1993 Cherokee (XJ) Country: Build by TWDJ

TWDJ

New member
As this is my 1st build thread ever, I spent some time looking at how others have successfully created and updated their project Jeep. One thing became immediately apparent and that is the need for LOTS of pics which I will start doing as soon as I can. As there is no place better to start than the beginning, I'll start with what was brought home on Day 1.

1993 Cherokee (XJ) Country. ~150K miles, relatively well maintained, and totally stock save for some REALLY ugly aluminum wheels and pretty decent 30x9.5/15 LT tires. The day my wife and I were to pick up the XJ the interior lights, radio and door locks stopped working all at once. The owner had checked all fuses and taken the door panel off to check wiring … no power. Must have been some major electrical issue. We knocked off some bucks, struck our deal and I was on my way.

Item 1 - I found it odd that 3 items would stop working at the same time so off to Kragen I went and picked up the basic repair manual from Chilton. As with my YJ from years ago, I knew there were fuses in 2 locations (interior and under the hood) so wanted to check them all. Sure enough, blown fuse under the hood! The PO did not know to check there apparently. Replaced fuse and all worked again.

Item 2 - Rear tires rubbed every time I had passengers in the back seat and rolled over any kind of dip in the freeway. As the owner had also thrown in the OEM aluminum wheels, the second order of business was to get the good tires off those awful wheels and mounted/balanced on the OEM wheels. Looked better and the rubbing went away (less wheel BS as it turned out).

Now came the time to get all the REALLY worn stuff taken care of. Remember when I said it was reasonably well maintained? Well, fluids and lubrication had been done and the vehicle kept clean. That was the maintenance. I was amazed at the number of factory OEM parts still in use … shocks, fuel filter, axle oil (I think). So, time to get all that taken care of so I can see what is really needed to get things "off road ready". The list is as you'd expect for a 17 year old vehicle with 150K miles. Spring sag was not significant (17.5 F; 16.25 R) but budget was tight so I opted to replace bushings, etc. and see if the normal ride height came back. So, here's what was done:

(1) Rebuilt the front suspension: upper and lower control arms, front wheel bearings (1 was loose so both were replaced), and upper and lower ball joints on both sides (1 upper was loose on 1 side so all 4). Did not replace coil springs at this time.
(2) Temporarily removed front sway bar just to make crawling around easier.
(3) Rebuilt rear suspension. Replaced all bushings but left springs alone.
(4) Off came the rear sway bar (forever!).
(5) New KYB shocks front and rear.
(6) Recovery points front and rear: Draw-Tite w/ "D" ring.
(7) Took apart and cleaned up all battery connections and terminals. Sealed with "liquid tape". No more crud!

WOW, what an improvement! No more wandering around the road, quiet over speed bumps and no more clunking. My ride height had not changed much (17.5 F; 16.50 R) so I knew springs were in my future at some point. Still some vibrations and rattling at speed but drove that way for about 6 months.

In November, around Thanksgiving, I had to make a trip to Portland, OR (~600 miles north) to see my folks before my mom went in for open heart surgery. Surgery went well (thank GOD!) and we returned home. During the trip up and back however, some other issues made themselves apparent. The familiar "squeak, squeak, squeak" that rises and falls with speed told me the U-joints were not happy. There was also an incredible CLUNK which shook the vehicle one morning when I started it. Hmmm … started again and it did not clunk but now I had a nasty vibration that wasn't there before. Well, 600 miles from home and 18*F (yes it gets THAT cold in Portland), there was no time to spend messing with it there so the trip home was made.

Once back in Elk Grove, the Jeep went off to my friends at Elk Grove Muffler and Transmission where we found out a few things:

(1) 1 motor mount was broken clean (remember the incredible CLUNK?), 1 was hanging on and the transmission mount was not too far behind (replaced all).
(2) Innards of the catalytic converter were loose. Take your fist and hit the bottom and you could hear it clunk (replaced it with low flow unit and MagnaFlow muffler).
(3) U-joints were so wobbled out that the yokes were egg-shaped (new yokes, new U-joints and balance driveshafts).

