Clutch pedal vibrations

Hi all just wondering if anyone has any insight on my clutch pedal vibration. I have a 2016 Jeep rubicon and just recently started getting engine vibrations in my clutch pedal. I took it to the dealer ship as they told me it’s from my front drive shaft as it is starting to fail. The only issue I have with this is that I’m getting the vibrations while in park and not moving as I rev the engine between 1700-2500 rpms. Sooo defiantly not the drive shaft. I also had my t-case replace about a month ago and noticed these vibrations after that was replaced. Does anyone have any ideas what might be causing this to happen??? Any ideas would help. Thanks guys.


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Welcome to Jeepz.com.
What happened that caused the tcase to be replaced?

Also, you mentioned clutch pedal vibrations when in park. Is this a manual or automatic? Assuming it's a manual, do you get the vibration when you're in neutral with the clutch out, as well as in gear with the clutch in?

Is the dealer saying that you need new joints in your driveshaft? I'm not sure that's the problem, but it could still be a problem.

I will try while I’m in neutral and I will get back to you. Yes it is a manual. My cv joint in the front started throwing grease so I know it’s a matter of time before she goes. The input shaft had a score on it and I kept going through input shaft seals before they just replaced the whole t-case and now I have no more leaks just this stupid vibration.


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So yes while I’m in neutral it does it with the clutch out !!!!


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Engine off and parking brake on. Crawl under and twist the driveshaft by hand. Look for any play in the U-joints. Any play they are bad.
Is it possible they put in a different transmission spacer? Any skid plate spacer? Bad angles vibration.

Any lift?


Regards,
JPNinPA

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Possibly bad throw out bearing??? I’m thinking if I end up pulling the transmission to replace the throw out bearing I might as well redo the entire clutch assembly while I have it all apart???


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Might it also be my master or slave cylinders?


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If you know the CV joints are bad then I'd start there. That has to be fixed so I'd go ahead and do it. JPNinPA also brings up some good questions.

Slipping clutch does not feel like vibrations of a bad U joint.
My throw out bearing is going but it is just noisy no vibration feeling.

If it's not broken don't fix it.
JPNinPA
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Thanks for the PM. I'll respond here so others who have this issue might find the same conclusion we do. Or at learn from our mistakes

So the vibration happens when not moving, parking brake on engine running in neutral.
Does it still occurs when pressing the clutch in?

With the transfer case replacement did they do anything to the clutch or pressure plate?
On the TJs the pressure plate is concave and could only be sanded. If it was machined flat the clutch would shutter and skip. For TJs Luke clutches were good replacements. Be sure to get a brass throw out bearing.

For the 3.5 in lift you are at the point for needing something to keep the driveshafts from being a vibrating problem. Unless the 3.5 is 2 in suspension and 1.5 body...? Once above 2.5-3 in suspension the drive shafts may start to bind and vibrate. Correcting the angles with spacers at the transmission or engine mount lifts or rewelding spring perches ... Will alleviate the vibes.
Many run stock drive shafts if not 4 wheeling. If you plan on wheeling you might consider a slip yolk eliminator. There are shops out there that can lengthen and balance the drive shaft or you could buy new like Tom woods DS .
Also FYI even when not in 4wd the entire drive train Is spinning.
All axels and drive shafts. They are just not all engaged to the engine and trans when in 2hi. Because of this a bad front u joint or axle joint may cause vibrations.

Regards,
JPNinPA

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Hey thanks for the reply JPNinPA. So when I have the e-brake on and in neutral I can feel a slight vibration in the clutch pedal when I start to rev any point higher than idle I can feel it all the way through the clutch pedal but when the pedal is to the floor I don’t feel it any more but that ONLY when the pedal is to the floor, right when I start releasing the pedal I can feel the vibrations the rest of the way to full release. I’m not 100% certain what the stealership did when they replaced the t-case but I did ask if they dropped the transmission to check on my rear seal as I thought it might be sweating. I was told they did not drop the transmission and that my oil pan was the cause of my concern. Soooo they rtv’d my oil pan but today when I crawled underneath the Jeep I decided to take a peak in the breather holes on the bottom of the bell housing to see if I could notice any kind of wobble in the flywheel and nothing. But to my surprise I did notice a bunch of rtv inside that breather hole. Nothing on the flywheel itself tho. Not sure if that has anything to do with it. I checked the motor mounts and transmission mount and they seem in good shape I could not move the transmission. I also gave my slave cylinder a couple of light taps with a rubber mallet and noticed that the vibrations weren’t nearly as bad but still there. It felt a lot better tho??? I guess we will see tomorrow how she drives when I head to work in the morning. I am going to purchase a JE REEL front shaft very soon. I’ve read some good reviews on JE REEL any other suggestions are appreciated. So that’s where I’m at right now.


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So I've been paying more attention to my jeep. 05 TJ unlimited and I yes my shifter vibrates at idle but reduces at higher rpm. The pedal. If it vibrates any I can't tell. Same in my old f150



JPNinPA
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K so after tapping my slave with the rubber mallet yesterday Jeep seems to be running fine now...... very small amount of vibration in the pedal and shifter almost not noticeable now. I think I got it!!!!!!! We will see how she is in the next few days I guess but for now I’m super happy!!!!!! So worst come to worst I will buy a new master/slave assembly and put it in if it acts up again. Woooohoooo


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I really hope this helps someone else out there with the same symptoms that I have been experiencing I know how frustrating it is.


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Try bleeding it first.


JPNinPA
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K cool will try that thanks again for the input everyone greatly appreciated


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Also u joints are much cheaper then full drive shafts.
If you are going to buy first make sure you get it custom length.

And first fix your angles as much as possible. Or you will be buying another expensive shaft or joints.

JPNinPA
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Have you gotten this sorted out?


JPNinPA
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So new front drive shaft (1350 tom woods) vibration still there ever so slightly took it to the dealer again they say it’s normal so I’m just living with it.


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Check your driveshaft angles.


Regards,
JPNinPA

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