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Air leak somewhere in the system?

www.4wd.com has everything, big and small. Ebay is always a good fallback.

3.75" is stock if I remember correctly

Looks like passengers in the back wouldn't have much head room.

F) King coil-overs with 4-link...or maybe SOA? JK, but yeah, it's worth it to save up your $ and get a quality lift like BDS or RE, it really is.

It would probably be too cold in November; the elevation is around 6,000 feet, and they get alot of snow...usually there is enough by late November for the ski lifts to open. I'm pretty sure the trail is closed in the winter, but I'm not sure what months. I wouldn't try it any later than...

It's pretty common to run a 12.5" wide tire on an 8" wide rim. Sure, most manufacturers don't recommend it, but if you look at their charts, they usually recommend an 8.5" or wider rim--that extra .5" won't make too much of a difference. If you offroad the Jeep, then you are probably better off...

I've always found destroying axles to be a blast. A buddy of mine blew out his dana 35 doing wheelies in a rite aid parking lot; fixing it on the spot was another issue but an experience none-the-less.

The yoke should just pull right off when you take off that retaining nut; the seal shouldn't stick. The manual says you need a puller, but both my yokes just slid right off. I havn't had much luck with easyouts; I would just drill it. As for the straps, I've heard that the u-bolt style is...

Well the machine shop got the shift rods out. Now I'm assembling the case, and let me say, this is the first and last transfer case I will ever rebuild. Adjusting the end play on the output shafts and pressing on bearings with the gears in the case is a PIA. Hopefully it'll be done sometime...

Yeah, i've had bad luck with machine shops around here too...even the good ones are usually running a month behind schedule, and when i got my block back from being bored and decked i found they had dinged a main bearing journal and it had a burr. I think i'll just pick up the front output...

http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html I would plug in your top freeway cruise speed that you want to go and then use the calculator to figure out a good rpm and gear ratio for that. Lack of power won't be an issue, so pretty much your only factor will be top speed/rpm on the freeway. I would get...

My plan for the sight tube was to run the tube from the fill plug hole to a hole I drill in the bottom cover on the t-case, so the main case goes unmodified; my plan is to not only use this to check the oil but to quickly drain and fill it as well--I could just unplug the hose at the top and...

OK, I've got the oil level sight tube figured out, but the shift rod issue even has the local machine shop confused. One guy there thinks there are two caps that need to be removed to let the ball detents out, and the other guy disagrees but has no idea how to get the rods out. Anybody here ever...

Also I've been thinking of installing a clear tube to tell how much oil (and water, lol) is in the t-case...would drilling into the housing weaken it very much, or at least be an issue?

Or at least get a switch to turn the airbags off when offroading. Installing airbags would be alot of work though, and I agree with LV--too many sensors to deal with, and it would be unsafe if it was not done correctly. I wouldn't dream of driving a CJ w/o shoulder harnesses; I've had them save...

I'm trying to rebuild my dana 300 transfer case and have dissasembled everything, except I have not been able to pull the shift rods out. Is there a trick to doing this? I took the front output housing off of the case so I could take all the gears out while I thought it over and let everything...

$110 a piece is a bit much for my wallet...ouch! I just realized though, if part of the drivetrain broke, I'd rather it be a ujoint than something like an axle or yoke...or transfercase output shaft, lol. I do plan on eventually running 33 spline mosers in the rear though... Anybody know what...

The stock axles should hold up to mild driving, but that rear end would be a bit weak for an LT1 and 35's if you ever feel like puting the power to the pavement...I would say go with an 8.8" out of a ford explorer if you plan on keeping the front end in there...with only moderate 'wheeling the...

Rubicon Express and Warn/Black Diamond Suspension are the best, but are also the most expensive. The RE kit is nice b/c you get to use wider springs in the front that will give you a better ride. I only have experience with RE and Rancho though, and would say that RE is amazing and Rancho is...