I found this on another website -
http://www.442.com/oldsfaq/ofall.htm#ALL Starting a Stored Vehicle
It may work for you!
Starting a Stored Vehicle
Stored for a Short Amount of Time
Taking a car out of storage is, as the saying goes, the reverse of putting it into storage, if you preped it for storage.
Inspect all linkages, belts, hoses, clamps, etc.
Have a fresh battery (replete with clean terminals)
Check and top off all fluids.
Change the motor oil to get rid of accumulated condensation and acids.
A fuel filter change in springtime once you've used the last of the preserved fuel is probably a good idea.
Pull the spark plugs and inspect/clean/replace.
Pull the distributor cap and clean the contact points. See if there are **** (metal transfer) on the points. This is an indication of worn out points. Then file, or replace/check the point gap too. Then double check the point gap, just for luck. A dwell adjustment might also be in order.
For HEI vehicles, make sure the pickup coil wires are not broken, and that a module is present. Inspect the coil button (inside top of cap). Check and clean the distributor cap terminals.
Check to see that mice or other critters haven't built nests in the air cleaner or exhaust system.
Add a few gallons of fresh gas in tank. A can of Heat gas dryer may be a good idea if the area is conducive to condensation.
Pour about ½ to 1 cup of gas down the vent hole (NOT DIRECTLY DOWN THE CARB). This will fill the bowl only.
Step on "loud pedal" 3-5 times quickly. Wait 30 secs. Turn the motor over 3-4 times while pumping and stop. It won't start first time, trust me. Wait 30 seconds and do again. It should at least spit now. After it starts, keep it going but do not race it.
Check all systems in non-moving mode once I start the car and get things up to temp.
Then gingerly move out of the garage to ensure that the brakes, transmission, etc. have survived the winter.
When you get it out on the road drive, slow for a bit, and gradually increase speed as everything loosens up.
Run the car long enough to get it hot, and change the oil and filter.
Stored for a Long Amount of Time
Note: For improperly stored vehicles (those stored more than a year or two) or for a very thorough check, follow this and the short term section.
First, check the oil level to make sure there's something there. If there is, it's likely some kind of black sludge. If there's not enough, add some until there is. Next, throw a battery in it and see if it will turn over. Don't try and start it (and in fact, disconnect the coil wire in case it tries to be helpful, and actually starts), just see if it turns over. If it turns over, stop and change the oil and filter. Make sure you drain it completely. Undoubtedly, there will be a ton of thick stuff in the bottom of your oil pan. Your best bet would be to drop the pan, clean it, and re-install it. Might be a good idea to install a new oil pump at this time also.
Your best bet is frequent oil changes. After my initial change, I changed it again at 500 miles, 1,000 miles, 1,500 miles, then 2,000 miles. That's just to clean out the gunk.
Plan on making these oil changes no matter what; at least two, 500 miles apart. Fresh oil will bring out an impressive amount of sludge the first time through, making the second change a necessity. If that oil goes black real quick, change it again. Consider that each change costs you maybe the price of a case of beer (depending on your brand), which is pretty cheap engine insurance.
I also add a can of Engine Restorer (some sort of oil additive that supposedly removes varnish and restores compression). Though some people are of the opinion that oil additives do more harm than good, I'm not sure that the crankcase flush is in the same category as these additives. It's pretty much solvent to thin the old oil and (theoretically) dissolve sludge. The "miracle additives" however, such as Slick-50, are more concerned with allegedly treating metal surfaces, etc. Your interest at this point is purely in sludge removal.
Make sure you check the other fluids (cooling, brake, transmission, etc.). You'll definitely want some fresh gas. You'd probably be wise to install a new fuel filter. It wouldn't be a bad idea to install an in-line fuel filter somewhere between your gas tank and fuel pump, unless you want to clog up your fuel pump with debris from the tank. I'd recommend checking both filters after your first tank or two of clean gas.
Change the transmission filter, and flush all the old fluid out. This makes an incredible difference, and it will extend the life of the transmission like nothing else.
Check the U-joints, and all the other driveline components. Change the transmission fluid and clean the pan. Changing the seals is a good idea too, but that can wait.
I think that it's safe to say that something is going to break/leak/burst/fall-off/catch-fire/have-I-missed-anything the first time the car starts; then the first time the car moves; then the first time the car goes on a trip, etc. Accept this before you start, and it will be a lot less painful later.
After you get the engine running, replace the spark plugs, wires, distributor cap/points/etc. Then break out the timing light. You should also check the fluid in the rear end.
Even if you drop the gas tank and clean it out, there will probably be lingering debris that will detach throughout the first few weeks of use. I would run your tanks down as low as you dare to clean out all the stuff that settles to the bottom. I would also, for the first few tanks, add some fuel additives. Pick the ones that clean your carb injectors, reduce valve-ping, etc.
This should get you going for a while, but sooner or later (probably sooner), you'll most likely have to change the gaskets/seals in your engine and transmission, as they've probably dried and shrunk, and will have begun leaking profusely. I don't recommend using additives that supposedly restore those leaky seals, because they only work temporarily, and they probably just gum things up. It's also a given that you car will need rebuilt. One day you might pop the hood and find a big puddle of bubbling gas on your manifold; or worse yet, a raging fire!
Other things may start to go out before long: water pump, brakes, etc. If your master brake cylinder was too far below the fill level, you'll probably have to rebuild that one or get a rebuilt one. If you're going to keep the car original, I'd rebuild the original one, because the new rebuilt ones, probably won't look the same.
At any rate, you've got a lot of work ahead of you if you want to avoid a major overhaul in the near future. But believe me, it's a lot cheaper to do all this stuff than to have an engine overhauled. That, and most of it will have to be done anyway! If you're engine still turns over, you should be in good shape. I've been driving my car for three years since I finished doing all that, and haven't had a single problem since.
P.S. - I also recommend thoroughly back-flushing the cooling system. If there has been any liquid in it for a number of years, it's gonna be severely corroded. Check your thermostat at the same time, and replace if necessary. Check the thermostat by dropping it into boiling water and see if it opens up.
[ Thanks to Greg Kalkhoff, Andy Green, Blaine Sanders, Bob Barry for this information ]
