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Absolutely. The BBD is a great carb when it is maintained. Recommended to receive a kit (15-20 bucks) at each scheduled tune will keep them purring. No carb will give you better MPG. Of course a worn throttle rod bore will cause grief and is too expensive of a repair to be cost effective...

Which Weber?

You are very welcome Chet. It's simply information passed along down a line of jeepers. I do want to clarify one point concerning the ground wire after re-reading your question. Instead of adding another ground wire to the distributor my suggestion is to actually either cut away enough...

Sorry but no. Torque the nut to 19 ft lbs. The good thing is that there is only eight of them and are accessible to change with out pulling the head, if you should need to replace the lifters..

Yes. Somewhere along the path, between the connectors at the Ignition module and at the distributor. Wherever you feel as though it will be protected and convenient. The module grounds through that wire to the distributor at the hold down clamp and at the cam gear. Neither can be depended...

Yes... green to the Neg. coil, and the orange and purple should be twisted together at say three spirals per inch and should be shielded from any other wires along the entire path to the distributor. Somewhere along the way ground the black wire between the connectors of the Ignition module and...

No...those are separate circuits. I may be able to help if I knew which ignition system you are you installing and into what vehicle?

I suggest that you pick up and hook up a vacuum gauge. Reference to this link will most likely help in diagnosing your issue. How to Use and Interpret a Vacuum Gauge

I do believe that is body filler, evidenced by the way it is being pushed off the under lying rust. The OEM primer and the paint would exfoliate in tiny bits. Plastic filler remains rigid enough to do just exactly as see in the photo. If you can peal it off in a piece larger that a nat it's...

What you are seeing is the result of a prior attempt to fix. Very similar if not identical to what you or the next owner will see if you use the procedure outlined above. The thick paint you mention is actually bondo over rust. It was likely sanded or treated to what appeared to be clean metal...

It's my opinion that the Yokohama M/T is the best tire for quite highway drives and the tread design allows little to no mud buildup on the trail....except they will sling the mud to the wheel wells.

The Weber requires the small cup, like 1-7/8". Most all over the counter kits will have both the large (2-1/8")and small cup included whereas some only have the large cup. Simple and straight forward as mentioned. Here are photos of an install with a homemade bracket attached onto the filter...

Divorced would indicate that the T/Case would be separate and apart from the transmission. I can't make out the alignment in the image. Best of luck to you with your build, and welcome to this forum. Great folks here. Someone will do better than I with it's ID.

Then it won't be cheap much longer... As to the T/C is it divorced or is it mounted directly to the trans?

AMC20 at the rear and a Dana30 mounted up front. T/C no clue!

"war damn eagle"

X2 on that improvement, well worthwhile.

Well as I stated there is a small vent at the left end of the plenum directed toward the left side of the cab. The "Fresh Air Duct" catches some if not most of the air from that vent and directs it toward the drivers crotch. I have seven CJ's and they all have the "Fresh Air Duct". Of course I...

If you should shop for a Weber... please make certain you shop for a Redline Weber. Not the new and unimproved POS "weber" That would be any of the DGEC series. They are trouble. I would recommend the DGEV,DGV or DGAV 32/36. Old school, proven and a real upgrade. That so called "weber" DGEC...

There are two or three TJ tops listed at what I would consider a reasonable price here. Body & Interior Parts - JeepForum.com