Well... An apartment parking lot is not the ideal spot to do what needs to be done. And a lift is for sure a luxury item. I've done several clutches on my back in my driveway. It was never a pretty sight or the most convenient. But we got it done. A land lord probably wouldn't be too happy...
If you want to do it on the cheap... Just the flywheel gear will get you going.
Getting to it is the fun part.... Drive shaft(s) has to come out. Trans and linkage... Basically it's almost like doing a clutch job.
The only "special tools" you will need are a torque wrench and a clutch...
Sorry. I meant " I believe there was only one starter drive gear..." Sorry for the confusion. I tried to edit my response... But got a error when I hit send. I should have proof read!!!! Lol
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I did a small amount of Sunday reading. I believe there was only 1 starter drive gear for 1970 5.0l mustang manual trans. It had 9 teeth on it. The funny part is that there were 2 different flywheels available. A 164 tooth and a 157 tooth. Either way, the starter should engage either one...
Dang nabb it..... I forgot about shims. Yes starter shims may be another part of the equation here.
Although, I have removed plenty of starters on mustangs (87-93) and never had one that had shims for the starter. Even my old 69 Bronco with a 302 didn't have shims. But it sure had a flat...
I'm no Willys expert... But by chance are the teeth on the flywheel chews up or have a flat spot ? I had an old bronco with a 302 in it. Every once in a while when I parked it, the teeth on the flywheel would land on the flat spot. So when I turned the key, the starter would just scream from...
Aside from the opening being different..... I believe the striker assemblies are different. I believe the latch / striker changed in 81. So if you have doors off an 80, they won't latch or close properly without some mods.
As for the top..... I really don't know. Everything I've read always...
Ok folks. Need some advice. As I was cleaning up the frame on my cj7, I found this. The pic is of the frame upside down. The spot with the holes is where the sway bar frame mounts connect. On the top you can see what's left of the "nutserts" that hold the bracket to the frame.
The bad part...
Just looking for a quick census on this. Has anyone attempted to remove these fittings? I going to be powder coating the intake and was wondering if these are even replaceable. I'm not looking to create more issues by messing up the threads. My sought was to heat it up a bit with a torch and...
So the time has come to replace the thin rear crossmember my 85 CJ originally came with. I already have a heavy duty one ready to go. An old timer where I work told me a should weld a temporary brace behind the original before cutting it off. His thought was, if you cut off the rear crossmember...
The doner bar was from a 91 YJ. I think what will be the determining factor is how well the CJ bar fits the YJ tub. From what I have seen so far..... The last owner had some questionable mods as well as a rough driving style.
I have no intention on using the spreader bars. If I use the YJ...
So.... I have a 85 CJ to YJ body swap going on. I intend to keep the CJ dash and windshield. Currently I have the original CJ roll bar and I also have the bar that came with the doner YJ.
My question is... Is there a preference as to which one to use. I need to lighten my load and roll bars...
In case any one wants to see it.... I spent this weekend tearing my 85 CJ down to the bare frame. I remember seeing this brake line question so I took a picture of it before I dismantled it.
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I also have a 2010 JK unlimited. Yes flipping the top back without taking it all the way down is ok. I just hate the way the latches stick up when you have it this way. Just my opinion. But for some fun in the sun..... Go for it.
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