what you pay for. The more you spend the better the results, without filling several pages on the difference from oil to nitrogen, the valving required. Your best choice here talking to your local off-road parts supplier on what type of collapse rate to rebound rate your looking for. If not their are several on the market that allow you dial in your ride comfort. Your local 4x4 parts guys can help you decide, then you can look into places to buy.
 
Alright new question, winches. I recently decided that a winch is not something that I need, it's a bit over kill since I only see off-road once or twice a year, but I have gotten curious.

How often do you have to maintain them? Is there a specific type of oil or is it just bolt it on and forget about it till you need it?

If anybody wants to say anything about winches at all go for it since I don't even know the right questions to ask.
 

Always leave the rear swaybar connected, on road and off.

Disconnect the front swaybar when offroad for more axle articulation. The more you keep the tires in contact with the ground, the more traction and forward momentum you will have.
 
Im still unsure as to how sway bar links are to be used... Should you leave them connected at all times? Disconnect them for heavy offroading? If i want the jeep to have lots of flex should i disconnect?

Swaybar disconnects will help you if you plan on doing any serious offroading such as rock crawling. They allow your axle and suspension to flex farther which allows you to clear larger obstacles or at least make the Jeep work better over obstacles that would normally cause you to adjust your "line" of travel. You should only disconnect your swaybars when offroad as it becomes a safety issue when cornering on the road.

If you are going to be doing any offroading on a regular basis do yourself and your group a favor and invest in recovery points on both front and rear and always carry a tow strap as a minimum. The aftermarket accessory world is full of options to choose.
 
sway bar DISCONNECTS are designed to unlock the sway bar for maximum articulation off road, and easy reconnect when returning to pavement for maximum on road safety never remove them completely as a sudden emergency maneuver on road can induce massive amounts of body roll, causing a major shift in the center of gravity causing control issues as well as the increased risk of roll over.
 
for the money, they are the best single investment you can make. Even when you are not using them. NOTHING prevents people from being idiots on the road in front of you, in a parking lot or a drive through than a massive winch on the front of your jeep NO bull bar set up will ever come close. (same with a big hitch in the receiver on the rear end) Cheap insurance right there. And then having it when you need it cant be beat. I live in a suburban metro area, my jeeps (yes plural 3 Grand Cherokees and a Wrangler) are all work vehicles but spend a lot of time in the urban environment. it is extremely entertaining when you notice that the wrangler gets the most respect out of the four of them and two of the GC's get none at all and the differences are just the winches or lack there of.
 
Put the winch on and forget about it. I would highly recommend keeping it covered when ever not in use. maintenance is limited to maybe servicing the motor or replacing a selonoid.
 

the site REALLY needs the Like module installed... it will show people the validity of a post by a simple click by other people without posts like this one where I agree with both of you on the strap vs chain and the receiver pin...
 
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