Installing a Warn winch mounting kit no. 143910

[Turbogus]

URRRRRGH~!:x
Preparing for mounting up a winch to Black Betty, my '78 CJ got a Warn kit no. 13910, only to find this old Renegade has no pass through hole for the aft part of the frame extention. So what do I do? Drill a hole through the other side of the box frame? Wouldn't this compromise the integrity of the frame?

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2186/3527933931_fe4154d797.jpg?v=0

 

[Saddle Tramp]

The holes where there on my 78 CJ5 when I bought the jeep but the guy I got it from had a winch on it at one time. I'll have to go look at mine but if you are concerned about the integrity of the frame find some steel tubing that the inside diameter fits the bolts, drill the hole in the frame to fit the outside diameter of the tubing, cut to length, insert the tubs, weld around the tubes, grind, paint, and install the winch. I've never done it but it looks good on paper anyway.

 

[jps4jeep]

What he said. Drill the hole, but you need to sleeve the frame, if not, it will just crush the frame. No need for fancy dom or HREW tubing, some good old welded seam tubing will work. in the past I have used spring shackle bushing sleeves, they are almost always a little larger than the frame and they are very dependable.

 

[Turbogus]

Right on, thanks guys! In another forum a regular member Mikey suggests just to drill the winch plate to match the holes in the crossmember and wha la.

 

[Turbogus]

Drat:sawzall: Turns out that I'll have to gambit a frame mount after all. Mounting the plate on the deck of the crossmember leaves inadequate room for a roller fairlead~especially with this bumper arrangement. Luckily, there were a pair of 7/8" spacers for supporting the mounting bolts so I've just got to accomplish drilling a straight pass through hole.

 

[Saddle Tramp]

There are cheapy drill guide set ups that will help you drill a straight hole. I have one that has a flat plate with the center removed and two legs with a cross member the drill chuck goes on. Start with the smallest drill bit you can that will pass completely through the width of the frame then work up to the larger hole. It is always easier to this way as there won't be as much friction and heat to burn up the bit. You do have to be carful as the bits get bigger the bit is more likely to catch the side of the hole and twist the drill; I have seen hand and wrists injuries from this happening.

 

[Turbogus]

:givemebeer:Well, I started with a 3/8 to pilot and moved up incramentally. What I found as to why I had to drill the frame in the first place is there was welded:welder: in place a box frame rail right over the inboard mounting hole 3/8" thick! Ultimately I had to use a 5/8 hole saw to overcome this double surface frame and patch. Sure enough there was some counter torquing occasionally when the drill bit caught an edge but using hammer drills on high aggregate gunite prepared me for this. :twisted: While I may have burned up the bearing on my 1/2" drill I punched through. This patch plate is thick enough though, I've got to run to Fastenal and get a longer bolt. Now I've just got to contend with torquing the left side under the steering box, haven't figured out how to get a socket on the inner nut for the 150 ft/lbs it needs, going to have to get creative I suppose.
Overall, the extra time it took left me opportunity to scan for the winch I'm going to purchase. Given the comments herein and elsewhere I'm leaning for a 4 1/2 ton Superwinch

 

[Turbogus]

Was reading an article in JP magazine about the drill doing the twist on larger conventional bits~they went on to say using a chamfering bit will eliminate the sudden grabbing syndrome.

 

[SteelHeadz]

An air drill doesn't twist when the drill bit bites the steel. It's safer to use.

 

[Turbogus]

Excellent tip for those that are so equipped Well with all my kazooks tied up in the rebuilt 44 last year and now the winch it'll be a while before I can even begin to consider a compressor/tank.