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Gears are one of the best mods I've done and need to do again since I went up in tire size.

If you're running 35s the front 30 will be fine, especially in mud. The later versions, 95ish and later have larger D44 size u-joints and will slide right in the 92 housing. For the rear the easiest will be a 97 and later Chryco 8.25 out of another XJ. It's 29 spline and close to D44 strength...

Iroks are light compaired to most mud tires but I didn't even think about an AT or even a full on street tire in a 35. Folks I know that run bigger tires don't mess with those.

On XJs if it had a 242 no disco, 231 got the disco and it ended in 91, YJs got it a little longer.

Hope it holds. I tried that with mine and it broke the first trip out. The factory mount is basically sheet metal and once bent won't ever be right and it's hard to get a good bead on it. That's why most replace them with aftermarket ones that are usually around 1/4" plate.

Iroks But it's still going to be a turd without gearing.

They like to crack. It was a casting problem.

Big is an under statement. The 8.25 in 97 and up has 29 spline axles and is pretty close to D44 strength. They'll hold 35s pretty easily. BTW the 8.25 is also c-clipped.

Same year I have and I've beat the crap out of it for about 5 years. I know 99s had some head issues but 97 seems to be a good year. First year of the slightly less boxy body and better, roomier interior in my opinion.

It's a bit stonger than what came stock and the right years have disc brakes. The only ones you want come from explorers. The ranger version has 28 spline shafts vs the stronger 31 spline explorer version. I think 95 or 96 is when they went to disc brakes. Most swap them in because of the...

Wow that's a lot for a couple of small welds that would take less than 10 minutes. I'm hoping you replaced the brackets and didn't pay them that much to reweld the factory sheet metal brackets.

Waggy axels are only 1/2" wider than your stock D30, not a 35 that's a rear axle. A D44 is a bit over kill for 31s and they came with 4 bolt patterns, none of which are the 5x4.5 except for the Rubi version which is a 30/44 hybrid and the same width as stock. It's going to look pretty silly...

We geared my brother's old YJ to 4.88s to run 33s with a 4 banger and it did OK. With stock gears it had no power and he constantly shifted between 3rd and 4th. 5th wasn't even an option.

Need a bit more info like what size tire you plan on running and how much wider do you want to go. Different wheels can make a good bit of difference. Axle swaps aren't easy and deff not cheap. Something you need to think a lot about before doing or you end up with the wrong axle like I did.

My old MTZs were dead on 35" on an 8" wheel but my buddys KM2s on the same wheel were just over 33". My current 38" TSLs are just shy of 38". That being said with the flares still on 35s, with them off and a bit of trimming 40s. But with the stock axles don't go bigger than 33s.

Width is going to make a difference in how low you can go so you'll need to find out. Are they stock wheels if so prob 6-7" wide.

Yes mine hold with the motor off. What bolt pattern and what is the 9" out of?

Mine is electric. Just pump the brakes once, hold them and hit the switch.

I'm talking about width. I'm hoping it's not 15" wide with a 10" wide tire.

I use a line lock for an e brake. Works great and cost like 30 bucks.