Recent content by MudDawg

Go with the 4.5 kit...the fuel mileage decrease from larger tires is a real concern...but...regearing will cure that...I run 33's and get 18+ MPG...with stock gears it got around 10mpg.

How much the suspension has sagged has a lot to do with it too as well as the actual suspension spec package...go to the tire store and have one trial fitted...that size wouldn't have fit my XJ when i got it due to severe suspension sag...so bad my first lift package (3") lifted it nearly 5...

Don't forget having the tires checked for true...an out of round tire will put you in DW land quick...even if the balance is done properly.

1054352 The "box" thingie is probably the starter solenoid...either the ignition switch is whacked or the neutral safety switch is whacked.... oil leak "spraying" out on right side?? check the oil pressure sender... kind of obscured beside the passenger side motor mount...only the rear crank...

1054353 I used the Rough Country kit as the basis for mine...lift kit and shocks... as for the rear springs...if yours are like mine were..they were dang near inverted from sagging...i found a set of low milage later model springs from a towing package equipped XJ...then installed the...

1055102 Thanks for the input, I appreciate it...I have a Dana 30 and a AMC 20...i was told that 4.56 is the lowest gear to fit both ends...and the new motor should have no problem cruising along at 3K...its not my daily driver anyways...just to go fishin and foolin around...speakin of...

1056745 If it's a 4 banger...the alternator is the tensioning point. Dawg[addsig]

1056819 It would be best if you could install a new clutch assembly when you change the transmission..have the flywheel surfaced...and use a high quality pressureplate/disc assembly ...NOT a El-cheapo Remanufactured unit...The cost difference is marginal. At the very least install a new release...

1057246 If there isn't an inherent design flaw in the rotors....some manufacturers have brakes that are notorious for warping rotors (personally i dont know about Jeeps)...the culprit is HEAT....either misuse such as riding the brakes....or heat cycling from habitually waiting till the last...

1057759 My Jeep dealer says that anthing built prior to 1990 has little to no useful data available. They tried looking up some stuff for my '85 model... no luck at all. The service manager told me that around that time Jeep used about anything they could get their hands... case in point... i...

1057762 My bud at work that got me into 4 wheelin' has a F-250 with '44 swampers....the only thing he hasn't broken yet is his transmission... a NP435. But if I was building a project like yours... it would build a 383 motor (400 block with 350 crank basically) and a Turbo 400 auto...properly...

1058078 Where are you checking for vacuum??? check at the connectors where the plastic lines hook to the metal lines at the firewall...i had a problem once where rust got in the steel lines going down to the axle...no vacuum at the axle...vacuum at the firewall... BUT... if the problem is in...

1058079 Look at the fluid...it should be nice and clear red...and shouldnt stink...I recommend that you take it to a reputable trans shop for analysis..if the fluid looks and smells good and there is no slipping or chattering most likely it is something simple...like maybe the cable has come...

1058085 When i got my project XJ i knew right away the stock bumpers had to go..they are barely more than tin :roll: the front has 3 mount bolts to the "frame", 2 of which are thru metal that is maybe 12 gauge.. i went to my local steel supplier and bought a stick of 2" x 6" x 11 gauge...

1050110 Clean the engine bay and motor up and look for the oil leak... unless you ran over something and holed the pan, about the only thing other than the front seal would be the oil pressure sender leaking...if it's the sender leaking... replace it...chances are unless there is mechanical...