WOW, again what an improvement. Smoother starting and a LOT less vibration. Took it out onto the freeway and it was so smooth and quiet (even with the MagnaFlow). For the last few months I'd been blaming noise, vibration and wandering on the tires and found out they are fine … it was the driveline all along!

Then came the fun stuff …

(1) Airaid intake (however, after reading some of the REALLY bad things about gauze/oil type filters I am putting the factory air box back on).
(2) PowerAid Throttle body.

Without going into all the details, made another fast trip to Oregon after all this and picked up 1.5mpg (up to 19mpg average on highway) not too mention how much smoother and quieter it all was.

Well, that brings me to where I am with the XJ at present. Next entry will be for Phase 1 of the upgrades.

Oh, and I'll post some pics as soon as I get some uploaded.
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1993 Cherokee (XJ) Country: Build by TWDJ (PHASE 1)

PHASE 1

"Just purchased" and other items in my garage for the 1st step of the build:

New coil Springs (1" lift) for front (Quadratec).
New leaf Springs (1" lift) for rear (Quadratec)
Bar Pin Eliminators for front and rear (TeraFlex).
1" Wheel Spacers (5 Lug 4.5" To 5 Lug 4.5").
Front license plate holder (fits in front receiver).
Stock intake breather.
Replacement wiper motor.

As my XJ is also called upon frequently to be the 2nd car, there will be no LONG periods of teardown/assembly. It's all going to be done a day, weekend or week at a time. Yes, I'll take a week's vacation to work on my Jeep … doesn't everyone?

FRONT --
Bring overall front lift to ~3.25" over stock by using HD coil spring (1"), 1.75" poly spacer and a second .50" stock isolator.
Fab new front bump stops (hockey pucks?) to work with stock bump stop after determining upper limit of shocks and suspension.
Fabricate 1/4" caster shim.
Replace pitman arm to correct for lift (MJ = 1" drop).
Evaluate and reposition track bar (weld existing location then re-drill).
Fabricate shock extensions (existing KYB shocks are new … want to keep if possible).
Extend brake lines.

REAR ---
Bring overall rear lift to ~3.25" over stock by using HD leaf spring (1") top leaf of existing rear spring (2.25") added below new main leaf.
Fabricate new spring plate with area for bump stop (hockey puck?).
Fabricate shock extensions (existing KYB shocks are new … want to keep if possible).
Extend brake lines.

DRIVETRAIN ---
Slip Yoke Eliminator (Iron Rock Offroad)

MISCELLANEOUS ---
Windshield wiper motor
Stock intake breather: silencer removal and reinstall.
License plate holder install.

There will be a lot of parts gathering and some fabrication necessary ahead of time … caster shim, front and rear bump stops, shock extensions and spring plates … to complete the suspension lift including SYE installation which should be a weekend project. As it was all apart less than 6 months ago, there should be no issues with frozen bolts and the like. The rest should be a day here and there. Time frame for completion is the end of February.

As I start acquiring and fabricating, I'll update this build with links, diagrams and pictures of what's taking place and how it looks.
 
REVISED: Well as these things tend to do, my build has taken a rather sharp turn before it really got started.

Met up with a couple of locals who, along with some other folks in the area, do a lot of off-road travels. He has a tremendous amount of off-road experience and she likes to go as well (when she isn't wheeling herself) . So, after many margaritas at a local watering hole, I have a new build for the Cherokee. Honestly, couldn't be much farther from what I THOUGHT I wanted in the first place but at least there won't be a large amount of money spent twice.

Bottom line … If I want to spend time with this group, I'll need 5" of lift and 35" tires. OK by me as one of the big reasons Ronie and I are getting involved in this activity is to meet and get to know new folks while doing some "social networking". So here's the new plan in order of how things are going to get done (translation: gets done as money becomes available).

1 - 5" lift comprised of 4.5" Rough Country coil springs and isolators, steering stabilizer, QDs and CADBs in front and homebuilt spring-pack in the rear.
2 - IRO slip yoke eliminator.
3 - RC series 8000 shocks front and rear with BPEs.
4 - Homebuilt steering box brace.
5 - Homebuilt armor and sliders.

