Search results

Fuel pumps can last a long time so it's a good bet it still has the factory pump. It's been a while since I've heard a failing pump but it's kind of a whirring sound, most notable at an idle.

I've never used a mig but have been told they are a lot easier to use than a stick welder. I bought my first stick welder [buzz box] from Harbor Freight and Salvage about 40 yrs ago for $75. I learned enough with it to warrant buying a 240 volt stick welder. I know a few diyers that have HF...

I managed to replace the fuel pump on my 1990 XJ without removing the tank. I used whatever autozone sells with a lifetime warranty. It worked well for the next 5 yrs when I sold it and got a JK.

HF welders aren't great but it's not a bad deal if you don't know whether or not you want to do welding. I learned on a cheap HF stick welder [still learning] Happy Birthday Terry! if I boycott my birthdays will the numbers quit adding up :rolleyes:

I can't read that with out remembering and have a chuckle. A friend of mine's wife is very conservative. When asked what she did over the weekend she replied 'rode around the mountain topless' Of course that got some wide eye looks from her non jeeper friends. now back to your regular...

Shouldn't be.

When a clutch is slipping the engine speed will accelerate but the vehicle will not - at least not as much as the engine speed does.

When I replaced the fuel pump on my 1990 Cherokee I didn't need to drop the tank. It was a little awkward and tight but it beat dropping the tank.

That trolley jack looks just like mine. I bought it from Harbor Freight and Salvage over 40 yrs ago. My son who was 2 at the time removed the plate [and lost the screws] right after I bought it.

y'all making me feel old :p

I've never understood the desire for a low rider except on a race track. Over the yrs I've seen several stuck on speed bumps. The craziest low rider I've seen was a early 70s model chevy blazer.

UV rays are hard on paint and clear coat. That's why you see the tops of vehicles [hood,roof] have the paint fail first. It will need to be sanded down smooth, possibly primed, wet sanded and then spray the finish.

My 2010 JK is my 2nd jeep [bought new] and I'm convinced that Chrysler uses the cheapest parts possible when they assemble the jeeps. I had to replace the rear break pads before 50k, and 3 calipers before 65k. Skid plates need to be removed, rust ground down and primed/painted. Even so, I doubt...

oops, that was a typo,I change the oil every 3,500 miles

My 2010 JK has been using oil since around 60k. Not a lot but sometimes needs a quart between changes. It's been well maintained with regular oil changes at 35k intervals. IMO it's a lack of quality control at Chrysler.

A locked front diff results in 'trouble' turning especially with tight turns. You'll get a slight hopping like sensation in tight turns.

Is the bushing completely on? I had to replace the ones on both sides of my transfer case cable. On the one I had to replace twice I believe it wore out because it wasn't completely seated. I agree it would be nice if they were made of brass or some more durable material.

Safety should always be in the forefront of our mind but it's easy to get complacent. Glad you weren't seriously hurt!

The driver's seat was probably worn out and the only decent seat he had access to was another passenger seat. Over the yrs I've installed seats from different makes [not into a jeep though] Most required minor modifications. Measure the mounting brackets on your seat and compare it to the one at...

I've never had any issues bleeding ABS brakes the old fashion way .... maybe I've just been lucky.