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I usually finish sand the bondo with 100 - 150 grit. 400 grit is generally fine enough for sanding the primer. You use both the primer and spot putty to fill in the scratches.

A small part here/there sanded thru the primer isn't a big deal. Personally I see no need to go any finer than 400 grit when sanding primer.

40 ? yrs ago I had my Craftsman 1/2" ratchet die, took it to Sears and was a little surprised that they gave me a rebuild kit instead of a new ratchet. I have long forgotten what was involved in rebuilding it but that ratchet still works fine.

220 is ok for the initial sanding. Get some spot putty for those chips. I rarely use any paper finer than 400 grit when sanding the primer prior to finish paint.

I like to use a bondo rasp for the initial shaping. They come in several shapes and sizes. Here is one example - 10 in. Two-Way Combination Rasp Plane

plus the majority of the time a blown head gasket reveals itself thru white smoke coming out the tailpipe occasionally it will allow coolant into the oil

you made me look - I've been here for 12 yrs also. .... but I remember you being here before I was, but apparently not long before

They probably bent the gauge float arm while replacing the pump. Not a big deal, just an annoyance. Hope you get it resolved soon, I assume this is all under warranty.

I've never heard of that either. I'd be especially leery of doing that on the fenders flares which could get distorted from the heat.

My 2010 JK Sahara has traction control which while not the same is close to being as good IMO.

Brake lines use a double flare - no compression fittings.

Have you checked the timing?

If I remember correctly the stability control button is on the right side gauge [tach]. You keep pushing that button until stability control comes up, then hold it in to turn it off. the reverse to turn it back on. It's discussed in the owners manual if you have one. I never turn mine off but...

I also have a 2010 JK and the bushing is the same on both ends of the cable. I've had to replace the transfer case side once and the shifter side twice. The book says you need to remove the skid plate but if you can work blind and get your hand in there you can replace it without removing the...

That sure sounds likes it's burning oil but if it is it should also show up on the dipstick.

There is a house on the way to my son's place that almost always has 1-3 mowers setting in the driveway with a for sale sign. I've never stopped so I don't know anything about them but if you get too many - selling the extras would put a little extra jingle in your pocket.

With stubborn rusted bolts I like to sauce them down with PB Blaster several times in the days leading up to the work. Rapping them with a hammer can help while trying to turn them. When all else fails use heat [torch] but being a body panel that needs to be done with care.

PB Blaster is a LOT better than WD40! That is what I use first, when that isn't enough I get out my torch.

I've only owned 2 jeeps, a 1990 XJ and my 2010 JK. The XJ had very little rust under it [except for the trailer hitch/receiver] but not so with my JK. I've already sanded and painted under it and need to do so again. For the most part the only offroading my jeep does is on my mountain driveway...

My son recently bought the Harbor Freight version of that bleeder - it didn't hold up too well, the pump was the weak link.