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Johnny: I think there is some confusion here with Bounty. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think by "under load" you're referring to going up-hill, in-gear. Not just "starting the engine" I've had to do it a few times in nasty situations where I didn't have enough feet and couldn't roll back...

I agree with Bounty. Start-up current or "lock-rotor" current happens for only a cycle or two at the most. The "continuous duty" rating is what you need to be concerned about. I wire motors all the time at (electrician) that have a higher full load amperages (F.L.A.) than the...

New tunes for the TJ - I got BASS!

4Lo.com :: Gear Ratio & Tire Size Chart

Check at the local tractor supply store, or your local hardware store. They, are in fact, standard threads and can easily be worked to suite your needs. I might suggest new steel/cast fittings rather than the stock brass ones.

Ok...found it....here's the catfight: http://www.jeepz.com/forum/cj-yj-tj-jk/28479-4-lo-problems.html Bounty Hunter: :pray:

I went through this with Bounty Hunter a while back. I too didn't see how a lift would change the shifter adjustment, let alone the height going up. The TJ's 4WD shifter has a bracket that attaches to the tub. Yes, I too was blown away. Why have a bracket connecting two different things, that...

Did you use teflon tape?

What is the difference in the one for the power line vs. the one for the ground line? Just curious as to which one I have, and if I used it right. I just assumed mine was supposed to be on the power side.

I had the same problem with a c.b. a few years ago. The power wire was picking up "static" from the engine electronics and spark plug wires. You would hear the "static" rev up and down with the engine rpms. My brother-in-law gave me a filter (he called it a choke) and I installed it in series...

He's right...too much shackle lift, and you'll be asking for trouble with your castor angles and so on. This can be corrected with degree shims, but in the long run, is not the best system. If it's a trail-only beater rig, put them on and run the poo out of it. If you plan on roading it, it's...

I'm an electrician....wires don't "get bent too far". They either get scraped and shorted, or overload and overheated. One 40 amp. relay (common, off the shelf part) is plenty....keep it simple.

Thanks Steely...I typed it both ways several times and neither looked right ......so I pick one and ran with it! Either way it was better than "that thingy that has the "o-sh*t" handle on it". :beer:

By the way, you might check a hardware store first for the grommets, and work the job according to what is available locally rather than ordering on-line, although I can't see shipping being much at all for a couple of them.

You can buy "waterproof" grommets that fit inside a drilled hole and secure the wire. Rubber Grommets from The Rubber Group If sized correctly, you "should" have no leaks. They make for a good, clean install but I think I would maybe put a dab of black RTV when threading the wire in just in...

Raven: about 2 yrs. old, we think she's a Labradoodle, got her from the pound. She's an awesome dog. This is Sydney (Sid) He's a registered Schnauzer. Getting a little age on him now, but Raven keeps him moving and playing. This is Gus.....got rid of the rest of the litter.....but yet he...

I agree with SteelHeadz, throw an electric fuel pump on it. I put one on the Willy's and left the mechanical one on the block. Primes with a turn of the key now without any prolonged cranking. Best money I spent on the thing I think. Also I figure if one goes out, the other will get me home...

Put some shoes on Phil. :mrgreen:

For a family ride, I would go for one with square headlights. For a mild trail rig, one with square headlights should do fine. If you looking for a trailer-queen, strictly off-road-rig, one with square headlights should work best.