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yes, lift the wiper off the windshield, and pry the little lever away from the arm. Think of it being attached to a "C" type clip along the bottom of the arm. If done correctly, the arm will now stay up off the windshield and the arm should come straight off.

I painted the ones on my XJ too. I used automotive paint.

well, it is recommended that the rear drive shaft be disconnected and the front axle hubs disengaged for flat towing long distances. So I guess you have to decide if 90 miles would be considered long distance.

See if you can isolate the vibration. Pull the rear drive shaft and drive it in front wheel drive, see if it makes a difference. I would guess something in the drivetrain. Mine was the rear bearing in the transfer case. Do you have a SYE? 96 and newer XJs are kinda prone to vibrations without one.

I can only imagine the electrical problems he is going to have in that thing...

Don't use boots! They trap moisture and grit and ruin your shocks. You are better off without them. (well, unless you have a show truck... :lol: )

I got your video to play. I think you should start by checking your timing. then adjust the idle mixture adjustment screw (might be a screw with a spring on it). Turn the screw in and lightly bottom it, turn it out 1.5 turns, and adjust it in and out till you find the highest RPM. On the...

ok, I am guessing you are talking about an 89 XJ? When you shut the key off in a RENIX-II system (like after driving a while or whatever), the ECU holds it's own power on for a little bit (about 2 seconds), during this time the ECU stores some running condition info, and sends pulses to the IAC...

Here is an article on replacing the carb on 258s carb replacement I don't know if this will help you or not since your carb is new. carter idle problem Do you have a service manual? They have the adjustment procedure. You start by running the adjustment screws all the way in (don't bottom...

Mine had been sitting for a few years before I got it and all the windows were like that. I took the door panels off and lubed everything for the windows (gears, motor, tracks), and they started working fine.

I don't think there are nuts inside of the frame. It may be one of those nutsert things. You put the nutsert into a hole in the frame and as you tighten the bolt the nutsert compresses and pinches the frame to keep it from spinning. All you do is grind off the outside lip on the nutsert and...

not correctly.

if the input shaft fit in the pilot bearing? (you said it did) Sometimes the last inch is a real *****. I just help change a clutch in a 98 TJ, and we played hell getting the last inch in. Just wiggle and push it on in there.. We lowered the Jeep down, I put my feet on the trans and braced...

If there is no vaccum problems, it may be sucking in air somewhere else. Either where the carb attaches to the manifold, or where the manifold is attached to the block. Have you followed the procedures for tuning the carb? The backfiring sounds like it is dumping fuel into the engine and...

blow by writeup and you may need to clean out the inside of the valve cover if it's real gunked up.

the scoop on the hood is because someone took the original flat head motor out and put a later f-head engine in it.

are the trans lines still routed through the radiator? I did away with that configuration on my van, and the transmission ran a lot cooler. The radiator is over 200 degrees.

Factory repair manual. It's worth the extra money. I picked mine up on Ebay for cheap, the cover was ripped, I think I paid 12 bucks for it.

Hhhhmmmmm.. That's an odd one. Have you found anything out? It doesn't look like a M151 seat, those didn't have the front legs (that I remember) CJ2 and 3s had 4 feet that the seats sat on (if I remember correctly) It may be an old military seat?? Or out of something not Jeep, looks...

Crikey!!! :(