4.0L swap: What am I in for?

whatch out that the DJ5 doesn't have the 232. not the 258. Although i'm not sure if the cranks are different or not..
 
Is there any way to tell the 258 apart from the 232? Oh, and I'm set for the transmission...I just bought an nv3550 with 2,000 miles on it out of an '04 wrangler for $660. It's a bit more than I would have liked to spend, but it's still cheaper than buying a remanufactured ax-15...both trannies are hard to come by in the junkyards around here. Oh and it looks like I have the peugeot...
 

I think the only way to tell a 258 from a 232 is the stroke length. You might also be able to tell from the block casting number.
 
3 Link Rear Suspension?

As for identifying the engines as 232 or 258, the block casting numbers are 3227445 on one and 3224098 on the other, which both are 258 casting numbers. However, the serial numbers have an "E" in them, which are often associated with 232 engines according to what I have read online. Is there any other way to tell other than by measuring the stroke?
 
there may be a way to hook up something to a spark plug hole to see how much air is displaced upon compression
 

RE: 1996 Honda Civic in Northeasten Ohio

I don't know if this is correct or not, as I have no experience with 232s other than the fact that that my CJ came factory with a 1 barrel 232, but here is some info copied from another source:

The 232 can be identified by the 4th character of the engine build date code, stamped into the side of the engine block between and below the number 2 and 3 spark plugs. Early (Rambler) 232s have a "K" or "L" code (7.5:1 and 8.5:1 compression ratios respectively). Later (AMC) 232s have an "E" or an "F" (8.5:1 and 7.7:1 compression ratios respectively). All other codes (A, B, C and M) are used for 258 engines.
 
I would have to verify that "E" was printed on 232's. I pulled the head on the less complete and much more rusty engine and measured the stroke at about 3.5", whereas a 258's stroke is closer to 3.9". I'll have to keep poking around at pick n pull for AMC 258's. Hopefully I'll be able to find one with a serpentine belt drive. If all else fails I can use the crank and rods out of my jeep's original 258...I was just hoping to not have to tear that engine down as it will be pretty much worthless if it's incomplete.
 
RE: Spare Tire Carrier ???

Also, what is the best way to hook up the clutch linkage on my new transmission? Should I convert to hydrolic, and if so, how do I go about doing that?
 

Apparently it is cheaper here to buy a remanufactured crank with bearings than it is to have one ground. I think I'll end up buying a remanufacutured crank from Kragens and try to hunt down some connecting rods. Does anyone know if I can use the rods out of the 232 I tore apart?
 
RE: Rolling again

I have alot of stroker building/engine rebuilding questions that I think I'll ask on another thread. Thanks for all the help.
 
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