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Rough country but you get what you pay for. I've done plenty of SOA lifts and you need to redo the steering and most times make some kind of anti wrap bar for the rear to control axle wrap. At that height you start running into drive shaft angle problems as well so a SYE is in order. To do...

What size wheels are you running? You can buy deflaters but I use a valve stem removal tool and a good guage, not the stick type, that reads in single number increments. Try 18 and see how it does and maybe go a little lower. If you have a 10" wheel don't go below 15 or you have a real good...

Sure will. That was around the time they went from the small u-joint to the larger D44 size so it may have a smaller joint but spline count will be the same.

I've heard of people using crown vic parts but can't swear by it. I'm sure there are junkyard parts but you can also check curry or places like summit and jegs.

Rim width is going to play a part in this as well. You can go lower with a narrower wheel. I run 3psi in my 38s on an 8" wide wheel (don't go anywhere near that low with your 31s) but if I was running 10s or 12s I wouldn't try single digits.

I know all have a low pinion I was referring to how low the pinion sits on the 8.8 vs other rear axles. It hangs down a good inch lower than a D44.

Yes. Drive shaft will need to be shortened and you'll need a flange adapter. If you really want to run 40s the 8.8 wouldn't be my first choice. What are you planning for your front axle? Please don't say the stock D30 because 35s are pushing it.

Wouldn't trade my FF60 for anything, except maybe a built 14b. That being said it currently has a broke shaft but I drove it out with it and didn't damage anything. I have a 44 front and it was a huge mistake. Even with chromos I have snapped 5 shafts and killed one ring gear. I'm on 38s...

You could try to weld it but it would just break again. It's just sheet metal anyway. Find some aftermarket ones, most are 1/4" and much stronger. Rusty's is what I run but plenty of others are out there.

Never met a lockright I couldn't brake. Last one lasted 3 rides. I ran Aussies in my old axles and broke a few shafts but lockers held up great. Spartan is also a good choice. Both Aussie and Spartan are larger than lockrights and don't list tire size requirements and their springs last...

Depends on how you drive. The 31 spline version is plenty strong but if you drive like me then no.

Only way to get power back is with gearing.

Doesn't get much cheaper than RC but you get what you pay for. Keep in mind 4" is the magic number where you start getting into SYEs and other mods besides just the lift.

Not much you can do with a 242. If it was a 231 you could do a 4.1 kit and 2lo. You can also get a 241OR out of a Rubi and get the 4.1. 242 has one true SYE kit and it cost a fortune and hack and taps that are around 100 bucks. It's a decent case just doesn't have much aftermarket support.

With that much lift you could easily clear 36s but I doubt your axles would hold them and you're going to need lower gears than what's available for the 30/35 axles you have. 4.88 is as low as you can go and with a 4 banger those would only be OK with 33s and a slug with anything bigger.

No but you can with the 231. People use the 231 as a range box. I've seen 231/231, 231/241OR. and 231/D300 but haven't seen anyone use a 242. There are a couple of kits out there on pirate. If you have an auto the rear shaft gets very short.

Once you unbolt the flanges on the hub end of the axles they should slide out.

Play turning or in and out. Turning would be a backlash issue, in and out, which would let it turn some as well, would be pinion bearings and if they are too bad good chance the gears are gone as well. If it's stock you'd come out cheaper replacing the axle than gears, if the gears are gone...

There shouldn't be any ball bearings in your front axle. The carrier and pinion have roller bearings but they are cylinder shaped not balls. Can you pull the front cover and take some pics of the ring gear and spider gears? Also with the cover off and a wheel jacked up spin a tire and see if...

If it's for the 98 TJ you have listed it doesn't have hubs to unlock unless someone swapped in a different axle. Give us a little more detail and we may have some places for you to start looking. Rarely ever do you need to replace the whole axle but sometimes it's cheaper in the long run.