1956 CJ5 Build

the frame was soda blasted than sprayed with Detroit diesel green engine enamel baked on making it very durable its like its own armor (10 coats)
 
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por 15 would be just as strong and durable
the main reason I used eng enamel was cost and also because por 15 didn't come in the color I was looking for
 
Sounds good John. Thanks for all the tips you've provided thus far. It's my first total restoration so there will be some things I am clueless on. My frame is loaded into my truck and will be dropped off for sand blasting tomorrow. I've got POR-15 waiting in the garage.
 
After two weeks at the sand blast shop, I finally got the frame back. It looks really good! I applied two coats of POR-15 (pictures to follow). Once all the rust was removed I uncovered the original serial number from the frame (101295). This tells me the frame is from 1955 if it's a true CJ5 frame. It can be from another early CJ from another year but I don't know how to verify its a true CJ5 frame. I also uncovered the engine serial number while disassembling the engine. It is 800885. That number is a 1958 CJ5. Any ideas on why there is a difference in serial numbers? I've been trying to figure out this jeeps true birth year for over a year.
 

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Here is my frame after two coats of POR-15 and two coats of POR-15's Chassis coat black top coat. I am now working on disassembling the Dana 44 rear so I can paint it with the same stuff and replace all the old gaskets and seals.
 

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I began disassembling the leaf springs and cleaning them. Once cleaned, I applied the base coat of POR-15. So far I got one set painted. It looks pretty good. Also I applied the base coat onto the Dana 44.
 

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I finished the rear suspension and attached it to the frame and Dana 44. Unfortunately I ordered the wrong shackle so I will install them once the appropriate part arrives. I also began cleaning and disassembling the hurricane 4 for paint and rebuild. The front end is painted and I will install it this week.
 

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I installed the rear shocks today and am very happy with the outcome thus far. I also installed the transmission support crossmember. Unfortunately the crossmember has been off the frame for so long that the frame widened slightly and therefore the holes for the screws no longer lined up right. I used a 5000 lb ratchet strap to pull the frame back together while I put the bolts in. It worked out surprisingly well. I reassembled the front leaf springs after paint and will attach them to the front axle tomorrow.
 

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After two weeks at the sand blast shop, I finally got the frame back. It looks really good! I applied two coats of POR-15 (pictures to follow). Once all the rust was removed I uncovered the original serial number from the frame (101295). This tells me the frame is from 1955 if it's a true CJ5 frame. It can be from another early CJ from another year but I don't know how to verify its a true CJ5 frame. I also uncovered the engine serial number while disassembling the engine. It is 800885. That number is a 1958 CJ5. Any ideas on why there is a difference in serial numbers? I've been trying to figure out this jeeps true birth year for over a year.

As for your frame your CJ was manufactured anywhere between Oct 1955 to march 1956 if my research is correct

As for the motor it must have been replaced sometime down the line , as long as it's been done the same as original it's still original even though it's a few year difference

frame came out nice
you may want to consider putting Polly strips between springs to keep them from squeaking
this was a neat little trick I learned many years back

keep up the good work it's coming:welder: right along
 

Thanks! I will look into the poly strips. Progress is slower than i would like but i have been working alot and im being a perfectionist with this jeep. I want it right the first time!
 
I got the Dana 25 front end assembled with the leaf springs. Painted I t with POr-15 and installed a diff gasket. Neither diff ever had a gasket. Could explain my mystery front diff leak I always had. Anyway, going on vacation today so I will attach the front end to the frame when I return. Next up is brake lines.
 

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Chassis complete!
 

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I never use gaskets on my diff covers they tend to blow out after awhile , I just use the non hardening black form a gasket from permatex
 
Transmission an d transfer case rebuild complete. I had it done by Georgia Precision Gear in Marietta Georgia. They do very nice work and are reasonably priced. More pictures to follow.
 

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Wow your just cruising along
what kind of shocks did you use
do you have the rear cross member for the frame
it helps keep the rear springs aligned from any flexing also keeps rear part of tub from vibrations
the cross member looks like one in pict
below
 

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The shocks are the only thing from the jeep as I purchased it that I kept. They were brand new so I kept them. They are rough country stock sized shocks. I do not have the cross member yet. It requires welding and I'm not up to speed on the welding yet so im waiting a bit before I install it. It will be installed before I put the body back on.

Also, I installed the brake and clutch pedal arms and brake master cylinder. I am in the process of installing the brake lines. Finally got the rear shackles installed. The original metal/rubber fittings in the leaf springs and the mounting brackets were rotted in place, so I had to drill them out in order to install the new shackles. It was about 2 hours of drilling, mostly because my bit dulled after the first hole.
 

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Additional pictures of the T-90.
 

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