In preparation for larger tires and more time crawling:
6 - PS upgrade.
7 - Brakes upgrade.
8 - Hood vents and CAI.
9 - PS, engine oil and AT coolers.
10 - Replace engine mounted viscous fan with 2nd electric.
11 - Re-gear (4.56 or 4.88 ) then mount up the 35s.

As the re-gearing and tires are last (biggest $$$), I'll spend the first part of the year on a 5" lift with SYE and 30" tires. Probably look a little goofy but that's the way we'll need to play before we pay for the last part of this project.

I also want fabricate, build, assemble and cobble together as much as possible because that is what it's all about, right? So, it may take a few months (a year?) to complete all this. There will obviously be some additional odds and ends to make all this happen but these are the big parts, I believe.

And the last couple of days were sunny so I got some "before" pics (low bandwidth) so you can what I'm starting with.

Again, thanks for all the input.
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Already been another change ... a friend came across a set of 5 Dick Cepek DC-1 wheels with Mud Dawg 33x12/15 tires mounted on 4 of them. The tires have about 50% tread. Both wheels and tires look like most of their lives have been spend on-road and look perfect. The whole lot for $450. I'm picking them up tomorrow. As I was told earlier today, "eBay is your friend".
 

Already been another change ... a friend came across a set of 5 Dick Cepek DC-1 wheels with Mud Dawg 33x12/15 tires mounted on 4 of them. The tires have about 50% tread. Both wheels and tires look like most of their lives have been spend on-road and look perfect. The whole lot for $450. I'm picking them up tomorrow. As I was told earlier today, "eBay is your friend".

Picked up the wheels and tires today ...
 

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Well, the first phase of the my Cherokee build is about to begin. There are a lot of new parts in my garage:

RC 4.5" coil springs
RC control arm drop kit
4 new front coil spacers
new track bar bushings and bolt
RC steering dampener
RC sway bar disconnect
RC series 8000 shocks, front and rear
TeraFlex bar pin eliminators
Crown HD rear leaf spring (1+" lift)
IRO slip yoke eliminator w/ driveshaft

The work starts tomorrow (Sunday) early. By the end of the week I hope to be telling everyone about a 5" lift front and rear (4.5" coil plus 2nd stock isolator and rear springpack made from top 3 leaves of existing rear leaf springs), a relocated track bar, relocated brake lines and the installation of the SYE and DS.

Daily updates with pictures. Until tomorrow night ...
 
Let me first apologize for not having any pictures to show of today's work. Steve and I got started this morning and didn't really take any breaks. Got the Cherokee up on jack stands and wheels pulled off then took a look at what we wanted to attack to start things off … we decided on the front.

So, at the end of the day here's what we had accomplished:

1 - Removed shocks and front coil springs.
2 - Disconnected brake line brackets.
3 - Disconnected track bar at axle.
4 - Installed the control arm drop brackets.
5 - Got ahold of a spring compressor to get the 4.5" coil springs installed along with with a 2nd factory isolator.
6 - Everything is all bolted up and ready to be torqued tomorrow night.

Tuesday, on to the rear suspension.

Oh, and Ronie did take a couple of pics of Steve and I working so there is proof we did the work ourselves.
 

Here are a few pics I snapped at lunch today with my iPhone. A quick review ...

1 - We did let the axle sag as far as possible on each side after everything was installed. Brake lines are juuuuuuust long enough. That said, when I put on the new booster or master cylinder (standard with 33s is not going to stop very quick) the brake lines will be replace.

2 - I need taller jack stands for the future projects.
 

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Weekend was productive but the same cannot be said for Monday night.

1 - Torque wrench rented from O'Reilly's was no good. Going back today.
2 - Had to undo some work as 2 bolts were to have been placed on each side before UCA was installed. Not as bad as it sounds.
3 - Had to loosen more work as certain items weren't lining up properly. Lost 17mm socket down the hollow frame on driver's side while loosening what used to be UCA bolt. Last heard rolling toward front spring mount ... bye, bye!
4 - While drilling 1st of four 11/32" holes for self-tapping screws the drill bit "exploded" sending shrapnel in every direction. Score "1" for eye protection!! Oh, and a replacement will get picked up today as well.

