Need a new exhaust....

[Joopin]

I have been looking at the Banks Power exhaust for some time now, and I can get the complete system (header to tailpipe) delivered to my door for $750. I thought that was still kind of pricey, so today I went to Mienikie to get a quote. They wanted 350 for the cat back, labor and parts, and 450 to install a new header... and I have to go buy a header on top of that price! They said the 450 in labor is because it is such a process to take it out and put in a new one.

The guy also said he could save me some money by welding the manifold cracks if they aren't too big.

Sorry this is taking so long to get to my point...

So, it's either pay 750 minimum for: an original welded manifold, and a steel cat back... with a 5 yr. on cat and lifetime on muffler.

OR it's pay 750 for a Banks Power exhaust (thats everything but the cat and o2 sensor) and put it in myself... with a lifetime warrantee.

So my questions are,

1. Which choice should I go with?

2. If I were to install the Banks header myself, is it REALLY that difficult?

I have read up on it a little, to take out the manifold you also have to take out the power steering pump, fuel rail, belt, and intake manifold.
Has anyone done this so they can give me some reassurance?

I am no stranger to working on vehicles, but my bank account is getting lower now that I almost have my mustang done (again). But if I don't fix this exhaust on my jeep I wont be around for long since I'll be breathing in carbon monoxide in an enclosed jeep this winter!!

Thanks for reading...
Joop

 

[redrooster]

Well, what is the actual problem? Just cracks in the manifold?
My 93 Grand developed the same notorious cracks, I just took it off and had it welded back up. No problems after that. They charged me about $40 to weld it and I did the removal and install myself. It takes a little while to get everything out of the way and get the manifold unbolted, but it's really pretty simple. I used a 3/8" air ratchet to speed things up a bit and had no problems. As I recall, I had to remover the air filter box, the plastic to the throttle body, unhook a couple of sensors and remover the intake with the exhaust manifold. I believe you are correect about the power steering, but the fuel rai should come off with the intake. Correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't the intake share some bolts. I remember they were partially integrated in some fashion. Either way it nothing for a high stepper. definitley not worth $750 or $450 for that matter.
If you want the header just choose which one and replace it yourself. Just make sure that they don't require any exhaust mods in the swap and you can get it done in an afternoon.

 

[Joopin]

Yeah sorry, I forgot to mention that my WHOLE EXHAUST is Garbage! O2 sensor broken off, cat is dangling in the wind, and the muffler is lucky to see any flow through it at all. There are holes all the way down the exhaust and it is finished off with the coat hanger special tailpipe.

So basically there is no salvagable part to this exhaust, MAYBE the header, I could weld it myself probably. But if I'm taking it out, I most likely will replace it with something better.

What year was the jeep you did that too rooster?

 

[currupt4130]

pre load

id buy the cat back system and headers and do it yourself. if you can do an soa joop, you can do this, i did my headers and it wasnt a big deal, just move some crap outa the way and unbolt the manifolds, two pair hands is a good idea. one pair for putting the headers up from underneath or holding it in place. and the other for tightening and positioning. its not a major deal and you can clamp everything off and get them to weld it for not much at all

 

[Joopin]

Alright, that's what I needed to hear currupt... I'll just have to set aside a weekend to do this project before it gets too cold out.

Oh and one more thing, I was reading my Chiltons manual and it said when replacing the fuel rail that you have to put in new Injector Rings, or something like that. I have never done anything with a fuel injection system so I don't really know what to expect in that part of the project.

 

[Junkpile]

Drum brake shoe wear

Joopin, there is no doubt that Banks makes some nice stuff. That being said....that's ALOT of money for 409 SS. For a little more money you could go with 304 like Borla uses, if you are going with stainless. Installing headers on a non-crossflow inline engine can be an exercise in how to deal with extreme frustration, but it isn't hard. May take some time, and lots of cussing.....but it isn't hard.

You could buy a muffler, some pieces of straight tubing, and some pre-bent elbows, then cut and weld the exhaust yourself. Takes more work, but it's alot cheaper and you can run it however you want.

 

[Joopin]

Junkpile, believe me, I did consider making my own exhaust. The thing that is stopping me is that I dont' have a pipe bender. If I did I would just go buy a crap load of stainless straights and go to town. Do they sell stainless elbows and bends anywhere? What's better about 304 than 409?

 

[Junkpile]

Either grade is better than mild from a corrosion standpoint. 304 and 409 are in two different families of SS. 304 is austenitic and 409 is ferritic. The difference is the makeup of the alloy. 304 contains nickel and chromium. 409 has no nickel and instead has larger concentrations of chromium.
Austenitic grades are easier to fabricate, less corroding, stronger at higher temperatures, less crack prone, and they are also nonmagnetic.

409 is cheaper to buy, that's why so many exhaust manufacturers use it. It's just an exhaust, afterall. My point is that if you are going to pay the money to have SS, go ahead and spend a few more buckaroos and get the material that has all of the characteristics that made you decide on SS to begin with.

Jegs and Summit both sell prebent SS elbows, but I've never bought from them. I've got a buddy that does exhaust work and keeps a supply of mandrel bent elbows on hand for customers who specify that, I just go buy from him. But I don't use SS for the exhaust pipe. I LOVE stainless steel, but I just don't see the need on an exhaust that will be beaten around on the trail and subjected to being dunked in icy cold water while it's hot. I'd be pissed if a driveshaft let go and took out my high dollar pretty silver exhaust pipe.

 

[88Wrangles]

Do they sell stainless elbows and bends anywhere?

Around here, almost all the muffler/exhaust shops carry pre-bent stainless pipe. I've never actually bought any from them, so I can't help you on the price. They also sell straight pieces of pipes and everything else you could want.

 

[Joopin]

Well the reason I want to buy stainless is not because it's "silver and pretty" I want to do this project once and have a decent upgrade as well. Also I was under the impression (I may be wrong) that stainless is not prone to crack when hot metal meets cold water.

I did find the stainless bends in Summit Racing (thanks) and I just have to find out if I can get stainless wire for the welders here at work. I am also wondering if I can still use the same gas on stainless as regular steel. I do have to remedy this problem quickly since it is now cold out in the morning and I don't feel like sticking my head out the window to keep from breathing fumes on the way to work.

 

[Junkpile]

No, I wasn't implying that "silver and pretty" was a bad thing......I dig silver and pretty. A SS header can't be beat. Ceramic and nickel coatings have their advantages as far as heat containment goes, but they don't compare to SS in any other way. They charge way too much of a premium for SS headers, but they are sweet.


I don't really do much stainless with the mig, but when I do, I don't change gas. Just swap spools, set the machine, and go.