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Mine seems to have a little jump when it changes gears. Rear tire has a small chunk out that makes a thump, thump sound at high speeds. Dealer is typical.....greatest person on earth.....until you purchase. Then, "who is this calling"? Did not have floor mats when I bought. Called back to see...

Has anyone purchased one of the new 2015 Renegade SUV? I did and like it a lot. Got the basic model Sport and love the ride, roominess (of course it is bigger for me from a 2012 Mini Cooper) and power the 1.4 liter engine has. Two things it doesn't have is a spare tire (of any kind) just a can...

Thanks. I feel better now. Not as dumb as I felt.

I wanted to replace the factory speakers in my 1989 Wrangler YJ as the old ones were dry rotted and unusable. I got my Haines Jeep Manual out and read that you "reach" up and around the right side and unscrew the nuts holding it on and then unplug. Doable after about an hour of trying to figure...

i decided to bleed the brakes again and that seems to work this time, so thanks again for all the replies.

Thanks a lot for all the advice. Will try these things tomorrow and will post which one it was.

I hate to show my limited knowledge, but you guys seem to know your stuff and I guess I'll not learn unless I ask. Do I have to jack up the Jeep to bleed the brakes? I can get under because of the height, easily. Thanks.

No. That is what is confusing. There is no drop in fluid level. No wet spots around any of the bleeder valves. No leaks from fittings. What I noticed today is that if I pump the brakes I can hear an air sound from under the brake pedal area. Do you think some part of the booster is leaking from...

I did try to bleed the brakes, but it didn't help. Would the booster be the next thing to replace? Is there a way to test the booster? Also, has anyone used the "Speed Bleeders" for bleeding the brakes? It looks too good to be true.

Do I need to replace the brake booster if, when I press the brake pedal, it goes almost to the floor, but if I pump it 3 or 4 times it builds up? Not good for a quick stop if someone pulls out in front of me.

Totally go with the Weber carb. I got rid of the spaghetti looking mess of vacuum lines and my 89 starts like its a new car! Cost about $300 but worth that in less frustration and knowing it will start every time. Better gas mileage to boot.

Your main problem is having a Carter carb on it. I had the same thing happen to mine and bought the Motorcraft 2100 carb and put it on. Started the first time and each time. Got rid of most of those excess vacuum lines also and can actually see the motor now. :mrgreen:

I guess Obama was too busy organizing cities to think about driving!:lol:

I am answering my own letter. I finally got a friend of my son's that is good at this sort of thing and I watched him put the carb on today. It was as I thought and a little more confusing for the novice mechanic like myself, but when it was on and done it was amazing at how much better it ran...

I finally purchased a rebuilt 2100 Motorcraft from the guy in California on E-Bay? It has all the detailed instructions on how to do it and it is simple for me until I get to the types of vacuum. Has anyone out there purchased and installed this setup? Am I panicking for no reason? Great...

I have a 1989 Jeep Wrangler with the typical crappy Carter carb. I've read all the recommendations to replace it with a Motorcraft 2100, but my local parts store doesn't list one to purchase. Where do I get one? Thanks. Mike.:?|