The YJ was produced from 1987 through 1995. ABS was an option on the early YJ's, and, I believe, standard on the '94 and '95 models. All YJ's have a leaf-spring suspension, and fashionable square headlights ;-) When compared to the TJ, the YJ has a rougher ride and less asthetic "charm" on...
On your rig, determine the bolt pattern and wheel offset. Then compare those figures with the 2000 Wrangler model. As an example, the bolt pattern could be 5 x 4.5 (5 bolt x 4.5" bolt-circle diameter). Check out these links if you need help:
https://rsracing.com/tech-wheel.html
edmunds.com...
I've heard of that beer a few years ago. The guy that told me about it said it was the best beer out there, made by monks, and was in the neighborhood of about $14 per glass/bottle. I've never put this beer to my lips, nor have I seen it anywhere... actually, I forgot what it was named...
After my YJ frame was repaired (patched), I used Eastwood Co.'s Rust Encapsulator on the areas of the frame that had lost the factory black finish coating and were rusting. After the rust treatment, I painted the entire frame and the transmission crossmember with Eastwood's Extreme Chassis...
Like many others, the frame at the rear spring shackles was rusted through on my YJ. Since I don't know how to weld well at all, I took the frame to a professional welder. The more he worked on the frame, the more rust holes and damage he found. The result was excellent patchwork and I was...
Hi-Lift Mount
I can't remember where I read about this inexpensive method of mounting a farm jack, but it certainly works! Your local "we've got-it-all" hardware store should have the parts necessary for the job.
Note the limited available space around the edge of the base-plate and the...
If you're overly concerned with rust and exposure to the elements, you could buy a black plastic case to put your Hi-Lift jack into. Quadratec.com sells them, as do other suppliers. I don't know if a case will fit your hood rack, but it's worth looking into.
My farm jack (not the Hi-Lift...
I cleaned my CCV elbow ('93 YJ, 4.0L) shortly after I bought the Jeep b/c I noticed a LOT of oil in the air filter. I took a 10-penny nail and carefully scraped away the caked-on oil and residue out of the interior of the CCV elbow... I also used engine cleaner/de-greaser. At the same cleaning...
Remember that your hardtop is made of fiberglass. Ordinary car paint and rattle can paint may work well for your application. Do apply a good coating of primer before the paint layer. I'm not sure if self-etching primer would be better on fiberglass than a flat primer. Do some research about...
In order to remove the driver side fender from the body, I had to cut the fender to access the stubborn bottom bolt holding it in place. The rust damage was too great to salvage this fender.
This was taken about a week or so after the body was removed from the chassis. Note the removed track bar, fuel lines, parking brake cables, shocks, and rear drive shaft. Look at that dirty rear axle and all the rust!
If it's a gasket-maker type of RTV, you should be fine. I've used that type on my engine valve cover with no leaking problems. It was essentially the color of graphite, in a black tube. Just give it plenty of time to set up in the colder temperatures. Remember, RTV= Room Temperature Vulcanizing.
My brother-in-law had a .380 caliber Kel-Tec P-3AT for a while. We couldn't figure out any way to remove the slide for proper cleaning, and I really don't think the slide is designed to be removed by the end user. The trigger pull is so long compared to, say, a Walther or Bersa, or most any...