I did clean up a bit and get those 4 bolts inserted so the evening was not a total loss (small comfort). Ahhh, well, back at it tonight.
 
Here are the results of last night's work. Only have the front brake lines to secure and track bar to relocate. Those will wait until after the rear gets done.
I will need to weld the reinforcement brackets for the CA drop brackets as the self-tapping screw pulled through on one of the four.

Getting more of a feel for how the lift and tire combo will look when finished.
 

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TerryMason: Thanks! It is good to be back. Jeepz helped me a LOT when I had my YJ a few years back so I'm hoping to assist/inspire some others.
 
Man you people in California have access to so many older vehicles in great shape. Up here in New England, unless you never drive it, with in 8 years your vehicle starts to rust.
 

Man you people in California have access to so many older vehicles in great shape. Up here in New England, unless you never drive it, with in 8 years your vehicle starts to rust.

jps4jeep: I'm from Oregon originally (wet but no salt) so know something of what you are saying.

UPDATE: Did get started on the rear end Wednesday night and, after pulling everything apart, we looked at all the work to be done to make the new spring pack ... uhhhh, not so much. So my son and I went to RE and picked up new 4-1/2" springs, u-bolts and 6* shims Thursday morning. Then last night we finished the rear suspension and got the tires/wheels on. Cherokee looks GOOD!

It was too late to get pics so after I get the track bar relocated today I'll drive over to the same parking lot where the "before" photos were taken and post up the side-by-side pics.

That will leave the SYE, relocating the brake lines, extending the E-brake cables and welding the CADB reinforcement. I'm thinking maybe I'll be done with all but the welding by Super Bowl. WOOHOO!
 
OK, I couldn't wait so here are a couple of pics taken in my driveway with my iPhone.
 

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Most everything is in place and ready for final FINAL measure, tweak, adjust and relocate. So here is the plan for today …

1 - Ronie, my wife, went out and helped me get the measurements necessary to center the front axle (thanks, GoJeep). Without going into all the math … and trust me, I can go on and on about numbers … the track bar needs to be relocated 15/16" toward the driver's side to center the axle.

2 - Then we GO ON A DRIVE! Realizing I've not yet done the SYE, speeds will be kept down but we just GOTTA take it out and see how it all feels. Of course, the parking lot "poser shots" will get done at the same time. Those will be uploaded later today.

3 - While out and about, I'll pick up the strapping necessary to relocate the front and rear brake lines. Will get some pics of the fab and install process (Ronie will do camera … clean hands) then post those as well.

I think I will take a couple of days off before starting on the SYE. All that grinding and all. Plus, got a garage to clean up and parts to sell/swap.

Until later today, take care all.
 

Yesterday didn't quite work out the way I planned. Got the track bar relocated then pulled out of the garage for a quick drive ... NO WAY!! Pinion angle was set up for the new SYE/DS set up and was binding and squeaking.

So back into the garage to do the SYE and then ... the power went off. Ah, well, it is time for margaritas somewhere so I build some. After a couple of them the power came back on and, as wisdom comes with age, I opted NOT to work with power tools under a vehicle. Today, back at it and using the cutting wheel and a hacksaw, the SYE and DS are now installed.

How does it drive ... BETTER than with the worn out OEM springs and suspension!! As I have not yet put the sway bar back on there was a little lean but not as much as stock without the swaybar. I am REALLY happy with the way it turned out. All that research and question asking paid off.

Made a pass or 2 around the block to make sure all was good, then out onto the boulevard and, finally, out to the freeway. Probably 20 miles in all and I couldn't be happier with the way it turned out. My wife, Ronie, even commented on how smooth and stable it felt from her seat. Trust me, she is not one to sugar-coat so if I was looking through rose-colored glasses, she'd have said something.

I'll post some pics after the Super Bowl ... GO PACK!!
 
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